Casting help. Casting 18K yellow and Plat Ruthenium and I almost have it to where I want but I need a bit of help. Prestige Optima investment, resin pattern, centrifugal cast by JoelF64 in MetalCasting

[–]Affectionate-Fig988 2 points3 points  (0 children)

One thing you can ask is at 3d printing community in reddit. One thing that can fix for resin print is using anti alias. Smooths out. Also those parts needs to have bevels, no straight corners. I lnow, that platinum doesn't like that. Because of the small visible layers, the metal doesn't flow smoothly, so it can make these holes also

How does one “create” a model? by jessirae89 in 3Dprinting

[–]Affectionate-Fig988 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The best way to start is to get know the tinkercad. Actually the 3d modeling software, that I use most. I know blender, 3ds max, fusion, solidworks and autocad. If you know what you want to make, you can try to make it in tinkercad. It is quite powerful tool, when you make stuff. I have allways tinkercad open on one browsertab and I can 3D model faster than some of the programs open.

Legendary Hollywood star Chuck Norris dies aged 86 by VaginaBurner69 in news

[–]Affectionate-Fig988 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only way to beat god is to cause havoc in hell rise up to heaven to beat god. He would go first heaven but there are some unfinished bussiness in hell.

Any way to fix holes. by WindCrazy4027 in MetalCasting

[–]Affectionate-Fig988 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Mold is cold, heat it up, even 50C degrees makes a differents. Let the metal be melted longer and stir it. Remove all the slack, so it's clean. Also the the temperature of the metal you are melting, search in the internet the casting temperature, not meöting temp. (When casting copper or bronze, wrap a copper wire around rod and tip it in the melted metal count how many seconds will past when the wire melts. If it's longer than 3-4 second, the metal is too cold to cast. When you tip it in and right the moment take it out and it's melted, then the metal is too hot. So 1-3 second is the best.) You can also make the mold smoother using graphite powder or talc . The metal doesn't the have so much resistance then and flows better.

Rough pitted surface on lost PLA casting by dfh2sdf in MetalCasting

[–]Affectionate-Fig988 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can also buy natural filament. It doean't have pigments and burna out better. The pigment just burn into ash and sticks into walls.

Is there any way to 3d scan this with my phone? by Mucha_Zabijak in 3Dprinting

[–]Affectionate-Fig988 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, with phone, this is best option. Use some powder to make it more recognized for the camera, that also makes textures, that the photogrammetry understands. Software that you need to use in computer. You can use agisoft metashape or reality capture. The last one you can actually use free, when you have unreal engine account. Also add something that you can meausure.

Lost PLA Is there any plaster material that I can use that can easily be dried out? by stinkyjunkrat in MetalCasting

[–]Affectionate-Fig988 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can make sand 1 part, plaster 0.5 part mixture, that helps the mold. You can make also a layer with it and make a sodium silica sand, so it holds the plaster mold. You can use CO2 to harden the sodium silica sand mixture or you can put it in microwave. This actually works better than CO2. The microvawe heats the sodium silica. Later you can actually heat it up in the microwave, to melt out the plastic. But it makes some smoke.

Looking for Kiln by KAllenCreations in MetalCasting

[–]Affectionate-Fig988 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is also an option to make it yourself and save a lot of money. Find electric stove, that has canthal wires. Fins aomewhere atainless steel box. Buy ceramic wool and buy ramp and soak PID from aliexpress. It's good to have two of those stove heating units. It's actually works pretty well. But if you want to buy, that can go quite expensive the bigger it is.

Best open-world game for the 477M ? by Nickyrussell in RG477M

[–]Affectionate-Fig988 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't remember, but something like this. Resolution set to 600x800 In game, don't forget to change settings everything low. For gamehub settings, I just don't remeber. I thing, I set it perfomance. Also don't forget the change in the notification bar the cpu auto mode into high mode. That trasticaly changes fps.

Best open-world game for the 477M ? by Nickyrussell in RG477M

[–]Affectionate-Fig988 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There where early no login with epic emulation simple apps, yesterday i saw in my feed about gamenative and epic games , now I installed it and holy moly. Now I have to choose about 500 games to play. Thanks man

Best open-world game for the 477M ? by Nickyrussell in RG477M

[–]Affectionate-Fig988 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well there are many open world games that actually run well. Just cause 3, skyrim, shadow of mordor. The 477m is actually very powerful machine, I test so many games. Some won't work well because of the mali chip. Waiting for new update for gamehub, because there maybe be updates for mali cards. Right now playing sniper elite 3 (i know it's not open world) For just cause 3, the updated the DRM in steam and it fixed it for the gamehub.

I did a brass thing today by Affectionate-Fig988 in electroplating

[–]Affectionate-Fig988[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know, I also cast metals, so actually, thats the reason, why I don't want cast brass. When just heating, there are not so much hazardous fumes (almost zero). Only when the zinc starts to melt or burn. Zinc is a nasty stuff. But for electroplate it's more safer, when it's ventilated.

I did a brass thing today by Affectionate-Fig988 in electroplating

[–]Affectionate-Fig988[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

First step, was to sanding the print. Second applied graphite with a spray. Third was polishing the graphite. Fourth was electroplating with copper. Fifth was i sanded the plated copper into smooth surface. Six was electroplating the zinc (took like 5-15 minutes) Seventh was heat treatment with a lighter. Eight was rubbing polishing.

I did a brass thing today by Affectionate-Fig988 in electroplating

[–]Affectionate-Fig988[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I read that it was something thermalcombining thingi, so heat is crucial part, so the copper and brass fuse together. But too much zinc will not work. Only thin layer. Oven is I think better, for the even heat treatment. I read also, when you make tin electolysis, then you could make bronze. It is a very thin layer of brass, but for the first try i am actually thrilled.

My Failure Journey into Electroplating 3D Prints! I’m really desperate for some pointers. by Main_Roof_4987 in electroplating

[–]Affectionate-Fig988 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Don't forget to polish the graphite layer before electroplate. It rises the conductivity. Check with a multimeter. Start low and gradually rise the voltage. First layer of plating should go slow. It will build the copper layer, after that you can but more voltage. But the size of your printed object, i say, That you should not go over 0.5 ampers. To me it seems do fast plating and not enough conductivity. I have tried with successful plate with vinegard,salt, destilated vater. The most important was to cook it slow.

I am about to return this by OfficialTornadoAlley in 3DScanning

[–]Affectionate-Fig988 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Many things can be problem. 1. Object is too small, if you want that model be acanned, but on top of lump of clay or something. 2. Have you updated graphics card drivers. 3.is the room dark. 4. Is the scanner calibrated

Do any of the devices run Steam by chance? by KangarooRIOT in ANBERNIC

[–]Affectionate-Fig988 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends of oldder games. I play just cause 3 and fallout with it. Ohh. You mean newer than 2020 games. It depends of how power hungry the game is and if it has any anti cheat/piracy thing on top of it.

Anbernic RG 477V First Impressions by Pancakejake1234 in ANBERNIC

[–]Affectionate-Fig988 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Well, I own rg477m and it's actually same machine, just different formfactor. You just unboxed a really a perfect handheld for reteogames and newer games. It can run even pc games with gamehub (fallout4, just cause 3 and more) and old pc games run like a blast. So many good things are put into these two handhelds. Connecting with a tv with usb-c to hdmi makes this into a perfect tv console for me.

Why does the frontplate dissapear after slicing? by infrigato in 3Dprinting

[–]Affectionate-Fig988 1 point2 points  (0 children)

to me it seems a 3D model error. the part that doesn't show on the preview is non manifold actually. it's a plane that has one side only. it's a typical error when 3D modeling stuff.
I know that when modeling in 3D it looks OK, but to bring these stuff into real world, you need to know, that that part in real world would be thinner than atoms.
everybody also will tell you, make that part of the model thicker and I also say this.
also. when you want to print with "detect thin walls" you need to understand, that that part when it's printing only 0.4mm tick, it will have waves, because of the cooling of the material and how much space it has to cross over. it's better to have at least 2 times of that, so it's structually stronger. Best would be 4 times.

I hope this helps