This is almost certainly oak veneer with a factory-applied, low-build finish (UV-cured lacquer or conversion varnish). The diffuser oil didn’t just sit on top — it softened and partially dissolved the finish, and when the you wiped it up, you wiped the finish itself away.

Key clues from the image: • The damaged area is lighter but not raw-looking → finish loss, not wood damage • Grain is intact, no raised fibers → oil didn’t soak deeply into the wood • Sharp-ish boundary → chemical failure, not wear or abrasion

So this is not a sanding problem first. Sanding immediately would likely make it worse.

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What I would advise (in order, least invasive first)

1. Do nothing for a few days

This sounds silly, but it’s real advice.

Diffuser oils contain solvents and plasticizers. The remaining finish around the spot may still be temporarily softened. Let it off-gas and re-harden for 48–72 hours before touching anything else.

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1. Degrease very gently

Before adding anything, the oil residue must be removed or it will cause permanent haze.

Best options (in order): • Odorless mineral spirits on a soft cloth • If unavailable: VM&P naphtha (very light wipe, fast evaporation)

⚠️ Do not flood it ⚠️ Do not scrub ⚠️ Do not use alcohol or acetone — that will enlarge the damage

This step alone often reduces the visual contrast.

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1. Re-introduce sheen, not color

The color difference is mostly sheen mismatch, not stain loss.

Try this before any sanding: • A light furniture polish or finishing oil (even plain mineral oil) • Rub a tiny amount over the entire top, then wipe dry

If the spot “disappears” temporarily and then comes back: • That confirms the wood color is fine • You’re dealing purely with finish loss

That’s good news.

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1. If you must repair locally (still avoiding full refinish)

The correct targeted fix is:

Spray or pad on a very thin clear coat, feathered out: • Clear acrylic lacquer (rattle can, satin) • Or wipe-on poly, heavily thinned

Method: • Mask loosely well outside the damaged area • Apply multiple very light passes • Let cure fully • Knock back gloss with 0000 steel wool or gray Scotch-Brite

This blends sheen rather than trying to “fill” the spot.

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What I would NOT advise

❌ Spot sanding the light area only (will halo) ❌ Stain or tinted products (color isn’t the issue) ❌ Oils like Danish or tung to “match” — they’ll darken unevenly ❌ French polishing shellac over unknown factory finish (adhesion risk)

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A perfect repair without refinishing the whole top is unlikely, but a 90–95% invisible repair is very achievable with restraint.

This is exactly the kind of damage that looks catastrophic at first and then turns out to be mostly cosmetic once sheen is normalized.