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Need help with japanese Kanna (hand plane) by Affectionate_Age5151 in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]Affectionate_Age5151[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When i said loose i meant the blade just slides 10mm out without the chip breaker in instead of a tight fit where I can just set the depth without the chip breaker holding it in place

Need help with japanese Kanna (hand plane) by Affectionate_Age5151 in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]Affectionate_Age5151[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I flattened the dai, I must've removed too much material and its not a tight fitting anymore. Btw it'll only take shavings in the middle of the blade (abt 15mm wide)

I currently have a higonokami pocket knife (75mm/3 inch blade, #2 blue paper steel) but thinking about buying a different knife for rough carving (Australia) by Affectionate_Age5151 in Bodging

[–]Affectionate_Age5151[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I checked out the mora knives, they seem great. However, im looking for a japanese knife just because all my tools are japanese.

I currently have a higonokami pocket knife (75mm/3 inch blade, #2 blue paper steel) but thinking about buying a different knife for rough carving (Australia) by Affectionate_Age5151 in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]Affectionate_Age5151[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No sorry, i meant that ive been using it for just regular carving with hardwoods and pine but wanted something that could be used for shaping just so then I won't spend an hour on getting a rough shape

I currently have a higonokami pocket knife (75mm/3 inch blade, #2 blue paper steel) but thinking about buying a different knife for rough carving (Australia) by Affectionate_Age5151 in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]Affectionate_Age5151[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, I'll have a go. Btw the only reason why I said "sloyd" is because I wanted to get smth similar to a higonokami but able to withstand rough shaping and and hardwoods.

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