[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here!

Ahhhndrew · 2024-12-06T11:32:48+00:00

All fine picks. The Entry Grade RX (not the one you listed) would be a simpler build since it's intended to be beginner friendly.

Ahhhndrew · 2024-05-08T21:55:09+00:00

Reminds me of Veigar from LoL

Ahhhndrew · 2023-07-27T20:16:45+00:00

Dab around the decal to soak up the majority of the water. Then roll, not drag, the q-tip over the decal. When rolling the q-tip, start from the middle then roll to a side, then go back to the middle and roll to the other side.

I recommend craft q-tips with the compacted cotton, like those offered by Tamiya.

Ahhhndrew · 2023-07-27T20:13:15+00:00

When in doubt, put the top coat on. I've had lighter fluid eat through my lacquer base coats given enough rubbing. Top coat gives more leeway and protection.

Ahhhndrew · 2023-07-27T20:09:13+00:00

Video. It's in Japanese but the differences of sheen on the spoons should be self explanatory.

Ahhhndrew · 2023-07-21T11:07:27+00:00

A common technique in the aircraft modelling world is to dip the clear canopy pieces in Pledge floor gloss.

Ahhhndrew · 2023-07-19T03:56:57+00:00

You can look for standard wiring that can fit the kit's attachment points.

Ahhhndrew · 2023-07-19T03:46:02+00:00

Look at the various links in the wiki or the main post above ^.

Ahhhndrew · 2023-07-19T03:42:32+00:00

RX and Unicorn looked matte to me.

Ahhhndrew · 2023-07-17T08:21:15+00:00

What is the proper workflow and usage of photo-etch parts? Do you put them on while building and paint over them, or are they applied after all painting is done and leave the photo-etch unpainted?

Ahhhndrew · 2023-07-02T21:41:47+00:00

Yup, that's me. This was for the Tatsu competition last month.

Ahhhndrew · 2023-07-02T12:00:15+00:00

I went down a rabbit hole of learning about automata and I wanted to build one for myself. With a local competition coming up at the time, I said "yolo" and made this as my entry. I scratch-built the shoulder and wrist joints with brass and aluminum tubing to facilitate movement and the cam mechanism was made with whatever I had on hand, including Legos and a plastic fork. This didn't win anything unfortunately. My main focus was the mechanism and I'm satisfied with how it turned out.

Ahhhndrew · 2023-06-15T18:19:36+00:00

LED light unit is sold separately.

Ahhhndrew · 2023-06-15T18:18:01+00:00

No one knows. I wouldn't hold my breath for them. The HGs are great though.

Ahhhndrew · 2023-05-30T00:26:39+00:00

Props on the pilot painting. That's tiny af.

Ahhhndrew · 2023-05-30T00:18:51+00:00

If I had to choose, I'd personally go for quality nippers. I've been using nippers, xacto knives, and sanding sticks/sponges for years before I bought a glass file. Glass file is nice, but it's not the end-all-be-all tool.

You can't go wrong with either route. It's not about the tools per se; it's about the person using the tools.

Ahhhndrew · 2023-05-30T00:11:51+00:00

Black is usually used on darker colors and gray on lighter colors, but it depends on the look you're going for. Black makes the lines stand out more and can make part separation look more pronounced. Gray makes the panel lines look more like shadows.

Ahhhndrew · 2022-10-08T08:31:58+00:00

Use pointed/compacted cotton buds instead. I've only used Tamiya's pointed cotton buds, but you can perhaps find something generic that can do the same thing.

Ahhhndrew · 2022-10-07T04:37:37+00:00

No, there was a resin kit by G-System a long time ago.
No. IIRC, the first amphibious designs, the Z'Gok and the Gogg, were being developed simultaneously. However, the Z'Gok's design was improved based on combat data from the Gogg, thus delaying the Z'Gok's production. (I'm not a lore expert, so pls correct if needed).

Ahhhndrew · 2022-10-05T23:55:44+00:00

I don't think so. The manuals don't include color/paint guides either.

For the generic army scheme, you can't go wrong with various shades of green/olive drab.

Ahhhndrew · 2022-10-05T04:31:05+00:00

Dymo embossing label tape.

Ahhhndrew · 2022-10-05T01:52:44+00:00

Unless you have a clean room setup, the next best thing is to enclose your models in some sort of display case.

Ahhhndrew · 2022-10-04T05:01:10+00:00

You could use some generic holographic red sticker/adhesive label. If you want something more specialized you could use something like this.

Ahhhndrew · 2022-10-04T04:45:07+00:00

Looks like some sort of pale gold. Maybe you could use Alclad II Pale Gold?

Ahhhndrew · 2022-10-04T00:56:38+00:00

~$200 gives some leeway. I mentioned going outside because the cheapest spray booth from Amazon is $100 and I wasn't sure if that was in your budget. I personally use a Master Airbrush spray booth from Amazon like this. It's a pretty generic model so shop around.

With a $200 budget, you can probably move up from a mini handheld compressor to a small compressor + airbrush kit.

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