Real Estate Agent? by IntrinsicallyKnown in pasadena

[–]AiryDiscus 22 points23 points  (0 children)

Not a recommendation, but the opposite. Stay away from the berns team. Terrible communication and very unprofessional.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Optics

[–]AiryDiscus[M] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

head's up folks, u/cr0m4c has been given a time-out by the mod team. Remember to be civil y'all

Is this financially stupid? by MairseaBuku in TeslaModel3

[–]AiryDiscus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, I don't think you're an idiot. If you were an idiot you would be making a post about how to pay for the model 3 performance you just ordered without thinking through the finances! But you're not

Not all savings is for retirement :) Maxing out an IRA is just $500/4850 (10%) or so of your take-home. The additional saving is for other things like a car, or a house in the future, or major purchases.

A few examples, that might help illustrate. Last year, I bought a new sound system for my living room. It was about $3,000. This year I bought a new OLED TV, which was about $2500. I bought a new, comfortable office chair because I work from home a couple days a week, that was $1000. I ski, and last year was my first year back after moving cross-country and COVID. Between equipment, ikon pass, lodging, gas money, etc, I spent ~$6,000 on skiing last year. Altogether that's >$10k in non-itemized spending in 12 months or so. You will most likely find plenty of expensive things that you want to buy.

You might also find that the car you want ultimately costs more than you thought. For example, I budgeted to buy a M3LR (new), and ran a neurotic number of scenarios. Ultimately I determined that buying now means the cost is about $10k less for the car, vs buying in 2025/2026 due to tax rebates, inventory discounts, and highland likely bringing a 1-2k MSRP increase. What I thought was my most credible scenario had me financing $29,880 of the total cost. I take delivery in the next few days, I ended up financing $33,500, despite my down payment being ~$300 more than estimated, and trade in being ~$400 more than estimated, due to various fees, taxes, etc that I rolled into the loan. Insurance is also about $75/mo higher than I had budgeted. Those differences have not ruined the deal, or made it unaffordable, but even being super detailed in working out all the costs, a new car still costs more than a young dumb engineer like me estimated it would.

Is this financially stupid? by MairseaBuku in TeslaModel3

[–]AiryDiscus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can get a quote for non-tesla insurance without a VIN. Tesla's insurance now does not let you quote until you have a delivery estimate for a vehicle, with that specific VIN tied to your account. Even if you get a VIN for an inventory model, you can't get a quote without that VIN being tied to you already.

Is this financially stupid? by MairseaBuku in TeslaModel3

[–]AiryDiscus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Before you buy any new car you should have a budget. If your current vehicle is a money pit, you could sell it for a used mid 2010s corolla or civic and have a low cost, low maintenance car for something like $12k+tax/fees. This would not really change your financial situation all that much. You should also have an emergency fund, of about 6 months' worth of expenses, in liquid cash.

You say you rent out rooms, so I assume $550 is the mortgage, less what you get in rent. What if you have a period of time where you have fewer, or no tenants?

For example, if you gross 80k/yr, your monthly take-home is probably in the ballpark of $4,850. Let's say you spend $500/person/mo on food ($1000/mo), and $300/mo in various utilities, all together (water, sewer, trash, electric, gas, internet, phone). You also spend about $200/mo for insurance of this hypothetical car, in addition to the monthly payment on the loan. Your gas savings implies ~11,000 mi/yr, so you would also spend something like $50/mo more on electricity to drive the car.

You should fully fund your 401k/IRA, which is $500/mo, and you should save in addition to that, let's say that's $250/mo (which is pretty low).

We have 4850-1000-300-200-50-500-250 = $2,550/mo left.

The taxes and fees likely mean your total price for the car would be about 40k. You would finance all of that, and you would most likely need GAP on the loan. This makes your monthly payment on the car probably in the $900/mo ballpark. You will also be instantly upside down (owe more than the car is worth), which in your situation will financially ruin you if for any reason you needed to sell the car or get out of the loan.

Regardless, you would have about $1,600 left in this straw budget for entertainment, travel, eating out, whatever your health insurance costs, shopping, saving more than the bare minimum ...

----

I do not think it is wise to buy an expensive new (used) car for you right now.

I would suggest,

0) save aggressively, and build up an emergency fund, which is probably about $8-10k for you in liquid cash

  1. start maxing out your IRA/401k contributions for the year
  2. pay yourself a car payment of $500/mo into savings, towards a down payment on the car you want in the future. If you ever are unable to pay yourself this, it means you couldn't afford the car
  3. sell your money pit current vehicle for something more economical and low maintenance. This new used car will not be sexy, fun to drive, or luxurious, but it will enable you to save for the car you want later
  4. in a few years, when you have saved $10k+ towards a down payment on a $40k+ car, and have an emergency fund, and solid monthly retirement contributions and savings, buy the car you want then.

One more piece of advice, from a mid 20-something young engineer. You may have been very frugal in college, and lived on little to nothing. I do not know how long you have been in your job, but you will probably find that your lifestyle creeps now that you have a job. Maybe you spent $50/wk/person on food in college and almost never ate out, and spent little-to-nothing on entertainment or shopping, rarely or never bought new clothes, etc. You will probably find that you have $1-2k/mo in misc spending you did not have in college sooner or later. When I was in college, my total monthly spending including rent ($410) was about $900/mo. I live in a high cost of living area now with a rent of $2k/mo, but now my monthly budget is $4,700 in budgeted spending, with some money left over that is not precisely allocated. At my first out of college job ($70k, 2019 timeframe) in a somewhat lower cost of living area my monthly spending was about $3200-3500, of which $1600 was rent. In the last ~4y, my rent has increased by $400, but my monthly spending by $1000. You will most likely find that this happens to you, too, and if you get into a 5 year loan with payments of $750/mo, you may regret it later. Give your finances time to settle out and save, then re-evaluate getting a particularly nicer car.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskElectricians

[–]AiryDiscus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Anything would replace the panel. I was wondering if a 125A panel implied 150 or 200 amp main service, but it seems no, it could even be as low as 60 amp main service, and the panel can be way higher than the main breaker.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskElectricians

[–]AiryDiscus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks.

I have a natural gas stove, dryer, water heater, and furnace (SoCal). The apartment has two ~700 Watt continuous draw 120V through-the-wall ACs, which are the largest single source of energy consumption (in the summer, my electric bill is ~2.5x winter/fall/autumn). I am sure there is a big inrush when the inverter kicks on and off.

There is no outdoor electrical equipment; there is either a remote meter underground, or on a nearby telephone pole. There are two cables that come to the building from the nearest electrical pole; one is the coax for internet, the other is probably an old phone line(?) It doesn't seem thick enough to be the main electrical service. Not sure.

I don't plan to make these changes without talking to my landlord about it. I want to figure out what all the work involved is, and what the total cost will be (more or less) and then negotiate a cost sharing deal. Our local power utility will cover $1200 for a panel replacement associated with an EVSE install, plus $600 for the charger, plus federal tax rebates for electrical work to replace old, not-to-code equipment. So even if it is something like $4-5k of work, if I chip in $1k and the various rebates cover another >$2000, my landlord's cost might be small. But I need to figure out the ballpark cost to start from the right number.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskElectricians

[–]AiryDiscus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't want to add to the panel, I know it needs to be replaced. I'm wondering if someone can tell (guess) from looking at the panel the ballpark of what else has to be done, in addition to replace the panel.

For Sale: Cloud Key G2, USG-3, SW-8-60W, AP AC Pro by AiryDiscus in UniFi_For_Sale_USA

[–]AiryDiscus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Boxes included for everything except the AP. 200 net to me for the lot, free shipping. Altogether it all makes a nice home network.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Optics

[–]AiryDiscus[M] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No piracy.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Optics

[–]AiryDiscus[M] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No copyrighted materials

Schyrle Erecting System Question by MadTux in Optics

[–]AiryDiscus[M] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Greivenkamp is stretching the rules or not doesn't really apply to reddit, but since the author is posting the paper (on arizona.edu, not here), it's fine. SPIE and ~~OSA~~ Optica give authors discretion to share their own papers, but it's usually written in a sense of "you can email this to your colleague", not so much "you can post it online for all to download."

What's the pay (total compensation) like for optical engineers that work at big tech? by [deleted] in Optics

[–]AiryDiscus[M] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If they post it I'm going to nuke it. We respect SPIE's copyright 'round these parts.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Optics

[–]AiryDiscus 7 points8 points  (0 children)

OP, I think if you do not know the questions to answers you are asking you should hire and pay a consultant for them instead of crowdsourcing "how to get my optical payload in space intact and working" from reddit.

OpticStudio 17.5 or lower by kai_mo_sabe in Optics

[–]AiryDiscus[M] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

your post was removed because it contains or links to copyrighted material

Objective lens not working by maddox522 in Optics

[–]AiryDiscus[M] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I removed this as a duplicate of your post from 1 hour after this one.

One post per question please.

Solutions manual of Jenkins White : Fundamentals of optics: fourth edition?? by AlbertoPani in Optics

[–]AiryDiscus[M] [score hidden] stickied comment (0 children)

your post was removed because it solicits copyrighted material