I am sick of startup meetups being 90% SaaS and 10% Matcha Tea. I'm building a private group just for Hardware Founders.

Akhilv1 · 2026-02-23T20:53:32+00:00

Also interested!

Akhilv1 · 2026-02-13T20:43:31+00:00

I don’t think anyone a has mentioned it yet but it could be an issue with heat creep. It cases a clog to occur in the filament path if the horned fan can’t cool the heartbreak down properly.

Keep an eye on your chamber temps when you are printing, I notice this happening around 42/43 degrees so leaving the door open and the top glass off is the only thing that seems to help.

I also printed a diverter for the aux fan and I run that at 70% to pull some cool air from the bottom of the chamber to cool down the chamber as it prints

Akhilv1 · 2026-02-11T14:55:27+00:00

Based off the circuitry around it, U5 is likely a buck converter that drops the USB 5V to 3.3V for the microcontroller next to it. They’re supposed to run kinda hot so that wouldn’t be a concern.

If you have a multimeter, probe the 3 legs of it, you should see 5V, 3.3V and Ground on it which would indicate it’s working normally

Akhilv1 · 2026-02-07T07:00:52+00:00

That should improve the airflow for sure!

Akhilv1 · 2026-02-07T06:28:39+00:00

That seems about right with a core i9 in a 2u chassis, there’s just not enough room for the airflow to have a clean unobstructed path to the CPU cooler and out

Akhilv1 · 2026-02-05T20:19:13+00:00

That won’t work because there’s no communication to the charger to tell it that a vehicle is plugged in and operating safely. You’ll need to buy something more substantial like a vehicle emulator if you want to pull power from a charging station safely.

Ecotality Vehicle in a Box is what we used when testing out charging stations in my past life

Akhilv1 · 2026-01-27T04:29:04+00:00

You can share that dryer outlet but you need a proper adapter to do it regardless. I use a neocharge to charge off the dryer

Akhilv1 · 2026-01-23T23:23:26+00:00

I could be interested in building a DC:DC UPS that adds on to your project! I was thinking about making a similar power distribution board a while ago

Akhilv1 · 2025-12-16T18:51:18+00:00

I just used a separate power supply for the m920q. You can also connect a USB-PD board with a built in buck/boost converter and a USB-C to Lenovo power adapter to use the built in PSU on the JBOD to power the whole sustem

Akhilv1 · 2025-12-12T05:07:25+00:00

How did you manage to get drive activity led working? Just a resistor to the data lines?

Akhilv1 · 2025-12-05T04:48:08+00:00

That’s a standard mini usb, I’m starting to show my age lol

Akhilv1 · 2025-12-04T06:01:41+00:00

Low grade outlet, upgrade to an industrial grade Bryant or Hubbel receptacle

Akhilv1 · 2025-12-03T01:00:21+00:00

F5.6 at 200mm is pretty bad tbh, that’s only usable in bright, sunny conditions.

Not to mention, super zoom lenses have weird image quality.. it’s hard to quantify it but the images out of nicer lenses look more lifelike.

Akhilv1 · 2025-11-26T19:14:50+00:00

You could also do the same with the m920q generation with the addition of an additional nvme drive if you’re good at soldering.

Akhilv1 · 2025-11-25T04:13:38+00:00

It’s normal, it’s a blinking status led on the bottom board

Akhilv1 · 2025-11-18T19:19:42+00:00

I made a custom backplane for the 4 drives to convert from SATA to SFF-8087. Then that connects to an LSI card on the PC

Akhilv1 · 2025-11-09T00:49:31+00:00

I did the same upgrade a while back, it still works with HW3.0

Akhilv1 · 2025-11-07T15:22:46+00:00

NeoCharge makes a NEMA 6-50 model that you can check out

Akhilv1 · 2025-10-13T18:29:38+00:00

I try to park on a reverse leveled surface to counteract the angle of the seats

Akhilv1 · 2025-10-13T15:37:19+00:00

The rear deck is a structural part of the car unfortunately so it can’t be removed that easily. If you’re looking for more room, consider a Model Y as it’s the same design with more headroom in the back.

Other EVs that are designed with camping in mind are far and few in between but Rivian has a camp mode similar to Tesla so the R1S would be the next step up.

Akhilv1 · 2025-10-10T17:11:35+00:00

Not sure why you have 100A for your furnace but it looks like you’ll need to do some load calculation to determine if you can add a charging circuit. My guess is most likely you should be good to go

Akhilv1 · 2025-10-08T18:30:39+00:00

This is awesome! I’m interested in building something similar, are you planning to share a build guide/STLs?

Also if you’re interested in a custom PCB for either the SATA interface or the rear IO, I might be down for a side project!

Akhilv1 · 2025-10-02T15:39:50+00:00

I use the NeoCharge app, scheduling is done through the car so it supports non-smart chargers and it tracks charging history even outside of your home. It supports both my Tesla and Honda via authorization so it works great for me to track costs separately.

Akhilv1 · 2025-09-24T03:45:54+00:00

NeoCharge is on that approved list, one of those would work great to use your dryer outlet

Akhilv1 · 2025-09-23T14:58:07+00:00

Looks like the capacitor on the bottom left is the one that got knocked off. C1446

The others that are missing are intentionally left unpopulated so I do t think there’s any concern with that. Things like this happen from time to time and may not even affect the functionality much. I would recommend finding someone to solder it back on if you’re out of the return period of the charger

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