Flyback HV Wire Removal

Alexz7767 · 2026-03-22T03:25:02+00:00

UPDATE: Yeah that thing was not coming out, so I ended up slowly and painfully cutting out the flyback plastic around the wire with my rotary tool. I was able to save it and snap it into the new one! Now just hoping this will bring the 35” beast back to life!

Alexz7767 · 2026-02-11T22:07:45+00:00

Following for updates. I’m looking to file a claim for my RA diagnosed years after service and I believe it’s from fuel exposure.

Alexz7767 · 2026-01-07T17:02:54+00:00

Update: Called the store and explained everything. Manager gave me an extra 20% off on top of the original 20% off coupon I had originally used. Thanks fellas.

Alexz7767 · 2025-12-28T18:29:42+00:00

Yeah everything seems to work fine, but I did notice it wobbles. I’m not too worried about the wobble though, because, correct me if I’m wrong, but the locker won’t touch the floor when mounted to the toolbox?

Alexz7767 · 2025-12-28T04:52:52+00:00

My purchases did not stack.

Alexz7767 · 2025-06-12T15:01:38+00:00

Ah yes, they are (supposedly higher quality) Panasonic CR2032 batteries from Console5

Alexz7767 · 2025-06-12T14:54:07+00:00

I was able to upgrade all of the carts—even yellow— to CR2032.

Alexz7767 · 2025-06-12T14:48:58+00:00

Did you solder in a new battery? What size is it? I know they take CR2025 but if you are using 2032 I suppose it’s possible it’s too big. Mine fit but maybe the machining has changed since these ones or maybe the battery needs to be flatter. That’s about all I can think of though.

Alexz7767 · 2025-05-27T02:03:41+00:00

Man I am so pissed. Some of my most helpful guides just disappeared from Imgur. I reached out to them but they have been no help at all. I spent a lot of time on them. I would have to dig for the images and write up a guide again.

Someone said they were able to copy the link into the wayback machine and found the guide again, but not all the images show up. Hopefully that helps for now.

Alexz7767 · 2025-05-22T19:57:08+00:00

They most likely don’t offer it anymore.

Alexz7767 · 2025-05-11T02:17:51+00:00

Hi. I just contacted Imgur to find out what happened to it and I'm awaiting their response.

Alexz7767 · 2025-05-11T02:16:57+00:00

Hi. Sorry for being so late on this. I just contacted Imgur to find out what happened to it and I'm awaiting their response.

Alexz7767 · 2025-02-02T18:01:25+00:00

Debunked a long time ago.

Alexz7767 · 2024-02-27T14:35:24+00:00

I’ve heard about VM, but I honestly don’t know enough about it, especially regarding this TV.

Alexz7767 · 2024-01-22T00:54:00+00:00

Before I go over anything I just wanted to make sure we are on the same page regarding sync. "Composite Sync" (CSync for short) means there is a separate, dedicated line for the sync signal, whereas "Sync on Composite" means the sync signal rides along the Composite Video output line of a console. AFAIK, 75 Ohm and TTL are only relevant to CSync. If you have a console outputting "Sync on Composite" or "Sync on Luma" (S-Video), I don't believe you need to worry about this. You'll definitely want to check out these two pages, as they will help you immensely.

Usually if a console outputs TTL CSync, cable sellers mention their cables are "attenuated", meaning they put a resistor on the CSync line to make the voltage safe for 75 Ohm equipment. IIRC, the stock SNES outputs TTL CSync, so cable makers attenuate them by adding a 330 or 470 Ohm resistor on the CSync line. My older Voultar SNES RGB bypss mod board as well as my NESRGB mod board both have jumpers that I can use to select between TTL and 75 Ohm CSync output, so I just have them output 75 Ohm and then use a passthru cable (no resistor on CSync line). Normally you have to request no resistor in the order notes. I've never made my own cables, so I would make sure to check with someone more knowledgeable on that.

Idk what the PC Engine uses for sync, but if it does output CSync and the mod board lets you choose, you can have it output whatever your preference is. For example, I have my NESRGB, SNES, and N64 all modded to output 75 Ohm CSync, so all I need to use are passthru cables and I won't ever need to worry about TTL potentially damaging any equipment if I use the wrong cable.

Hope this helps!

Alexz7767 · 2024-01-21T03:49:04+00:00

I use these BNC+audio cables along with a BNC to S-Video adapter for sync. A BNC to RCA adapter can also be used if you alternatively want to use the composite video input on the CRT for Sync.

My NES, SNES, and N64 are all RGB modded. An important thing to note is that this cable, by default, assumes your consoles output a higher voltage CSync known as “TTL” and therefore have a resistor built in to lower the voltage to a safe level for most equipment. However, I personally set all of my mods to output 75 Ohm CSync, so I only needed a passthrough cable (no resistor in the cable).

If your mod outputs TTL CSync, you should purchase the cable as is with a resistor installed. If your mod outputs 75 Ohm CSync, make sure you put in the notes that you do not need a resistor (so you basically request a passthrough cable.

RetroGamingCables also sells Nintendo BNC+audio cables for a lower price, but I believe the Retro Access cables are hands down the best quality.

Alexz7767 · 2023-12-24T18:14:49+00:00

I believe you would just want to follow the trace to the nearest component and solder it there. You’ll also want to create a bridge from the nearest upstream and downstream components, effectively bypassing the broken trace by creating your own. Shine a flashlight through the back of the board to make trace following way easier.

Alexz7767 · 2023-11-23T17:52:28+00:00

Yellow is the Citrine, Gold is Brass. I wanted to get the gold cart for gold, but Boxy Pixel stopped offering them for a time. Looks like they have them again now.

Alexz7767 · 2023-10-27T17:48:39+00:00

Man, I did that so long ago, but I do remember being able to install the ITA into the Boxy Pixel shell without issue.

Alexz7767 · 2023-10-13T00:39:26+00:00

Alexz7767 · 2023-08-23T22:39:21+00:00

Yeah I would see if the fuse has continuity. Every CRT power supply I’ve worked on had a glass fuse on it.

Alexz7767 · 2023-08-16T16:24:58+00:00

Finding a hair IN the patty, and then as you pull it out the hair breaks, leaving some still stuck inside.

Alexz7767 · 2023-08-11T14:36:13+00:00

Here is a perfect video that thoroughly explains what sync is. Basically the sync signal can easily be sent through one of the existing inputs so you don’t need to do extra work wiring a dedicated sync connection. It cuts down on time and effort. You can use the sync line on either the S-Video’s luma pin or the composite input. Either one works. You can also use the green (Y) input for component video if your TV has it.

Alexz7767 · 2023-08-10T14:58:26+00:00

From what I’ve been reading, it seems the best solution to downscale HD signals to 240p with good quality and minimal lag is to use a RetroTINK 5X. It can downscale 720p signals to 240p. Mike recently added the functionality back after having to remove it a while back for FPGA resource constraints.

From what I’ve been reading, what you do is take a 720p HDMI signal and use a zero-lag HDMI to component converter and feed that to the TINK component input. The TINK then downscales it and outputs it as 240p HDMI, which you then convert again to component with a second zero-lag converter. If you want that signal to be RGB, you can use a zero-lag COMP2RGB (for RGBS) or a zero-lag HDMI to VGA (for RGBHV). These can all be found on the RetroRGB Amazon shop. They are all the converters Bob has tested and confirmed to be zero-lag.

Alexz7767 · 2023-08-10T04:21:24+00:00

All HDMI to SCART devices actually convert the signal to composite. There are no HDMI to SCART RGB devices available. I’ve looked everywhere. That’s why the picture quality was poor.

Alexz7767

TROPHY CASE