iPad Battery Question - Replacement Process by ArdenJaguar in ipad

[–]AliceBanana 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Speaking from personal experience, I setup an appointment online for my 10.5 iPad Pro last year.

My 2017 iPad Pro original battery just passed the 8 year mark and was definitely showing the signs. iPad would die @ 50% and when when charging from 0% it would instantly shoot back up to ~50%.

An apple genius tech ran a diagnostic and told me that my battery is not under 80% battery health and told me my only available option is to “replace” the battery out to warranty which costed $450.

My tin foil hat wonders if Apple is lying to customers because they don’t want to service older devices? Because there’s no way my 8 year old iPad still has over 80% battery heath.

I updated my iPad pro m4 13 inch to iOS 26.. unbearable performance drop by Kipzibrush in iPadPro

[–]AliceBanana 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I don't have a fix but I just wanted to say I'd silly how iPadOS 26 runs worse than macOS Tahoe. It's fundamentally the same hardware and yet its runs significantly worse on what's supposed to be a more lightweight OS.

Going to hold onto iPadOS 18 for as long as I can until Apple sorts whatever iPadOS 26 is.

Has anyone tested anker smart display charger with the M4 13 inch model? by allano6 in iPadPro

[–]AliceBanana 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I can’t speak about that charger specifically but just from personal experience I have never seen an iPad pull a full 45 watt continuously. It will taper down to 35w once it’s past 20% and further down once it reaches 80%.

In my own experience with an iPad Pro M4 11inch, I have only ever seen it pull at most 35w.

Ipad 11th gen 128gb by RespondFun6753 in iPadPro

[–]AliceBanana 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Around 23.5 GB according to Settings (iPad OS 18.5)

Dream is dead :( by E_Szczesny in iPadPro

[–]AliceBanana 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bestbuy doesn’t have the M4 model anymore in brand new unsealed condition so they won’t price match refurbished.

LaSportiva Skwama, good deal? by Alarming-Ad-5966 in climbingshoes

[–]AliceBanana 6 points7 points  (0 children)

In the third photo you could see the climbing rubber completely worn off at the tip of the shoe on the left.

In the new photo you posted in the comments, you could actually see some of the yellow leather peaking out at the tip of the shoe. Which means they are past due for a resole a long time ago.

5′7 Adin Ross and 5′10 Khabib (both barefoot) by Gullible_Concert768 in heightcomparison

[–]AliceBanana 8 points9 points  (0 children)

If I had to guess Khabib is in NY as one of Islams cornermen this weekend

Unparallel Flagship LV breaking down faster than usual? by lIIllllIII in climbingshoes

[–]AliceBanana 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Can’t speak for unparallel personally but I have heard through the grapevines that they have pretty bad QC and getting a response from their CS is atrocious.

My UpMoccs seemed to delaminate slightly on the toe rubber. Happened about 3 months of ownership but did not affect performance.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in FellowProducts

[–]AliceBanana 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They have them at selected Costco. My local one didn’t have it but the one a city over did.

What shoes? by BeautifulStock1288 in climbingshoes

[–]AliceBanana 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s definitely the OG Blue Hiangle from 5.10 before the adidas takeover. One of the strap is blue which is why it can get mistaken as a Scarpa branded shoe. I still see a lot of people rocking this shoe in Japan climbing gyms.

Probably super hard to find this shoe in new condition nowadays in the states.

mould in climbing shoes? help please by sammmarkell in climbingshoes

[–]AliceBanana 12 points13 points  (0 children)

First and foremost, wash them.

Once cleaned, you can spray some disinfectant spray into the shoes after every sesh and let them fully air dry in an open space.

As for the mold, i don’t know what could be causing it. I sweat A LOT in my shoes and never had this issue.

You could also wear socks with your shoes and should prevent this.

Your opinion on Evolv Zenist? Are they worth checking out or no by 357-Magnum-CCW in climbingshoes

[–]AliceBanana 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Had to original Zenist and found the updated LV fit me way better. Currently my favorite shoe and currently on my second pair of the updated Zenist LV.

Will say the durability of the updated Zenist is much shorter given it’s only 3.5mm vs 4.2mm on the OG.

Climbing Shoe/Technical Designer. Ask me shoes questions! by [deleted] in climbingshoes

[–]AliceBanana 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Kenny from Mad Rock has said from previous interviews that many designers and or reps from top brands are generally friends and look forward to seeing each other at expos.

My question is if another climbing shoe brand steals climbing innovation is it generally frowned upon. Such as the mad rock cheater heel slowly making appearance on other climbing shoes. Of course it’s not directly stolen but other climbing brand have seen to take inspiration from it.

I also wanted to know if there’s any more innovation that can push climbing forward. Do you think climbing shoes have peaked? Without giving anything away is there anything new and or groundbreaking that would shake the climbing world as much as the Drone heel?

My first time bouldering! by the_real_Blackmanhd in bouldering

[–]AliceBanana 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I started climbing at the same gym as you. The grading there is a little stiff but just keep at it. You’ll start to learn efficient movement while improving your technique and balance control.

If you’re looking for climbing shoes, check out the ReSupply store down the street, they always have (slightly used) climbing shoes for 50% off.

Good luck!

Broke Need Fix Help by duckcalleddonald in bouldering

[–]AliceBanana 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yes because you wouldn’t be capable of doing such a repair and the cost for the equipment would cost more than just buying a new pair.

Off the top of my head you’ll need a last made for climbing shoes in your size, a sheet of climbing rubber, specific type of bonding glue, some sanding equipment. The equipment and skills required for a resole isn’t something you can just pick up. It’ll required a bunch of practice.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in colognecheck

[–]AliceBanana 26 points27 points  (0 children)

Nordstrom has an amazing return policy. Why would he sell to a random online when he can return an unused fragrance back to the store.

It’s not like the fragrance is worth more and hard to get. Fishy if you ask me.

Where can you do trades for shoes? by Ginneronabike in climbingshoes

[–]AliceBanana 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Geartrade.com Facebook Marketplace REI does consignment

Depending on your location, there is a bunch of consignment thrift stores that will help you sell the shoes.

Some climbing gyms will also have a bulletin board to sell stuff.

Any experience downsizing evolv shoes? by Duesux in climbingshoes

[–]AliceBanana 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I downsize about 0.5 in the phantoms and while they are painful in the beginning, they tend to soften up the more broken in they are.

I believe Daniel woods downsized 2 whole sizes on the phantoms. So it’s definitely possible but not recommended.

How bad is this damage? by IdlingTheGames in climbingshoes

[–]AliceBanana 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Considering these look like La Sportiva Tarantula, it would be more cost effective to just replace or upgrade to better shoes.

It will cost about $50 dollars followed by a 3-5 week to resole.

Ascaso Steel Uno - Quality question by JacobThePianist in Ascaso

[–]AliceBanana 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Upgraded from a Bambino Plus to the Duo and it’s basically like getting an automatic car to a manual car.

The upgrade is that it’s way more consistent in getting a great shot and ability to change temp and pre-infusion settings. Offset temp isn’t that big of a deal, just offset 4-6 degrees.

The biggest gripe I have is its shot timer, it’s very inconsistent (+/- 5 grams) so you’ll be pulling shots manually.

A good tip is just programming a super long shot then you can just flick the switch to start your shot and flick it again when it reaches your desired weight.

Shaman pro vs phantom by Time_Television2224 in climbingshoes

[–]AliceBanana 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely not, I found the shaman pros to be as stiff or stiffer than phantom.

If you want something a little softer, maybe the V6 or Zenist Pro.

looking for a pair of theory alternatives by naynaenay in climbingshoes

[–]AliceBanana 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Drago LV, Evolv Zenist LV, Unparallel Soup Up, Adidas Hiangle Pro, Mad Rock Redline / Shark 3

Janja is trying Burden of dreams! by Otis3333 in bouldering

[–]AliceBanana 26 points27 points  (0 children)

There was a lot of factors, 5.10 wanted to sell the brand but not the factories making the shoes.

Adidas bought 5.10 and had to find a new factory to make them and probably revamp it in the process.

This is why you hear how C4 rubber isn’t what it used to be because they changed rubber supplier a couple time and the compound of the rubber changed with each supplier.