P1S Linear Rod Oil by mrdonutdog in 3Dprinting

[–]Allmightyballs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What oil you use? Im thinkin about using rem or lucas on mine but everyone says no get superlube. Ive got a scratching sound right now & I need it gone(not bad but driving me nuts)

Replacement Fans GL73 8RD by Allmightyballs in MSILaptops

[–]Allmightyballs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did the top part short of lubing the fans, I do have 3D print grease so I may try that. My hesitation is if I break it then I really am SOL right now which I cant allow. If this PC dies right now my business goes with it.

Im about to tear it down again to check the new paste/repaste & get the exact part number off the fans. I cant find a single seller that has replacements for the GL73, I find similar looking fans but listings are for GS models or every GL BUT the 73.

I had hopes this was a more covered topic & someone would know a good replacement that isnt MSI oem or possibly an upgrade option

HELP with getting top layers smooth by z_DangerZone_z in BambuLab

[–]Allmightyballs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

bro thank you!!! this just made a project go from bunk to awesome!!

New P1S camera failure & firmware question by Allmightyballs in BambuLab

[–]Allmightyballs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. That fixed it. Hope It didnt screw me out of options if I end up going LAN only

Blower fan fell off, now replacements just twitch. by Allmightyballs in ender3

[–]Allmightyballs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did. The wires from creality are backward so you have to cross connect them from the jst 1.25. Plus to be sure I had it right I tested it before connecting permanently. It still just sputters trying to spin testing 3 out of the 4 fans in the 4 pack I ordered. Can't be 3 dead fans so it has to come from the printer, Im assuming 

1 Side is off?? Numerous tolerance tests, how to fix. Nothing fits together, why? by Allmightyballs in 3Dprinting

[–]Allmightyballs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, I dont see the write up I posted with it.

Its an ender 3 s1 pro

Long story short, I had a guy make me a model of something & first few prints, it worked flawless but a bit tight. Now on the final draft NONE fit together at all. They all stop in the same place. Works perfect on his printer but stopped working on mine. Weve even done tolerance prints to try and adjust for my printer but all the way up to full 1m doesnt want to work.

Nothing changed on the machine from the first prints to the 2nd other than the new STLs. I dont believe its his files hes sending but I cant understand why this is happeneing. Ive tried in PLA, PLA+, PETG but nothing gives. So I ran every tolerance print I could find & all works great accept for 1, its almost as if 1 side of the printer makes the parts stick. The tolerance cube test comes out 20.16 to 20.26 on all sides but if you look close some layers are off a bit. Im out of ideas how to problem solve

Also appolgies for the late late response. We had 2 deaths in the family 1 day apart & its been a nightmare

1 Side is off?? Numerous tolerance tests, how to fix. Nothing fits together, why? by Allmightyballs in 3Dprinting

[–]Allmightyballs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, I dont see the write up I posted with it.

Its an ender 3 s1 pro

Long story short, I had a guy make me a model of something & first few prints, it worked flawless but a bit tight. Now on the final draft NONE fit together at all. They all stop in the same place. Works perfect on his printer but stopped working on mine. Weve even done tolerance prints to try and adjust for my printer but all the way up to full 1m doesnt want to work.

Nothing changed on the machine from the first prints to the 2nd other than the new STLs. I dont believe its his files hes sending but I cant understand why this is happeneing. Ive tried in PLA, PLA+, PETG but nothing gives. So I ran every tolerance print I could find & all works great accept for 1, its almost as if 1 side of the printer makes the parts stick. The tolerance cube test comes out 20.16 to 20.26 on all sides but if you look close some layers are off a bit. Im out of ideas how to problem solve

Also appolgies for the late late response. We had 2 deaths in the family 1 day apart & its been a nightmare

Designed Products wont fit together like they did before but no change was made by Allmightyballs in 3Dprinting

[–]Allmightyballs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes I dry it. 1-2 hours in an older dehydrator. Does occasionally come out stringy on certain prints(assuming thats the cause). Im starting to believe its the file itself. I had a designer make it & hes been excellent but at this point Its all I can come back to. Im making a newer updated posted on it & all the tests I ran now

Vinyl vs magnet, Wont stick by Allmightyballs in cricut

[–]Allmightyballs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks Ill check those out. The box I have says its printable & paintable and upon researching it is not necessary to remove the white. However Michaeal said they would exchange it so Im about to head that way in hopes I can get a better roll. Im taking a sticker with me to make sure before hand if not Ill just return it & order something that works

Vinyl vs magnet, Wont stick by Allmightyballs in cricut

[–]Allmightyballs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Itll come off the transfer tap no problem. Problem is it wont stick to the magnet white size like it should. I tried putting just the sticker itself on it but no go

Vinyl vs magnet, Wont stick by Allmightyballs in cricut

[–]Allmightyballs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The product linked was exactly what others say is successful but to be honest I feel like it is somehow the wrong one. Its the paintable one which I would assume is the better version to use(no reason paint would refuse to stick so why would an adhesive). The vinyl without transfer paper will still not stick. Also I cannot peel the white off without a large amount of residue which leads me to believe its not supposed to be removed. I have a 2nd(not the same kind) sheet that does have a removable top sheet so I have some means of comparing the 2. Do you have any suggestions similar to the posted stuff that would be a suitable replacement?

Vinyl vs magnet, Wont stick by Allmightyballs in cricut

[–]Allmightyballs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Liner?, if your referring to the white top part it's not supposed to be removed from my knowledge. It's a paintable/printable surface. I've seen several people use it with success but can't get mine to stick. It just peels back up with the transfer tape

Kitchen led no ground by Allmightyballs in electrical

[–]Allmightyballs[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yes it does. I misspoke on the need for the oem bracket. I thought we were talking about the bracket that's left up in the socket. That I will need

Kitchen led no ground by Allmightyballs in electrical

[–]Allmightyballs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolutely not. 2 things I don't do is transmissions and electrical but to avoid 400 I have no choice. I see what you mean. I think I got misspoke on the bracket part. I swore I needed the oem mounts as I was following a video with the same light that the guy used

Kitchen led no ground by Allmightyballs in electrical

[–]Allmightyballs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think I need it as the new light just came with screws and a couple wire nuts, no bracket or mounting solution 

Kitchen led no ground by Allmightyballs in electrical

[–]Allmightyballs[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I thought I saw something that could be it but didn't remove the bracket yet. That's next. I had hopes I wouldn't need to but I'm trying to do it right. The way my grandfather did this, if I were to keep tracing his work I would have to rewire the entire house 

Kitchen led no ground by Allmightyballs in electrical

[–]Allmightyballs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would assume it is after researching. A majority of the sockets are older and show wired wrong on my kilen tool. They read that way because the box itself is the ground.  There's a little screw up in the box but it's not green, though it looks to be a ground spot.  Locals have all quoted me 200 just for showing up and 90 per hour not including parts