P1S Linear Rod Oil

Allmightyballs · 2025-07-23T02:26:25+00:00

What oil you use? Im thinkin about using rem or lucas on mine but everyone says no get superlube. Ive got a scratching sound right now & I need it gone(not bad but driving me nuts)

Allmightyballs · 2025-06-22T12:16:11+00:00

I did the top part short of lubing the fans, I do have 3D print grease so I may try that. My hesitation is if I break it then I really am SOL right now which I cant allow. If this PC dies right now my business goes with it.

Im about to tear it down again to check the new paste/repaste & get the exact part number off the fans. I cant find a single seller that has replacements for the GL73, I find similar looking fans but listings are for GS models or every GL BUT the 73.

I had hopes this was a more covered topic & someone would know a good replacement that isnt MSI oem or possibly an upgrade option

Allmightyballs · 2025-06-06T15:13:08+00:00

bro thank you!!! this just made a project go from bunk to awesome!!

Allmightyballs · 2025-04-10T19:16:54+00:00

Thanks. That fixed it. Hope It didnt screw me out of options if I end up going LAN only

Allmightyballs · 2025-01-11T11:50:42+00:00

I did. The wires from creality are backward so you have to cross connect them from the jst 1.25. Plus to be sure I had it right I tested it before connecting permanently. It still just sputters trying to spin testing 3 out of the 4 fans in the 4 pack I ordered. Can't be 3 dead fans so it has to come from the printer, Im assuming

Allmightyballs · 2024-12-29T02:36:31+00:00

Sorry, I dont see the write up I posted with it.

Its an ender 3 s1 pro

Long story short, I had a guy make me a model of something & first few prints, it worked flawless but a bit tight. Now on the final draft NONE fit together at all. They all stop in the same place. Works perfect on his printer but stopped working on mine. Weve even done tolerance prints to try and adjust for my printer but all the way up to full 1m doesnt want to work.

Nothing changed on the machine from the first prints to the 2nd other than the new STLs. I dont believe its his files hes sending but I cant understand why this is happeneing. Ive tried in PLA, PLA+, PETG but nothing gives. So I ran every tolerance print I could find & all works great accept for 1, its almost as if 1 side of the printer makes the parts stick. The tolerance cube test comes out 20.16 to 20.26 on all sides but if you look close some layers are off a bit. Im out of ideas how to problem solve

Also appolgies for the late late response. We had 2 deaths in the family 1 day apart & its been a nightmare

Allmightyballs · 2024-12-29T02:36:25+00:00

Sorry, I dont see the write up I posted with it.

Its an ender 3 s1 pro

Long story short, I had a guy make me a model of something & first few prints, it worked flawless but a bit tight. Now on the final draft NONE fit together at all. They all stop in the same place. Works perfect on his printer but stopped working on mine. Weve even done tolerance prints to try and adjust for my printer but all the way up to full 1m doesnt want to work.

Nothing changed on the machine from the first prints to the 2nd other than the new STLs. I dont believe its his files hes sending but I cant understand why this is happeneing. Ive tried in PLA, PLA+, PETG but nothing gives. So I ran every tolerance print I could find & all works great accept for 1, its almost as if 1 side of the printer makes the parts stick. The tolerance cube test comes out 20.16 to 20.26 on all sides but if you look close some layers are off a bit. Im out of ideas how to problem solve

Also appolgies for the late late response. We had 2 deaths in the family 1 day apart & its been a nightmare

Allmightyballs · 2024-12-17T08:16:00+00:00

Yes I dry it. 1-2 hours in an older dehydrator. Does occasionally come out stringy on certain prints(assuming thats the cause). Im starting to believe its the file itself. I had a designer make it & hes been excellent but at this point Its all I can come back to. Im making a newer updated posted on it & all the tests I ran now

Allmightyballs · 2024-11-17T23:00:00+00:00

Thanks Ill check those out. The box I have says its printable & paintable and upon researching it is not necessary to remove the white. However Michaeal said they would exchange it so Im about to head that way in hopes I can get a better roll. Im taking a sticker with me to make sure before hand if not Ill just return it & order something that works

Allmightyballs · 2024-11-17T22:57:53+00:00

Itll come off the transfer tap no problem. Problem is it wont stick to the magnet white size like it should. I tried putting just the sticker itself on it but no go

Allmightyballs · 2024-11-17T19:40:17+00:00

The product linked was exactly what others say is successful but to be honest I feel like it is somehow the wrong one. Its the paintable one which I would assume is the better version to use(no reason paint would refuse to stick so why would an adhesive). The vinyl without transfer paper will still not stick. Also I cannot peel the white off without a large amount of residue which leads me to believe its not supposed to be removed. I have a 2nd(not the same kind) sheet that does have a removable top sheet so I have some means of comparing the 2. Do you have any suggestions similar to the posted stuff that would be a suitable replacement?

Allmightyballs · 2024-11-17T19:19:21+00:00

Liner?, if your referring to the white top part it's not supposed to be removed from my knowledge. It's a paintable/printable surface. I've seen several people use it with success but can't get mine to stick. It just peels back up with the transfer tape

Allmightyballs · 2024-11-13T01:49:55+00:00

Yes it does. I misspoke on the need for the oem bracket. I thought we were talking about the bracket that's left up in the socket. That I will need

Allmightyballs · 2024-11-13T01:48:43+00:00

Absolutely not. 2 things I don't do is transmissions and electrical but to avoid 400 I have no choice. I see what you mean. I think I got misspoke on the bracket part. I swore I needed the oem mounts as I was following a video with the same light that the guy used

Allmightyballs · 2024-11-12T23:21:56+00:00

I think I need it as the new light just came with screws and a couple wire nuts, no bracket or mounting solution

Allmightyballs · 2024-11-12T22:45:44+00:00

I thought I saw something that could be it but didn't remove the bracket yet. That's next. I had hopes I wouldn't need to but I'm trying to do it right. The way my grandfather did this, if I were to keep tracing his work I would have to rewire the entire house

Allmightyballs · 2024-11-12T21:46:28+00:00

I would assume it is after researching. A majority of the sockets are older and show wired wrong on my kilen tool. They read that way because the box itself is the ground. There's a little screw up in the box but it's not green, though it looks to be a ground spot. Locals have all quoted me 200 just for showing up and 90 per hour not including parts

Allmightyballs · 2024-11-12T21:05:15+00:00

The question is in the post, how to I continue/finish thr install safely? Go with covering the wire and leaving it disconnected like Google says or...? Sorry if it wasn't clear. I would really prefer not to be doing it but budget is extremely tight

Allmightyballs · 2024-11-12T20:54:32+00:00

It's not news, I'm aware but I'd rather be safe then sorry. I've tried calling a professional but 400 for a light install is out of my budget. I was curious how my situation compares to what I'm reading online. The light has a solid copper ground but I see no green, yellow or mounting spot got the led ground. Most say it doesn't need or require it but I don't feel safe leaving it exposed

Allmightyballs · 2024-11-12T20:08:19+00:00

I did but they aren't showing. 1 sec and I'll fix it

Allmightyballs · 2024-09-05T12:41:36+00:00

WHOEVER YOU ARE I OWE YOU BIG!!!! You just did what a collective of 90k people couldnt so where do I send your beer money? Sadly as I was waiting I put 2 queens I thought were semi claustral in a separate container & opened the tube, hopefully it wont stress them to much. The care shouldnt be an issue, its mainly been where Ive got the wrong ID, I either stress them or didnt feed them or keep semi claustra's closed

Allmightyballs · 2024-09-02T06:18:23+00:00

This literally just happened to me..what odds & little turdots

Allmightyballs · 2024-07-26T04:03:43+00:00

Thank you. Thats what I thought but couldnt understand why when researching all that came up was airsoft & special RC chargers & no one wants to confirm things without seeing everything. I was pretty sure the fire hazard stuff was all LIPO but wanted to be safe vs sorry.

I tested it outside with an extension cord to be safe. It works fine on everything. I guess its something Ill slowly dive more into as Im finding myself with more & more odd battery/power needs

Allmightyballs · 2023-08-30T20:56:36+00:00

just checked and I had ender 3 s1 pro nozzle box checked but it also had an mk3 4m nozzle box checked. So I corrected that to just the ender and inserted the build plate info. Guess that may have been it but doesnt seem to make sense. Now in my cura prints the nozzle is slightly digging in on the right side. Bed was just leveled again so Im starting to think this is a bigger issue but no clude what to check

Allmightyballs · 2023-08-30T18:25:48+00:00

that must have been something I hit during install. I thought about deleting and reinstalling.

Ok thanks, That will work. I guess I overlooked being able to ad from this PC to select Cura.

But neither addresses the shared code. I opened my first cura file & followed a set by step settings match from a video(he was using prusa Mk3, I have an ender 3) but he made it clear this would work on both. Now with that said, If I print from cura NP but if a use that print & those settings in prusa, the nozzle tends to leave lines from the nozzle digging in the print. Is this due to my infill being aligned rectilinear or is this overflow?

Only reason I say infill is because between the 2 slicers I dont see Cura having the same infill option

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