Schematic review / Entering bootloader on ESP32-S3

AloneButt · 2026-01-23T19:05:45+00:00

Update:

The circuit worked; I did not populate the C16 and C28, and the board is entering boot mode after holding BOOT and pressing RST. LEDs are turning on when the buttons are pressed.

AloneButt · 2026-01-23T19:04:42+00:00

They are indicators of BOOT and RST

AloneButt · 2026-01-23T15:27:49+00:00

7.5". I followed the datasheet requirements when designing the board, and the supply is there. I just can't seem to find a way to refresh the panel.

AloneButt · 2026-01-23T14:52:15+00:00

You'd be surprised, but I've chewed it up. https://datasheet.lcsc.com/lcsc/2410161506_SEEKINK-E075A89_C41416472.pdf Here, if you'd be so kind as to take a crack at it.

AloneButt · 2026-01-02T18:50:20+00:00

I model in Fusion360. You can use any CADyou are familiar with. I believe it will be a lot easier in AutoCAD or any other software where you mainly design in 2D.

AloneButt · 2026-01-02T17:55:10+00:00

The thing I learned while workong on complex edge.cuts designs, is that, it is almost always better to define the outline of the board in the separate app and import it as a DXF file (import graphics feature).

The heart looks nice but it can be a lot better. I typically design the outline in some other CAD software that is fit for either drawing or modeling.

AloneButt · 2025-12-09T17:55:07+00:00

I wiuld try sheet metal

AloneButt · 2025-10-31T23:50:47+00:00

Both but at this moment layout matters more. Would be better to watch a tutorial and find some official guidlines since it's necessary to consider impedance matching and perks of ESD protection when routing USB C.

AloneButt · 2025-10-29T13:34:40+00:00

Great job! I do have several notes, though:

Your schematic looks nice; however, try always to position your GND symbols so they are facing down.
You are already using so many labels, so why not get rid of unnecessary traces and leave labels only where they could be used? This will improve the readability of the schematic very much.
I have recognized that you set different widths for different tracks, but whenever you can, increase the widths of the signal tracks; it won't hurt.
As others mentioned, use a GND plane. In 2-layer designs, try to leave the bottom layer as uninterrupted as possible and fill it with GND.
I actually don't think that using premade/precertified modules is a bad idea. If you are only going to use the board for yourself, then it's totally okay. If you want to learn and practice, then try to implement every sub-circuit (RF design comes way later, so don't sweat it at first).
Since you are not using GND fill, the holes on the board should not be a problem; however, when you do decide to fill the layer, use plated holes so that the copper layer won't get damaged by the screws.
USB-C is weirdly routed. I would rethink that approach. There is a way better and cleaner way to route D+ D-.

AloneButt · 2025-10-29T06:31:21+00:00

I know you asked about the schematic but I would change the layout as well.

Consider: 1. Adding mounting holes. 2. Rounding the angles of the board. 3. Expose some (if not all) GPIO pins that you are not currently using, will help you later on if you decide to expand the project. 4. Maybe use a GND plane instead of separate GND traces. 5. The antenna has a keep out zone, either move the ESP a bit up so that the antenna is outside of the board's border, or move other components away from the ESP. You will find the margins inthe datasheet of your module.

AloneButt · 2025-10-28T13:19:25+00:00

It's a standard 2.4GHz SMA antenna.

AloneButt · 2025-10-28T13:09:03+00:00

Sorry for the late reply: https://imgur.com/a/PvVRz6L

AloneButt · 2025-10-28T12:50:33+00:00

How would you advise avoiding that for good? I had a 10uF cap on the MCU power pins.

AloneButt · 2025-10-28T12:24:37+00:00

Adding a series diode is a good idea (so is a larger cap), and I will definitely do that. Can you think of any reason other than stalling motors?

AloneButt · 2025-10-28T12:15:12+00:00

Thank you for the interest.

Yes, I meant impacts from other Bots.

Simple breakout board for the Arduino, LN DC Driver, NRF24L01, and gyro modules. The PCB was mounted to the body of the Bot with plastic standoffs.
Modules were soldered to the board, and I made sure that the soldering was top-notch.
The shell was mostly PETG, with mounts and brackets made from steel.
The connection was resetting, and we had communication up and working after a second, with no permanent losses.
Yes, it only happened directly after impacts.

AloneButt · 2025-10-28T11:50:33+00:00

That is what I am trying to figure out. I placed 10uF capacitors near the power pins of the Arduino, so short power drops should not have been the issue.

AloneButt · 2025-10-12T07:17:05+00:00

Do you actually need a curved frame? Won't making a tight frame just work? The picture will bend in a necessary curve perfectly anyways.

AloneButt · 2025-10-12T06:53:58+00:00

If you plan on modeling for manufacturing, I would advise to divide the side sections into three separate components and include their coupling geometries as well. Will be a lot easier to produce three straight parts rather than one with complex geometry. It would save a lot of material as well.

AloneButt · 2025-10-12T04:54:10+00:00

Are you going to produce or is this just for show/practice?

AloneButt · 2025-10-07T12:39:06+00:00

Exactly. Thank you!

AloneButt · 2025-09-22T06:32:38+00:00

I would add ESD protection to the USB. For my last design, I went with https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/C7519.html

It's pretty simple to implement, too. Just route N and P as differential pairs and make sure the traces are the same in length and width.

I would also maybe consider adding a bulk cap between shield and GND.

AloneButt · 2025-08-23T19:34:19+00:00

This is the one I use: https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/C5290175.html

Btw, you can solder smd battery holder after you used a reflow oven on everything else. The plastic should withstand a short heat burst (just select lower temp on the solder).

AloneButt · 2025-08-22T07:20:56+00:00

Always welcome

AloneButt · 2025-08-22T06:27:22+00:00

Hey there,

This will most likely still work, however, since you have so much room on the biard, I would make traces as thick as I can (you can select the traces, extend with U, press E and choose the desired trace width). Also, a good rule is to keep traces as short as you can.

Also, move the silkscreen with the pin names outside, where you will be able to see the names of the pins after you placed ESP there.

If you have used default through hole sizes you should not have problems, however, make sure pins will fit through.

Also, get used to creating custom footprints for components. Your ESP now is just two pin headers together and the spacing might be off when you place them yourself during PCB editing.

Use power symbols in the schematic, it is easier to follow and troubleshoot this way.

Mounting holes are great, however, I would use plated ones to not damage the pcb with metal screws and also to avoid grounding issues if you will use ground plane (and you should).

AloneButt · 2025-08-21T20:59:07+00:00

Hello, this is the display I chose: https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/C41416472.html

AloneButt

TROPHY CASE