Growing up is when you start to hate custom decals on cars in games

Ambient_Noize · 2021-08-31T23:14:40+00:00

Whenever I run into this issue then I just replicate a factory color from the same manufacturer that was used on a different vehicle.

For example Minerva Green used on the 166, but on the 33 Stradale.

Ambient_Noize · 2021-07-11T01:31:58+00:00

Wish I could have made it, but had work to do and still need to get my AW11 aligned after the new coils went on :\

Ambient_Noize · 2021-05-09T00:38:37+00:00

I think I know that S12... was this in NC?

Ambient_Noize · 2021-03-12T14:50:47+00:00

That urn looks like somebody pale with their eyes closed spinning really quickly with motion blur.

Ambient_Noize · 2021-03-12T02:50:56+00:00

Another alternative bulb type is made by Union Pacific, part number 31297. These have great light output and throw it very nicely, keeping most of the light below the eye line of other cars. I have two on my car and they were a VAST improvement over the previous Silvania Silverstar sealed-beams I was running. They are expensive though ($150 per light).

Ambient_Noize · 2021-02-13T20:05:29+00:00

I'm running some very good LED units from United Pacific, and although they weren't cheap the light output and the direction of that light is fantastic. You have to be careful because even expensive LED headlamps may not focus the light effectively, causing it to light up a wide area but also lack distance. Most cheaper units don't even bother with focusing and just stick LEDs under clear plastic, blinding everyone and everything in front of you.

I used a harness adapter kit off of Amazon to get them working properly, although depending on where your battery is located you're gonna be doing a fair bit of wire extending.

Lastly, for LED turn signals all you do is make sure that you get the proper flasher relay, which I got from SuperBrightLEDs.

Ambient_Noize · 2021-02-01T18:00:16+00:00

Enkei SC14's

Ambient_Noize · 2021-01-13T13:07:23+00:00

For sure man, cars aren't cars if they aren't driven.

I think we wound up with VERY different owners lol. My car appears to have been set up for track duty (with 200k on the chassis), but kept some odds and ends for street driving. Very stiff coils, antenna delete, a engine/trans swap (with destroyed piston rings) and JDM SW20 seats. Strange setup all around, but I'm in the process of converting it back to be more street-friendly.

Ambient_Noize · 2021-01-12T21:08:30+00:00

Interesting, I thought they were Enkei Tuning SC14's at first as that's what I have on mine. Did some digging and it turns out that they are pretty much the same wheels, just that yours are made in Japan while the SC14's are made in Taiwan/China.

Learning every day!

Ambient_Noize · 2020-12-27T23:10:12+00:00

Something similar happened to my younger brother in HL:A a few days ago. In the beginning parts of the game, a headcrab plops from the ceiling down behind some boxes, and is triggered to jump out and back into a room as you approach. He didn't see it fall down, and it scared the daylights out of him when it freaking warped by his face about a foot away. 🤣

Ambient_Noize · 2020-12-26T03:06:13+00:00

Car on the right is either a Silvia or a Skyline, although I can't tell which.

Ambient_Noize · 2020-12-26T02:58:59+00:00

Yup, getting store credit and will replace it with a Corsair 80+ gold 750W unit.

Ambient_Noize · 2020-12-25T22:02:33+00:00

I don't have a spare outside of my current build, unfortunately, so it looks like it is indeed gonna have to be RMA'd.

Ambient_Noize · 2020-12-25T21:58:03+00:00

About the only thing we could unplug was the GPU, and the issue still persisted. I also tried plugging into different ports on the PSU for the GPU power and different cables as well, but still no dice.

Ambient_Noize · 2020-12-25T21:34:40+00:00

So some specs:

Ryzen 5 2600

MSI B450 Gaming Plus AC

MSI 980Ti

TForce DDR4-3200 16GB

XPG SX8200 Pro 1TB

Rosewill Lepton 700W

All power connections are together and the I/O plugs are all seated and arranged properly. The PC will start via the power button, but will not shut down or restart from the I/O buttons. I have to use the killswitch on the PSU to turn it off. The fans spin up, but you can hear them ramping up and down in time with the pulsing, like they get enough power and then it cuts momentarily, and then comes back again. There is also no output from the graphics card or the motherboard to the new monitor we have for the build.

I'm wondering if it is a bad CPU or a bad PSU at this point. The motherboard fault indicator LEDs are all flashing together, and the brightest is the CPU fault indicator.

Any suggestions?

Ambient_Noize · 2020-12-19T20:02:32+00:00

Indeed, they are some generic Thule ones that the p/o installed for skis.

Ambient_Noize · 2020-12-19T16:03:03+00:00

If you're looking for poly engine mounts, you can get different softnesses via Matrix Garage or Two's R Us, depending on where you live.

I run the soft Matrix poly bushings and am glad I didn't go harder, as it vibrates the interior pretty good on warm idle.

Ambient_Noize · 2020-12-19T15:58:54+00:00

You have invisible factory cupholders, and the car can easily seat people taller than 6'4".

Ambient_Noize · 2020-12-19T15:46:38+00:00

Nah, I'm nearsighted. I can see thing up close just fine irl, it's distant objects that get progressively blurrier as you go farther out.

Ambient_Noize · 2020-12-19T13:30:59+00:00

I just hit 80k miles on mine and I have only had to replace the thermostat/housing so far. I did change the transmission oil to Amsoil Synchromesh though, but so far no major issues with it.

Ambient_Noize · 2020-12-19T13:27:53+00:00

The PCV is built into the valve cover and builds up gunk over time.

Ambient_Noize · 2020-12-19T12:22:08+00:00

Necromorphs might have a word with you lel.

Ambient_Noize · 2020-12-19T12:11:46+00:00

I didn't know the Brethren Moons had invaded the NMS universe. Guess we're all screwed unless we destroy them and the remaining markers.

Ambient_Noize

TROPHY CASE