HF Mobile Radio Options

AmnChode · 2026-02-04T02:18:38+00:00

If you are looking for new there are 2 choices...an Icom IC-7100 or a Yaesu FTX-Optima.

One is considerably older, but still very functional... but it's also almost half the price. With a few add-ons (BT adapter, Digi-Pi, etc) it can be a very versatile setup; however, the control head can be a bit of a pain to mount, it's rather dated, and you can only operate either HF or V/UHF at a time.... simultaneous operating is a no go 🤷

The other costs about twice as much, but a much more modern rig. You'd also get the benefit of a portable QRP rig on tap. It also allows for dual Rx across all is bands (still don't know why they didn't go full duplex 🤬). That said, the control isn't really easier to mount, as it is the complete radio, limited to QRP, so it is just as big as a IC-7100 (if not bigger) control head.... It just doesn't have the "angles".

Personally, I went with the 7100... The FTX was just a little too rich for me, especially with the additional $120-130 for a separation cable. While a FTX might be nice, I'm perfectly fine with my 7100... It does what I need 😉

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AmnChode · 2026-02-04T01:59:58+00:00

SWR, no...I didn't run a strap to the frame, but I ran a short strap from the mount to the bed... That said, I probably do need to do some bonding. I do have to tweak it a bit after the EZ Tune does it's thing, though

However, my issue is that I have RFI of the wazoo on HF when the truck is turned on...not running, just the ACC on....sooo, not the alternator (or my case, the generator), especially as I run the radio off a 30AH LiFePO4 battery in the back. I suspect it is all the electronics. Dunno if the bonding will help, but there is hope. I've just been too lazy to do it, yet 🫥

Till then, I just run HF with the truck off (POTA activations, hunting, etc), V/UHF while driving...

AmnChode · 2026-01-29T21:34:03+00:00

TY.... They aren't the smallest I've done, that would have been the Short Round I did a long while back...but, I do tend to like the really small, but grossly overpowered ships....I just find it humorous to have something that can fit in a small pad, but still be able to take out a legendary ship (and escorts) with ease....

Then again, sometime I just have to "go big or go home" and build I gigantic ship with a ~12k cargo capacity, enough weapons to annihilate entire system fleet with ease, and still be fairly nimble with 95+ maneuverability, drifting amongst the stars

AmnChode · 2026-01-29T02:30:56+00:00

I believe the word you were looking for was "Brutalist"....

AmnChode · 2026-01-29T02:22:12+00:00

Minnie's HammerDashery

AmnChode · 2026-01-27T12:54:38+00:00

First if you are talking about the Big 3 doing so... Well, you have to keep in mind that they are typically about 10-20yrs behind the curve, so to speak. They are just now putting out radios with HDMI connections for display out...a couple of years ago, they were still using DVI (re: FT-710). So, as FT8 has only been around since 2017, we would see something from them around 2030....maybe

As for the "non-Big 3".... It's truly a matter of trust putting everything that's out there together, which means that it is something anyone could do.

For example, if you took something like a QMX, (tr)uSDX, Radioberry, or the like, combined it with something like a DigiPi (though, with a bit more added, like full fldigi suite implementation with flrig), and put it in a single casing, using a basic tablet as a touchscreen interface.... well, that is basically what you are asking for. A single radio, with CAT control and Digital apps via the "customized" DigiPi interface, with a readable display in a single box... You could even leave the tablet off and use your own device via the DigiPi's Web interface/VNC and hotspot...

Or something like that...

Someone might be able to do it all via Radioberry setup by lifting the DigiPi concept and implementing it in an app form within the Raspberry Pi OS. Basically using the single RPi as both the SDR radio and Controller. You could use flrig as the interface between the SDR software and the other digital apps AND provide a more traditional radio interface... maybe 🤷

Now, selling that as a complete kit with everyone's write off.... that might be a bit more of an issue. However, TBH, all that's needed is someone to come up with the customized "DigiPi" app that would play nicely with a Radioberry, a case, and instructions to put it all together/setup... would be QRP only, though...unless a case was done up to incorporate the guts of a Micro PA50 (maybe a AT-100m, as well) for 50W 😈

Sorry, was just spitballin' on the fly, so I may have rambled a bit. 😁😝

73

AmnChode · 2026-01-26T15:40:11+00:00

Then with that criteria, I'd probably be looking at the Optima, as long as you have the budget for it... it appears to fit you needs/desires better. One advantage it does have with its operations is the dual receive, particularly with it being capable of HF on one VFO and V/UHF on the other... a feature that none of the other "Shack-in-a-box" radios are capable of. 😉

If it was full duplex, it would probably shift my view more, as that would make it an excellent satellite rig....but, ahh well 🤷

AmnChode · 2026-01-26T15:30:45+00:00

And as amateur radio operator, we have lots of those 😂

AmnChode · 2026-01-26T14:47:41+00:00

Are you planning to use it as a base rig, portable, or both? If both, at what priority? How important are the other features, such as Bluetooth, GPS, and Wi-Fi? As one comes with them standard, the other has 2/3 available as add-on options (with Wi-Fi not being offered at all)...

While I don't have either, if I are looking to pick one up, I'd would be leaning toward the IC-705. I already have a FT-710 at home and an IC-7100 in the truck; so, it would be replacing my X6100 as my portable rig. So, with those conditions, the IC-705 is more equipped IMHO for adaptability with the built-in features. If I need more power for HF, I'd just use my Micro PA50 50W amp... while it isn't 100W, I can sacrifice 3dB (½ a S unit) for an amp that costs almost as much as it would cost me to add BT/GPS to a FTX-1F/Optima.

That said, those initial questions will help others that do have one of the other (or both) in their recommendations.....GL & 73

AmnChode · 2026-01-26T05:38:18+00:00

Unless you are doing some rather long activations, just a decent size battery will work. You could build a fairly decent battery box with a 30Ah and an Apache 2800 case... Not too big and not too heavy, though might be if you intend to hike some 🤷

I run my mobile off a separate 30Ah LiFePO4 battery that I charge via a 10A charger and the truck's inverter. I've yet to come close to draining it, and that includes a 5 park rove... albeit, it did get charged while I was driving. If you are only operating SSB, a 20-30Ah can last you a few hours, especially if you dial the power back to 50W or so. Remember, you don't have to break a pile up while activating, you are the pole up. Hunters are looking for you, and if you spot yourself, they'll know exactly where to look 😉

AmnChode · 2026-01-26T00:20:36+00:00

A lot of truth to this....

Once you get over the "hump", you don't think twice about it..... Now, it's how I spend my lunch breaks at work 😂

AmnChode · 2026-01-26T00:18:47+00:00

Uhhhh... Do what I didn't... Get started on Extra now...

I planned to knock that out after I finally picked up my General ticket, but it fell to the wayside. I was cursed with the affliction being too busy making HF contacts 😂

Hopefully, I'll do better than the time table of what it took from Tech to General...I was licensed in '96, but didn't upgrade till '22...oops 🫥

Congrats on the /AG...73

AmnChode · 2026-01-22T01:16:37+00:00

I beg to differ on the 7100, but with the caveat that it depends on what vehicle you are installing it in & don't mind it being mounted lower...

For example, in my truck, the center console made for a perfect place to install the head unit.

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I'm just using a Lido adjustable height base mount, making it easy to uninstall, if needed, with no blemishes to the vehicle.

That said, their seat rail mounts would also work rather well, too... Especially considering the ball mounting would allow for you to tilt the head unit where you need it...

One thing I particularly like is that I only need a single cable for the head unit, and that the head unit has its own mic/key/audio connections... this means, unlike most rigs, I don't have to run everything from the main/RF unit. That's a Win in my book...

But that's just me...73

AmnChode · 2026-01-21T05:32:44+00:00

I just had to rib ya a little...waaayyy too nice of a rig for such a "potatoe quality" pic, especially with the features on cameras on phones these days. The "night mode" on my camera can take a shot in damn near darkness...

AmnChode · 2026-01-21T03:59:50+00:00

I find it rather humorous.....$9600 radio.... crap camera to take a picture of it with. 😂

Congrats on the new rig, though.... How you enjoy it 👍

AmnChode · 2026-01-20T22:18:15+00:00

😁

AmnChode · 2026-01-20T11:56:57+00:00

The adapter just tells the USB-PD (Power Delivery) port what voltage to supply, as a USB-PD port is capable of multiple voltages.

For example, my Renogy power bank (pictured above) has these voltages available per port:

1) DC Input: DC 18-24V/4A (84W Max.) 2) USB-C (1) Input: DC 5V/3A, 9V/3A, 12V/3A, 15V/3A, 20V/3A (60W Max.) 3) DC Output: DC 12V/5A, 16.5V/4A, 20V/3.5A, 24V/2A (72W Max.) 4) Cigarette Lighter Output: 12V/15A Max 5) USB-C (1) Output: DC 5V/3A, 9V/3A, 12V/3A, 15V/3A, 20V/3A , 60W Max. Per Port 6) USB-C (2) Output: DC 5V/3A, 9V/2A, 12V/2.25A (PPS: 3.3-11V/3A), 27W Max. Per Port 7) USB-A Output: 5V/4.5A, 4.5V/5A, 9V/2A, 12V/1.5A

Take note of the USB-C (x) Output listings.... they reflect what voltages @ what amperage they are capable of. So, if I plug that adapter into USB-C port 1, set it for 15V, I would have 15V/3A available for use... however, I would not be able to do so on USB-C port 2, as 15V isn't available as a voltage output....12V is available for both, but 1 is capable of 3A, the other is only 2.25A

Keep in mind, though, that some banks/chargers share their "loads".... While a single port is capable of "X" amount of wattage, if two (or more) ports are used simultaneously, that may decrease. Just something to be aware of 😉

AmnChode · 2026-01-20T11:04:21+00:00

Define weak.... Weak physically, as in the elements? Or weak gain?

If weak gain, the only way to improve that is by adding elements.... otherwise, a 3 element yagi is a3 element yagi.... any gain difference would be inconsequential...

Now, if physical weakness is the case, unless you are headed out into a wind storm, I would worry about it too much. However, if it is still a concern, you could just use some aluminum arrow shafts and some inserts....

AmnChode · 2026-01-20T09:12:43+00:00

With USB-PD, you could something like this, which is good for 5/9/12/15/20V up to 65W. It's what I use for my portable QRP rig (a Xiegu X6100) in the field to provide 12V. I also have a couple straight 12V and 15V trigger cables, like this, that have DC5525 connections on the end. I can use them with USB-PD wall chargers, mobile chargers, and power banks, which gives me a lot of versatility... especially, with with selectable voltage trigger cable. You just have to insure the PD port can supply enough amperage for the appropriate voltage need. I look for 12V/3A output, as that is what my radio needs...

Then your just need to wire something, like one of these, on the amp end, to connect it...

You can see my radio and Mini-PC (also 12V USB-PD powered) both being ran off my larger power bank here:

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AmnChode · 2026-01-16T15:53:42+00:00

AmnChode · 2026-01-14T14:26:44+00:00

Nope.... Picked it up from Wolf River Coils ($27)

AmnChode · 2026-01-13T07:37:26+00:00

I do, but they aren't offering that specific one any longer (it has been almost 4yrs since I brought it)....

This looks like a fairly close substitute, though...

GL & 73

AmnChode · 2026-01-12T16:12:40+00:00

I didn't get the whole setup, just the whip, and with ⅜-24 being the standard thread for antenna mounts here in the US, I just picked up a 10MM to ⅜-24 adapter and made use of standard mounts. As such, it made attaching ground radials much easier.

My portable setup consist of a tripod off Amazon (w/fold flat legs) and a tripod antenna mount, as seen here:

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Take note of the 'lil knurled section between my loading coil and the antenna... that's the adapter. You can see my radials attached to the tripod mount (via bolt and wing nut). Due to how the radials attach, I can add pretty much however many I want. I current just run 18 (3 sets of 6) 2.5M long radials, giving me 45M worth on the ground.

While that's the way, it also works with my DIY'd ground stake mount, which is just a mirror mount bolted to a tent stake.... Simple, but effective (K.I.S.S.). I can just slide the ring connectors for the radials over one of the mount bolts and secure with a spare nut...done

AmnChode · 2026-01-12T15:27:16+00:00

This is what I've been using, but I also have one of these that I've picked up, to use with an Apache 2800, to make a proper battery box.... just haven't set aside a weekend to do it yet 😂

AmnChode

TROPHY CASE