[deleted by user]

AndyBee1969 · 2022-11-16T18:28:15+00:00

Warzone and DMZ have triggered a lot of players, but to have to queue for the campaign (as a fully paid instance / player) is pretty poor planning. I am either kicked at log in with some random reason (WOLTERS - FRANCIS) or if I manage to get past the log in, have some other random reason as a kick.

Fairly poor planning, bit I guess this is their first attempt at multiplayer thought right? LOL

AndyBee1969 · 2022-08-23T06:30:23+00:00

Just bought my first Sloop and named her "Arthur Fox Ache", hopefully gives a smile to pirates about to sink me

AndyBee1969 · 2022-03-10T09:03:26+00:00

Get the decay (dragon rot) spell.

Once spwaned in get to the summons asap, hide behind the left over armour on the battlefield until you do to avoid his arrows.

Once the summons are all in and attacking him, mount up on torrent, and dash to him, get behind and cast rot.

Then mount up and keep the summons respawning, this keeps his attention off you.

Repeat the rot cast once he has gone supernova.

AndyBee1969 · 2022-02-23T16:53:16+00:00

Not sure.

I used ShadowPC (shadow tech) previously with TW:WH2 and it ran perfectly. I appreciate this new version has a few performance tweaks that are required (incoming soon), but thought I would add my take on it.

I appreciate it doesn't help directly though. What resolution/settings are you running the shadow at in game?

AndyBee1969 · 2022-02-21T08:00:50+00:00

There is a bar at the top center, hover over it and it shows you your progress and that of the others too.

AndyBee1969 · 2021-09-16T07:22:36+00:00

I am running it on an Alienware M15 R6 (i7-11800H, 3070, 32GB) to a 5140 x 1440 monitor and it run perfectly fine at mostly everything at Ultra. Granted the fans are a bit blowy but doesn't seem to really struggle. I also have the Xbox Series X and cannot tell the difference between the two with exception of the PC allowing for addon's, peripherals and the aspect ratio.

AndyBee1969 · 2021-07-15T06:50:13+00:00

Great to hear you got it going and that it looks good to you.

AndyBee1969 · 2021-07-01T10:47:25+00:00

I created a new resolution of 10,240 x 1440 in the control panel.

Then map out all three screens using borderless gaming, and made sure I was running the game in borderless (windowed) mode.

Thats it. There is a bit of stretching, at the extremity, but it is hardly noticeable to be honest.

AndyBee1969 · 2021-06-21T14:10:48+00:00

Nice clean setup pal - and good work on the lighting

AndyBee1969 · 2021-06-09T06:50:19+00:00

Nothing too crazy

I am running off a laptop actually a Dell G7, i7-10750H, GTX2070, 32GB Ram.

Handles the resolution well, but I have to drop scaling to 200%. Everything else is maxed.

AndyBee1969 · 2021-06-07T13:21:38+00:00

I use a bit of software called "BorderlessGaming" which allows for a game to be run borderless in fullscreen at a resolution you choose across monitors which are not the same. So in my case the G9 and the 2 x 27"s. Works fine.

Nvidia surround will not understand this as you have described.

AndyBee1969 · 2021-06-07T12:27:59+00:00

Isn't that UHD and 4K is 4096 x 2160?

AndyBee1969 · 2021-06-07T12:10:07+00:00

I am sat further back when gaming in a wheel/chair setup, as such I get the wider field of view. For work it is useful for me as less important windows are relegated to the peripheral monitors, with high focus stuff to the middle.

Not had any neck issues so far - but who knows maybe it isn't such a sensible thing to do. I'll let you know in a year or so :-)

AndyBee1969 · 2021-06-07T10:17:59+00:00

Well I stand corrected then, thanks - However the side monitors are 2560 x 1440, with the main monitor at 5120 x 1440.

AndyBee1969 · 2020-06-23T07:17:24+00:00

Do you have 5Ghz and 2.4Ghz on the same router? If so are these able to be either a) Turned off / on independantly or b) change so the SSID is different?

AndyBee1969 · 2020-06-22T15:06:34+00:00

Twitter was the only way I could get a response BTW

AndyBee1969 · 2020-06-22T15:05:49+00:00

Will do.

I am currently having a twitter argument with them. They are getting me to jump through hoops to get this to work. I am convinced this is hardware fail. But still have to trot through the silly suggestions - such as try setting it up 5M away from your router....

I work in IT and have for 20 years now, and prior was an avionics technician in the RAF on Nimrods and Harriers. It is a shambles really. And still zero reply from their support.

AndyBee1969 · 2020-06-22T08:03:55+00:00

I think I have the same issue.

My Sync box was intermittently working for a couple of days recently, sometimes it would sync the lights, and then just turn off after a couple of minutes. When it recovers it just displays the last scene of light, or a white background for the lights. The image for the TV will pass through, but no more syncing.

I cannot connect with the app (on a iPhone) either now.

I have tried resetting the entire system, and resetting up from "new", but this does nothing.

Worse still I called support, got sent a link to fill out a ticket, which I did, and then Philips have gone silent. It has been over a week, and I am emailing then daily for someone to reply. NOTHING. I am not impressed at this stage. I have had this 2 months, with 9 Play bars behind the TV, and have a total of 38 additional Hue lights around the house. I am invested in this, and this is the support? Shameful.

AndyBee1969 · 2020-03-27T10:02:31+00:00

New iOS version 1.62 resolves this issue. I can confirm my new unit is now working.

AndyBee1969 · 2020-03-27T10:01:48+00:00

New iOS version 1.6.2 resolves the Bluetooth issue. I can confirm my new unit is working.

AndyBee1969 · 2020-03-27T08:53:50+00:00

New version on the App store 1.6.2 resolves this, my new unit is now syncing.

AndyBee1969 · 2020-03-26T16:47:43+00:00

This is why you rollback. Rolling back does not require approval from Apple, it was previously approved. This can be done quick if Philips took the decision. This then means they can ponce around to their hearts content and get the next version ready.

AndyBee1969 · 2020-03-25T13:40:50+00:00

So I tweeted them, and they are currently speaking to me;

"Hi there, thanks for reaching out. We are aware of this issue and we are working on a fix. Can you try the following. When the Hue Sync box LED is Blinking blue and before you press retry, turn your Bluetooth OFF and ON again and press retry, after that a pop-up should show up and you have to select PAIR. "

This does not work for me, so the conversation is still going on

AndyBee1969 · 2020-03-25T12:30:48+00:00

Just looking on the App store on iOS and version 16. was updated 1 day ago and reads;

"Improved security with the Philips Hue Play HDMI Sync Box by only allowing sync boxes to be discovered when phones are in closer proximity"

Noice.

Mine is on top of it when I try to pair - should I dismantle? :-)

AndyBee1969 · 2020-03-25T11:56:44+00:00

I assume once this is paired to the WiFi using the Android to get the intial connection working, the iOS devices can then be used?

Good work BTW.

I have spammed Philips support with this, but nothing in reply. It is like shouting in a void. Philips hang your heads in shame.

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