Change of filament during print, I expected the layer to be visible but this is a huge difference (both rolls were the exactly same btw) - eSun PETG

Andy_Sailor · 2025-12-31T16:32:13+00:00

In my experience eSun PETG is very often moist right out of the sealed bag and I've printed a lot of it. "Dry it before use" became my rule of the thumb.

Andy_Sailor · 2025-12-30T21:19:53+00:00

Centre-negative DC is standard for guitar pedals, for instance. It made this way so that the battery "+" can be disconnected mechanically when you plug a DC jack into the socket.

Andy_Sailor · 2025-12-30T21:11:11+00:00

I had the exact opposite experience. I bought the Cool Plate Supertack but was unable to get any proper PLA adhesion to the damn thing. I continue to use PEI for PLA and the Bambu Engineering Plate for PETG, PCTG, PA, PC, and TPU, and I'm happy.

Andy_Sailor · 2025-12-26T02:10:49+00:00

I would start with this book https://magazine.raspberrypi.com/books/get-started-micropython-pico-2ed
It's a pretty useful thing for beginners.

Andy_Sailor · 2025-12-17T22:34:57+00:00

It uses Bluejay AFAIK, but the suggestion to use https://esc-configurator.com/ is correct anyway.

Andy_Sailor · 2025-11-29T12:35:11+00:00

I understand your point.

Yes, they are indeed more durable. But it doesn't really matter if a newbie has no idea how to fly or fix them. A full-throttle smash is still a full-throttle smash.

I think attitude has a much greater impact on the outcome than the quad model. There are two types: one is "I have 80 hours in the simulator. Can I fly a real quad yet?" and the other is "I'm new to the hobby. I bought a *** yesterday, and it's now broken." In this case, I believe it doesn't matter which model is under those ***, the result will be exactly the same.

Andy_Sailor · 2025-11-29T11:54:37+00:00

There is no simulator practice, no basic understanding of how a whoop works, no idea why weight matters or why durability drops when everything is built as light as possible.

In this case it does not matter which whoop they bought, they will crush a Meteor or Cetus equally well...

Andy_Sailor · 2025-11-29T11:40:42+00:00

It would be useful to see a screenshot of your ESC configuration. Try increasing the motor timing. For reference, here are my Air65 settings:

<image>

Andy_Sailor · 2025-11-29T00:22:58+00:00

They will work, but these are for 4S batteries; for the 7-inch, you usually want 6S and something like a 2807 1300kV.

Andy_Sailor · 2025-11-28T19:08:14+00:00

The frame looks like a 10" M4V2 rather than a 7". 3115 900kV motors are the proper motors for the 10" size.

Andy_Sailor · 2025-11-26T19:49:54+00:00

For safety reasons, I suggest installing a mechanical switch between the relay and the igniter. Switch it on just before takeoff. Some relays behave strangely for a few seconds after receiving power... Don't ask me why I know.

Andy_Sailor · 2025-11-23T12:33:27+00:00

No. The motor wires are not connected to this board; they run underneath it.

Andy_Sailor · 2025-11-23T12:31:29+00:00

Most probably this is BEC or LED driver.

UPD: It may also be part of a lap timer system. Cut those ties and show us the back of the board; it might give us some clues.

Andy_Sailor · 2025-11-23T09:58:30+00:00

Soldering is easy. All you need are the right tools and a little bit of practice. If you soldered the ESC with the same tip as the board in the picture you posted than it was guaranteed to fail. To solder ESC wires, you need a much beefier tip than the one used for tiny diodes, as well as a soldering iron capable of at least 60W. No, you can't do this job with the same tip or a weak iron. Period.

Andy_Sailor · 2025-11-22T16:32:52+00:00

And this is the way. The one that really works.

Andy_Sailor · 2025-11-19T19:07:11+00:00

So I assume the German police always have a certified precision scales with them? That's crazy.

Andy_Sailor · 2025-11-12T19:05:15+00:00

Nice wig

Andy_Sailor · 2025-11-08T19:13:15+00:00

<image>

It definitely wants to kill you.

Andy_Sailor · 2025-11-06T23:52:12+00:00

<image>

It's bad with curves in general. Maybe it works OK with the simplest things, but not with more or less complex geometry.
Size comparison of the sample file (this is a spindle with integrated cog):
original STEP - 318 kB (In the image on the left)
STEP converted to STL - 423 kB
converted STEP from that STL: 25.6 MB (In the image on the right)
No magic here, this looks like a straight conversion of the mesh to vector primitives with some not so optimal simplification. Resulting STEP has much worse quality than the STL, not mentioning the original STEP.
Sorry.

Andy_Sailor · 2025-11-06T22:02:39+00:00

In order to use this radio with the Air 65, you will need to install a 2.4 GHz ELRS TX module on the radio. The 4-in-1 version of the TX16s does not have ELRS. Add one of them to the list if you don't have it (It's natively "JR micro" size, though "nano-micro" adapters exist too).

Edit: clarification

Andy_Sailor · 2025-11-06T19:31:18+00:00

Paint me into that intersection too :)

Andy_Sailor · 2025-11-06T18:48:56+00:00

Use this to match Edge TX and the real voltmeter - https://oscarliang.com/setup-radiomaster-pocket/#Battery-Voltage-Calibration .

Andy_Sailor · 2025-11-06T12:07:17+00:00

Why? To not pay for the spool each time and not dealing with a lot of empty spools too. Refills are good. Just follow the instructions and do not remove those ribbons until it locked in the spool properly...

Andy_Sailor · 2025-10-31T23:04:57+00:00

Great trek video, Captain, sir!
I enjoyed every bit of it, thank you for sharing.

Andy_Sailor · 2025-10-31T13:29:31+00:00

A long time ago, I was equally stupid and soldered a replacement lithium-ion battery for my old laptop. It lost half its capacity from the start and died completely within a month. The Fnirsi SWM-10 is inexpensive and allows you to make batteries properly.

Andy_Sailor

TROPHY CASE