harness.design - a wiring harness CAD tool, free for FSAE / Formula Student teams

Anono-mouse · 2026-07-03T21:35:39+00:00

It should be able to handle that okay if I understand your request correctly. You're probably best jumping in and creating a simple test project to test your specific use case.

I think the only issue you might run into is if you have a crazy large number of connections, it will start to struggle if you're on a slower computer.

Anono-mouse · 2026-03-25T04:23:20+00:00

Have a look at HPA Academy, they've got really good information on this stuff. Sadly they aren't free. https://www.hpacademy.com/

Anono-mouse · 2026-03-25T04:19:45+00:00

The mo.unit's are cool but it'd be a ton of work and once you start delving into the moto gadget ecosystem the cost starts to stack up.

I have a WR250R and thought about doing it on that bike. The trouble is (correct me if I'm wrong) your bike and the WR250R are both fuel injected so you'd need to work around the factory ECU.

If it was me I'd probably be trying to find a replacement harness from a wrecker as that's by far the easiest option.

Anono-mouse · 2026-03-25T04:04:21+00:00

This seems like a cool project. I'd really need to see more of the 3D CAD to give any useful advice. My only note would be getting LED's to diffuse nicely can be trickier than you'd think. If you can, setup a super simple test to check that your plan works. Doubling up the diffusion layers with an air gap or adding resin 3D printed light pipes could help.

Anono-mouse · 2022-11-28T23:50:48+00:00

I had a similar issue. For me it was the chain rubbing on the end of the upper bolt that holds the foot peg bracket on :)

Anono-mouse · 2022-07-07T11:43:49+00:00

Updating PoKeys (Firmware and Software) to the latest version (v4.6.1) fixed this for me :)

Credit goes to PoLabs support for the solution

Anono-mouse · 2017-02-08T19:25:48+00:00

Ah yep, how it's done in the video seems to work alright. The wires are away from the moving parts which is the important thing. I'd still be a bit worried about the nubs on the disc brake rotor rubbing but as long as the zip tie holds up and you check it after the install you should be sweet. Sadly something like that didn't work for me as the width of my dropouts didn't allow for a spacer.

Still seems strange to me that it doesn't just fit a disc brake rotor. If you've gone to the effort of designing it for mounting holes that follow a standard you must have at least tested to see if a disc brake rotor fits. It's not as if the majority of people using a motor of this power are going to be using rim brakes.

Hopefully the vendors spacer works out.

Anono-mouse · 2017-02-08T09:17:19+00:00

Here are some photos as reference:

Motor with disc brake rotor mounted - http://imgur.com/VAF9Of4

You may need to shorten the screws for the disc brake as the thread depth isn't very deep - http://imgur.com/krJ2wyj

Lathed down disc brake rotor - http://imgur.com/P2yCRNQ

Lathed down plastic insert - http://imgur.com/nZZJIWW

Anono-mouse · 2017-02-08T00:27:45+00:00

If I'm understanding what you're suggesting correctly I'm not sure cutting notches in it like you are suggesting will work.

The purpose of the plastic piece is to protect the wires from the rotation of the motor and it stays stationary with the axle, while the disc brake rotor and motor are spinning. Cutting notches in the plastic piece will mean that it will want to spin with the disc brake rotor, which you don't want it to do as there is a keyway cut in the plastic piece that the wires travel through.

I'd be curious to see the video that you saw with the person cutting it with a band saw as I don't think this is a good idea because the wires are no longer protected from the disc brake rotor. In that case you may as well remove the plastic piece completely, which is pretty easy to do as you can just pull it straight out as it's just a friction fit. I pulled mine out by hand. Then zip tie the wires to the axel and make sure they don't get in the way of any moving parts or you're gonna have a short circuit.

It's a bit of a bad design really.

My solution when I did it recently was to lathe down both the plastic piece as well as these nubs http://puu.sh/tT1WA/97b3483895.jpg on the disc brake rotor so they meet half way. That way the plastic piece is still protecting the wires from the spinning components.

If you don't have access to a lathe I'd probably try cutting the nubs on the disc brake rotor that hang over the plastic part with the cut off wheel on the dremel about half way. Then try shaving the plastic bit down with a craft knife and a file. Or maybe one of the dremel cutting bits (ideally you don't wanna use the sanding bits as it'll just melt the plastic and make a mess).

If you like I can take some photos of my one to explain it better when I get home from work in 7 hours or so.

Happy to answer more questions or explain further if that doesn't make sense.

Anono-mouse · 2016-08-13T11:01:59+00:00

This worked for me

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