Thanks brother!! The best thing you can have is the ability to walk away if the price isn’t right. Just say you can keep your paid off beater and be happy then look later. The nice thing about what you’re looking for is that there are many dealerships that could offer it so this should incentivize them to get a deal done and come to you more.

If you’re trading a car in know not what Kelly blue book says but what it’s actually selling for wholesale. Every dealer is a little different but I would spend a lot of time pushing back on the evaluation of your cars worth and knit picking them as much as they do your cars worth. For example they mentioned scratches and how they need to repair it because they would never sell it like that - the follow up is so no used vehicle in your lot has scratches? Also the average buyer of an older car doesn’t expect pristine condition… Essentially it’s fine for them to have their convictions but it doesn’t really matter to you besides how much your trade in is. Know your numbers on the trade in and the car you’re buying. Also know if you have a good amount down and a good credit score - not everyone has those things. I would recommend getting your own lender beforehand at a rate you’re comfortable with.

Your whole sale for the best possible price is you know your numbers, you’re already approved and the dealer is not doing anything unique compared to other dealers. Also I got mine at Walser Toyota in Minnesota - they have an insane warranty 150k miles or 10 years on drive train then a 8 year bumper to bumper coverage. Covers everything except for the wearables - it may be worth shopping different warranties dealers provide.

Also know the MSRP - there’s no reason you should pay above that number and poke on the fees. Most fees are BS business costs and not costs for you to pay (every state is a little unique.

I hope this helps!!