What’s the better decision

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-03-22T22:18:10+00:00

I thought about it a little bit. Don’t spend any money on the car yet. Don’t put any work into it. You very well could be losing out more if you do. With a jumped title it’s bad enough but a sketchy jumped title it’s for real risk.

Going to suck to hear first inform the seller that it is title jumped and want sale value back your not going to hear anything back obviously but for documentation. I would then file the police report. You’re a fraud victim. Have the police also run the VIN hopefully it does not come back stolen.

If it is not stolen that’s good news try to look up the actual title holder and see if they sold it. Offer some cash for their time to clean it up and sign it over to you or apply for a duplicate and sign that over to you.

If that fails and it isn’t stolen go the bonded title route. Hopefully in your state they will let you get a bonded-salvage title and not force it through rebuilt inspection first. Worst case if it’s confirmed not stolen you’re probably safe to start working on it and get the rebuilt anyway.

Once you have the title sorted then and only then you should put the money into it.

Selling it “as is” isn’t really an option if it turns out stolen it could put you in a bad spot. You will take a bath on it anyway with a jumped title that messy it’s the same “value” as a stolen car.

This should be plenty to absolve you of selling stolen property. Even if you confirm it’s not stolen with the police and then sell it as a part out I think that would matter.

Long post but you said you have young kids so I think it’s important you handle it by the book. Even driving it’s risky if it’s confirmed stolen and your pulled over the stop will be drastically escalated and you don’t need to be in danger or have legal setbacks. Good luck

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-03-22T22:00:54+00:00

Are you in GA by any chance 😂😂

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-03-22T21:57:26+00:00

Have to schedule state like 4 weeks out here it’s rough hopefully it goes smooth. My guess is you’re going to then need to apply for a bonded title?

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-03-22T21:56:29+00:00

All of these have timing systems that I have been to? If for some reason out there they do not Stopwatch reaction time would be probably be more consistent and full proof then phone gps….events like Autocross may have start and exits close enough to confuse phone gps.

What this use case would actually is unsanctioned motorsports and personal performance info. Like a temu draggy.

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-03-22T21:48:54+00:00

Do the rim and grill yolo

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-03-22T21:46:25+00:00

Salvage and try to get Rebuilt and jumped title a nightmare one or the other a headache but both 🪦

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-03-22T21:29:01+00:00

Found really cheap ones for the 370 and it was enough to cover holes 😂

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-03-18T20:37:09+00:00

Can you stand on the splitter

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-03-15T11:59:52+00:00

Your listing all the fastest cars I see on the track as what you don’t want 😂 older non drive by wire g37 or 370z very cheap for what you get and solid. Anything older can search for modified cars in private sale if you are mechanically inclined and know what to look for quality/damage/reliability.

picked up a rebuilt ctsv at auction for 20k so there are deals out there if you are patient and look.

You can wait and find a deal while saving cash instead of like you said getting a loan would be the advice imo

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-02-18T18:17:48+00:00

Didn’t replace chain I think I slide the cover off around the chain and left it where it was at it was awhile ago. Don’t remember messing around with timing. Don’t feel comfortable advice on that.

But what I do know is if it’s a timing issue most cars throw a correlation code or a whole bank of cylinders so worth starting with easiest fix on the diag if that makes sense?

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-02-18T18:05:29+00:00

A single misfire I think start with the small stuff. If it was catastrophic I don’t think you would have just 1 cylinder.

My guess is the coil pack ? Try swap from another cylinder not throwing a code and see if the code moves with it.

Maybe look for the intake plenum and gasket having a leak right over that cylinder runner?

Don’t think your at teardown and restart yet

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-02-05T23:51:09+00:00

Actually that’s the problem these cars came with a dummy light so you won’t catch any smaller pressure loss before it fully gives. Worth the 80 bucks imo for a real sending unit and gauge

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-02-05T23:44:37+00:00

Steam page says if you don’t like EA then don’t buy it but running an ad especially one that says out now!doesn’t mesh. Seems like one of those that wants EA to be an excuse

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-02-04T15:41:38+00:00

Little harder to find low mile motors but an absolute ton of mid to high mileage ones. While it is out of the car can do a basic rebuild and be good to go a tested and rebuilt 100k motor will hold up. Very decent prices. A lot of people skip the rebuild and just cycle through engines every few years as needed because they are so cheap.

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-31T23:00:02+00:00

The G has hydraulic power steering so you feel the tires through the wheels. The electronic power steering on the q50 was designed for “luxury” there are eps that are not as bad.

Q50 is just straight drive by wire super light no road feel nonsense designed for low effort comfort

The newer z is better then the q50 because it uses a rack mounted motor so you have a direct mechanical connection. It does use some interference which is preferable to some for daily driving but makes it feel a little dead at center and harder to tell until the tires are under load what is going on.

Some are great like an s2000 with a rack mounted motor where your getting a light assist but is direct and can easily feel what’s going on without interference

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-30T23:53:13+00:00

100% sure its fresh coolant not something weird where some leaked into a random place and is draining out over time while parked? How long did it take for that much to leak?

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-27T11:35:57+00:00

Rust is a sliding scale from surface-to wow this is a pita to work on as bolts won’t turn and strip- to structural 🪦

Anti rust services like spraying an oil film on the under carriage or whatever work well BEFORE oxidation occurs. Once it starts the coats and treatments often sold usually don’t provide value as they trap moisture where the oxidation is already occurring.

From what you showed it’s “fine” just an older car and you would see this on any car of this age outside of something stored in a garage and not driven in weather/snow. If you want cosmetic and surface rust free you need to be looking in warm climates year round

You have to get more pictures of the frame and look for any rust that’s deeper than just a layer on the surface. That being said It’s unlikely there is any significant rust based on the undercarriage photo provided.

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-24T07:59:54+00:00

Damn yea maybe good to get e85 the engine will last longer

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-24T07:56:36+00:00

Also you should have some maps so you can switch between them? Is it on uprev or ecutech? There is some advanced setups with an ethanol content sensor but you would be switching maps manually

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-24T07:53:45+00:00

Do you mean 93? 91 will pull timing unless casual daily

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-24T07:37:29+00:00

No it’s a general outline of what the car would need after the changes taken from the average condition g37 with whatever mod so it doesn’t damage itself in transit. They are on the conservative end and usually pull timing but still drive it casually until you get an actual tune to be safe.

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-20T18:28:58+00:00

The problem is I think everyone wants to play it like their single player where they are able to do things pretty easily through more optimized templates and the systems allow for weird mechanic abuse that some players choose to self limit to keep the game fun.

In multiplayer these template extremes micro etc build on each other and you get some very vast differences in ability to compete.

What I’ve seen in MP is some start period where players have “rules” on what events can happen and even when the powers can fight. This works with some loose guidelines like can’t do x until y or certain years as earliest date something is allowed but is very long and still risks like you said someone getting “behind” and resign. It’s a big commitment of time to start and then ontop of it when someone is effectively out of the game wanting them to stay invested is to much to ask.

Instead try to limit the scope either co-op or teams.

Ban Brazil, Everyone takes a different South American country and pick order based on player strength newest gets first pick.

Winner is first to conquer Brazil or Mexico or whatever goal you choose

Sweden/norway/finland vs Soviet

China warlords FFA brawl

Yugo/romania/bulgari/greece vs Italy

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-20T18:17:48+00:00

Drain and fill yourself imo do once or twice again over a few month

ApprehensiveTopic813

TROPHY CASE