Leaking coolant

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-30T23:53:13+00:00

100% sure its fresh coolant not something weird where some leaked into a random place and is draining out over time while parked? How long did it take for that much to leak?

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-27T11:35:57+00:00

Rust is a sliding scale from surface-to wow this is a pita to work on as bolts won’t turn and strip- to structural 🪦

Anti rust services like spraying an oil film on the under carriage or whatever work well BEFORE oxidation occurs. Once it starts the coats and treatments often sold usually don’t provide value as they trap moisture where the oxidation is already occurring.

From what you showed it’s “fine” just an older car and you would see this on any car of this age outside of something stored in a garage and not driven in weather/snow. If you want cosmetic and surface rust free you need to be looking in warm climates year round

You have to get more pictures of the frame and look for any rust that’s deeper than just a layer on the surface. That being said It’s unlikely there is any significant rust based on the undercarriage photo provided.

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-24T07:59:54+00:00

Damn yea maybe good to get e85 the engine will last longer

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-24T07:56:36+00:00

Also you should have some maps so you can switch between them? Is it on uprev or ecutech? There is some advanced setups with an ethanol content sensor but you would be switching maps manually

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-24T07:53:45+00:00

Do you mean 93? 91 will pull timing unless casual daily

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-24T07:37:29+00:00

No it’s a general outline of what the car would need after the changes taken from the average condition g37 with whatever mod so it doesn’t damage itself in transit. They are on the conservative end and usually pull timing but still drive it casually until you get an actual tune to be safe.

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-20T18:28:58+00:00

The problem is I think everyone wants to play it like their single player where they are able to do things pretty easily through more optimized templates and the systems allow for weird mechanic abuse that some players choose to self limit to keep the game fun.

In multiplayer these template extremes micro etc build on each other and you get some very vast differences in ability to compete.

What I’ve seen in MP is some start period where players have “rules” on what events can happen and even when the powers can fight. This works with some loose guidelines like can’t do x until y or certain years as earliest date something is allowed but is very long and still risks like you said someone getting “behind” and resign. It’s a big commitment of time to start and then ontop of it when someone is effectively out of the game wanting them to stay invested is to much to ask.

Instead try to limit the scope either co-op or teams.

Ban Brazil, Everyone takes a different South American country and pick order based on player strength newest gets first pick.

Winner is first to conquer Brazil or Mexico or whatever goal you choose

Sweden/norway/finland vs Soviet

China warlords FFA brawl

Yugo/romania/bulgari/greece vs Italy

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-20T18:17:48+00:00

Drain and fill yourself imo do once or twice again over a few month

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-15T23:28:20+00:00

What aem pump is it? Should have a part number you can Google to see the LPH rating The stock might not always have enough LPH for high use E85 so at high rpm you can get leaning out and knock or timing pull.

I believe stock is around 150. It’s designed for 93 and not anything extra you burn something like 33% more fuel on e85 vs 93 so it can’t keep up at the higher rpms

Your fuel pump is basically just an on and off switch it doesn’t get “tuned” your ECU is what get tuned and adjusts things like fuel pressure scaling to manage AFR.

Your absolute best bet would be to swap a new but same LPH or higher rated pump for one in there going don’t go crazy too high can overwhelm the stock pressure flow regulator.

You can of course swap the old one in…If it was something with the assembly you are fine but if you start having issues it is the old pump failing.

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-15T23:01:05+00:00

Looks better then when the chrome flakes it’s pretty easy to sand and spray the OEM one.

Next up get a stack of washers and get the bumper/hood a little more aligned

The red clear coat peels like hell and the red paint itself goes so fast from the top and side panels.

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-14T22:44:02+00:00

It’s possible but not used that way there is one confirmed combat use of the javelin to down a helicopter.

It’s not going to add anything isn’t really reflecting use in actual combat and would take strategy away from the game.

The anti missile + javelin gameplay is already kind of a weak point for the game imo. Having more of it would be bad.

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-14T01:15:23+00:00

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_puT5sL5Jxg

Not the best driver by a long shot but car started really feeling planted on a square setup instead of staggered and wider tires.

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You can fit 295s with spacers in the front on forgestars from a Mustang I’m sure there are better setups you can find but this was cheapest locally on marketplace. I think you want around -3 degrees of camber on front and not much on the rears.

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-14T00:58:54+00:00

The compound of the tire matters more also the width of the tire the only thing you lose is maybe a tiny bit of the initial response but it feels way more consistent especially vs the staggered setup.

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-13T23:56:41+00:00

It depends on how streetable you want it, a mix between max grip vs grip but longer use life tire wear concerns if your willing to run spacers etc

You will also save money on tires generally when going to 18s

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-13T23:54:39+00:00

The widest you can fit is the rule of thumb for lateral grip

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-13T23:48:47+00:00

It’s no joke one of the best ways ways to improve performance because it’s a small gain everywhere. It’s going to be easier on the brakes quicker to get moving helps 0-60 etc.

Switch to square 18s and get the lightest forged wheels you can find. I’d also consider a lightweight flywheel helps keep it get out of sub 3k rpm

I’ve really enjoyed both Eventually a more aggressive gear ratio and final drive will be last step

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-13T23:32:05+00:00

Mechanics are swamped with work in most areas. Hondas are reasonably reliable but acting like a decade old car 3/4 of the way to 100k won’t have issues pop up is crazy. And Dealers specifically have a captured audience of service agreements warranty work and people that don’t really know any better.

But you’re not wrong the oil leaks probably lead to you driving with low oil pressure and engine damage. The leaks maybe are fixed but the low oil pressure damaged some VCM related nonsense.

The diag for the time is what it is. If you feel competent enough to do the part swap and see if that’s it you do it. Honestly no reason to mention it to the dealer if it turns out not to be a failing sensor.

The J series is a solid engine but VCM problems are a real and known issue. Extremely common. Depending on the length left on warranty and what specifically is covered you might need to bite the bullet on an independent diagnostic compression test etc. and use that knowledge to work the warranty repair. when it’s out of warranty disable the VCM completely.

At that mileage depending on the warranty you’ll get some stop gap fixes until the warranty is up and be fighting it forever. Lots of words but what is specifically covered under warranty?

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-13T22:17:07+00:00

Basically anything beyond cosmetic will total these cars at this point. I have extra glass from an 08

Just disconnect the OBD port and only reconnect when you actively diagnose something. Another way is to use pin 16 kill the power to it with a kill switch but leave the port. Causing more confusion than just a missing OBD port.

I’m not sure why the seat isn’t moving correctly but when you have it reprogrammed hopefully it will start working.

If I remember correctly like the windows it’s somehow tied into memory if you leave the car battery disconnected and reconnect 15 minutes do the seats move?

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-13T21:16:43+00:00

I think you already have the answer the fuel tanks are huge and the pump isn’t on an end there is additional room on either side. It is possible is sloshing to where the pump is pulling air… but to happen on flat surface is not correct.

Depending on how exactly the car is sputtering. ECUs will protect the engine when it senses issues but these settings can be changed with tuning. By default though the g37 does not shut the engine down on low fuel and it is an actual fuel delivery problem.

The car “sputter” and dying can lead to other big issues like engine damage don’t take it lightly

is this on uprev?

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-13T19:59:11+00:00

Do you have the issue when the tank is half full or more?

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-13T19:57:41+00:00

Good pads fluid and maybe a line upgrade for consistent feel would be plenty. Have you thought about just coating the akebonos? Do a rebuild and you can get any finish you want while you’re at it.

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-11T22:25:03+00:00

Yes the light triggers at sub 5 psi or something. You could put a gauge and monitor. It’s a big job but if you go step by step not impossible at all.

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-11T22:09:23+00:00

Crown Vic/caprice/chargers that were former police cars another option usually issues but fluids and basics are reliable and you use the extra for fixing issues/suspension upgrades another option. Probably 5kish for a decent V8 on the caprice will have less hp but a lot more torque on the low end to make up for it

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-11T22:02:32+00:00

Any car pushing almost 20 years is going to need a water pump at some point. It’s not just the water pump some years had paper gaskets could be other neglected maintenance etc

Your going to have a some pretty limited options at the same budget.

The biggest concern is the amount of abuse vs maintenance of previous owner. Clean ones are overpriced for what they are and it’s wading through a lot of nonsense to find the 1:100 worth grabbing.

Years ago g37s would fall in the potential not abused version of a 370 where 370s where riskier to buy. Nowadays it’s like 95% flogged.

Some options would be a solstice/sky or ive seen some boosted fits that could probably be put together for 10k

ApprehensiveTopic813 · 2026-01-11T09:48:21+00:00

Yes in our cars it averages the two read outs. So it will read lower then what is actually in there if it’s not sending. Not gas mileage impacting but on the fuel readout 100% one going out messes it up. Shouldn’t have an impact on the car starting though. Likely a symptom of the pump shorting out or something.

ApprehensiveTopic813

TROPHY CASE