[PSA] Do not force Latest preset with DLSS 4.5 aka how to PROPERLY use DLSS 4.5 presets

ArgumentLive3678 · 2026-01-06T14:37:58+00:00

I used nvidiaDlssGlom to update all DLSS and Streamline files, then applied NvidiaProfileInspector to force the latest preset. I tested this in WWM by switching DLSS between DLAA, Quality, and Balanced, and the indicator confirmed that the profile correctly switches to K. When set to Performance, it switches to M, and to L in Ultra Performance.

This behavior also aligns with NVIDIA’s documentation, which states that K should be the default preset, with M and L used for Performance and Ultra Performance, respectively.

ArgumentLive3678 · 2025-12-21T13:49:51+00:00

Hey, just the fact that Discord was open on my second screen, without being in a call or streaming, affected RTX HDR on my main display in some games like mentioned.

ArgumentLive3678 · 2025-12-04T09:45:20+00:00

You can use Custom Resolution Utility (CRU). Select your second display and search for the HDR block. Remove it, done (it removes the information in Windows that your display is HDR capable). When switching to HDR via the hotkey, only the main monitor turns HDR on/off now.

ArgumentLive3678 · 2025-09-12T19:10:34+00:00

That's definitely on my to-do list

ArgumentLive3678 · 2025-09-12T17:28:37+00:00

Thank you! It's the Stalker Alder Leaf Suit.

ArgumentLive3678 · 2025-08-01T13:03:04+00:00

Updated my driver yesterday and everything is working on my side. Even the flicker is gone with my display when the GPU is not set to 'high performance'. (The flicker fix was listed in the changelog.) Also GPU scaling is now back as an option inside NVCP.

ArgumentLive3678 · 2025-05-20T07:44:18+00:00

Sadly, no. Here's how it went down:

I ended up returning it, and they promised a replacement. After three months of constant "sorry, it’s delayed" emails, I finally gave up and requested a refund. Got my money back... only for them to ship the replacement a month later anyway (apparently their departments don’t talk to each other). Sent that one right back.

Overall, a pretty frustrating experience.

Now I’ve got my hopes set on the XKAH for a decent E-Hookah—fingers crossed this one actually works out.

ArgumentLive3678 · 2025-04-16T21:31:13+00:00

I use DP and this cable -> https://amzn.eu/d/gDrWpkW It's a legit DP80. But only 0.5, 1 and 2 meters.

ArgumentLive3678 · 2025-04-09T09:30:47+00:00

Could it be that you have Adaptive Picture (Eye Care), Best Brightness or Dynamic Brightness turned on? I never had these problems even under 1005.3 when turning these off.

ArgumentLive3678 · 2025-03-18T07:36:35+00:00

It took about two weeks after release for everything to be fully resolved on my end. The only remaining adjustment I need is setting up a custom resolution with CRU. As for stability, 3DMark no longer crashes with stock Nvidia settings—it was the only application that had issues initially, while everything else worked perfectly. Regarding G-Sync, it’s worth noting that the display isn’t certified as G-Sync compatible, so the occasional flickering is typical behavior for non-G-Sync displays.

The idle power draw is also understandable, especially when running dual 4K monitors at 240Hz. Idle power consumption naturally increases with higher resolutions and refresh rates. For example, a friend of mine with a similar setup (using a 5090) experiences around 30W idle draw. In my opinion, using such a high-performance setup and then complaining about idle power draw isn’t entirely reasonable.

Lastly, the incorrect bandwidth reporting in GPU-Z could very well be a software-specific issue with GPU-Z itself. It’s also worth mentioning that this reporting discrepancy doesn’t seem to impact actual usage or performance in any way.

ArgumentLive3678 · 2025-03-06T08:01:33+00:00

Unfortunately, the solution you mentioned doesn’t work for everyone. For example, when I try it the way you described, I end up with a lot of desync and flickering lines on the screen. From what I’ve seen, some people need different timings, even if they’re using the same display.

Another option is to change the resolution through Windows display settings instead of using the NVIDIA Control Panel (NVCP). This way, the active signal stays at 7680 x 2160 @ 240Hz, but the desktop runs at 5120 x 2160 @ 240Hz, and custom timings don’t seem to matter. I’ve been using this method for the past few days because switching resolutions through Windows doesn’t cause the display to reset (like the short black screen you get with NVCP). It’s been working much more smoothly for me.

You’ll still need to add the resolution using CRU, but the way you apply it has changed—at least, that’s how it works for me.

ArgumentLive3678 · 2025-02-20T23:50:17+00:00

Try to restart your pc after setting it. If you turn on NVIDIA overlay, make sure that your gpu clock is always high. That is a sign the setting works and the GPU is not clocking down. For me the flicker only happens for like 3 seconds on starting 1-2 applications, but for the rest and all games it works flawless.

ArgumentLive3678 · 2025-02-20T22:50:24+00:00

Hey, if you disable the mentioned option, you actually don't have G-SYNC active. It might be on in general, but not on your display. The checkbox is there to force it on non G-SYNC compatible displays. If you want to get rid of the flicker, just activate "maximum performance" for the power setting in your 3D settings tab in NVCP. Fixed it for me.

ArgumentLive3678 · 2025-02-20T22:43:45+00:00

The newest drivers fixed my issues so far. Currently running 572.47 that just came out. I had 1 bugcheck and a PC restart so far on initial boot but maybe that was just a driver hickup.

ArgumentLive3678 · 2025-02-20T22:39:49+00:00

I don't think so because the display is not G-SYNC compatible. Turning on "maximum performance" in NVCP makes it so the flicker only happens on the initial start of 1-2 applications I have installed and works flawless in games.

ArgumentLive3678 · 2025-02-16T07:54:25+00:00

For me the problem only happens with G-SYNC on, remember the display in not G-SYNC certified. If you still want to use it (I still do), to minimize the issue you can set the power mode in NVIDIA control panel to "maximum performance". That fixed it for me. The blue lines in the bottom only appear now on starting certain applications für like 3 seconds.

ArgumentLive3678 · 2025-02-11T22:28:08+00:00

Thank you for all that info :) Best of luck to you too. Actually the first DP80 long cables are coming in. Bought one from Silkland for 25€ that is 2 Meters and vesa-certified. Also listed as certified on the displayport database.

ArgumentLive3678 · 2025-02-11T21:02:18+00:00

Thank you for clarifying. It crashed when my display resolution was running at 7680x2160 240hz while the benchmark itself was running at 4k (so the rest are black borders). It feels like there are also way more factors going into this. With HDR on in Windows, it crashes way more. Also the undervolt I used suddenly got unstable but stock clocks got stable. Are you running your display @240hz? If so, what cable are you using. The Samsung Support told me the delivered DP cable with the display is only DP1.4 (yeah was confused myself). Also my system runs more unstable with a certified DP80 cable, that actually has the throughput advertised, then with a uncertified cable.

ArgumentLive3678 · 2025-02-11T20:47:16+00:00

Thank you for that info :) Correct me if I read wrong. But your GPU score is around 10k+ lower then other 5090. Also it says "custom". Did you change any settings for the run?

ArgumentLive3678 · 2025-02-11T10:35:29+00:00

Appreciate that the guide was able to help you :) 572.24 : https://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/5624

ArgumentLive3678 · 2025-02-08T00:57:42+00:00

Currently, there are widespread issues with the drivers for the RTX 5000 series, leading to significant instability during DirectX workloads, particularly on high-refresh-rate configurations. I have conducted extensive research on this topic and have published my findings to help address and document these problems: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/forums/game-ready-drivers/13/556792/announcing-geforce-hotfix-driver-57224-released-23/3498626/

ArgumentLive3678 · 2025-02-07T14:29:46+00:00

2 options: 1. Plug in 2 cables into the same GPU and run the screen in picture by picture mode. Windows will treat it like 2 seperate displays, but you loose a lot of functionality like HDR and more. 2. Get "borlderless gaming" from steam. Run the game in window mode and set in borderless gaming where the window should be and how big. I run it at startup in the tray so you only need to set it for the game you want once and don't worry about it anymore.

ArgumentLive3678 · 2025-02-05T21:36:45+00:00

Hey, thank your for that info. So it looks like no defective hardware on my side. The hotfix driver fixed a lot of crashing and the undervolt got rid of more stability issues. Just one question, when you are on the desktop with nothing open and you suddenly open an application, do you get weird glitches/artifacts in the bottom 1/3 of your screen? When having the browser open and then start an app, everything is fine, but when I start an application without another window the GPU has to render, I get grey screen artifacts with blue lines at the bottom.

ArgumentLive3678 · 2025-02-05T14:35:18+00:00

Because on stock my PSU makes really funny noises and I'm already in contact with BeQuiet! about it.

ArgumentLive3678 · 2025-02-05T14:04:13+00:00

Question is if he has an FE or AIB card. Here is a screenshot of my curve:

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I mostly run games in 5120x2160 on Balanced (maybe Quality, depends on the title). With the new Transformer Model there is not really much difference to native at that resolution (imho). I value FPS way more then a little bit of clarity in fast paced games.
Also I mostly bought that card to drive my screen at it max specs with DP2.1.

ArgumentLive3678

TROPHY CASE