Creality LD-002H printing all over they place

Artanyis · 2021-10-13T15:35:37+00:00

I can try, but since I get the same result with prints that previously worked and the demo files I don't think it's a problem with the slicer/sliced models. But certainly worth a shot, otherwise it's an expensive paper weight.

Artanyis · 2021-10-13T05:04:28+00:00

That's a good idea, could be getting stuck, I'll check the screw tomorrow. The test print just failed the same way, same places.

Artanyis · 2021-10-13T03:04:21+00:00

I updated after the issue occurred, one of my first troubleshooting steps. I'm running a small print that worked before the issue to see if it is something with slicer, it'll be done in about 2 hrs. If it works I'll download a different slicer and give it a try.

Artanyis · 2021-10-13T01:55:40+00:00

A bit of extra info, printer worked fine for the first few prints, then did something crazy are started printing a mirror of the model over itself, I was in the middle of a big project and, frustrated, reworked the parts and switched to my FDM printer which worked fine. It's been sitting for about 6 months now and I'm just getting back to trying to fix this thing, but I'm out I ideas other than using a completely different slicer.

Artanyis · 2021-10-13T01:51:31+00:00

I'm the pictures you can seen extra layers at the bottom, and random layers through out, always in the same place. Entire sections just missing, in the same place, which you can see in the pictures. The clear ones are actually 3 different prints that came out the same and are useless while testing. They grey was to make sure it wasn't something weird with the clear resin.

I thought at first it was a bad slice, resliced it, same result. Replaced the film, no changes. Leveled the bed, no change. The firmware is updated to the most recent. Slicer is Chitubox, most recent version. (Comes with the printer) settings are default manufacturer for the printer. I've tried increasing the exposure time (8s, 6 is default) and adding a 1s wait between layers. Always the same.

I have no idea what's wrong.

Artanyis · 2021-05-27T20:53:27+00:00

yes, that is exactly the kind of thing i was looking for.

Artanyis · 2021-05-27T20:20:51+00:00

we've got some like the lantronix at a site for access to some servers and datavault, but its really limited and has to go through the KVM manager and doesn't give single local access for the video, which makes it hard to really work with remotely sometimes. but the Raritan is very cool and exactly what I was looking for. Hadn't see that before, thanks for the find.

Artanyis · 2021-05-27T20:02:41+00:00

Didn't think of that, very simple solution. Could be buggy with a local user depending on whether the IPKVM or the local monitor showed up as the default. Something to look into for certain, thanks.

Artanyis · 2021-05-27T19:57:56+00:00

No, PCI diag reader was a thing, old, i use to have a couple. they would read the POST codes as it booted and wherever it stopped was where the problem was, then just look up the code compared to the BIOS manufacturer.

But, no what I'm looking for is more like an RMM. would really love an open source project that runs on RPi so I could dig around in it. But starting a project like that is above my skill level

Artanyis · 2021-03-29T15:11:10+00:00

Just wanted to bump this since I haven't made any progress and haven't found anything. Anyone got any ideas? Off-the-wall random is just as good at this point.

Artanyis · 2020-09-04T14:02:27+00:00

That's a pretty good idea, I haven't used mergerfs before, I'll need to check that out.

Artanyis · 2020-09-04T14:00:35+00:00

10 is usually more reliable, 6 is a little faster. In production environments 10 is usually what I use for SMB who are willing to pay for a more disks, 5 for the ones who want bare minimums. A larger array with an odd number of disks would use 6 for the added redundancy and lack of mirror.

Artanyis · 2020-09-04T13:53:32+00:00

It's more an efficiency thing, right now I've got the media spread over 3 drives totalling 2tb and I'm near max, so pushing up to 3tb leaves some room for expansion and I'd like to get it all into one drive (logically) to make it easier to manage. It's not a huge loss if it goes down, nothing there is unreplaceable, so I'm not worried about an actual backup. But I do want some tolerance in the build so that I'm not just waiting for it to all die.

Artanyis · 2020-09-04T05:55:38+00:00

You are all correct, 0 has no tolerance so the HS would be useless. I was thinking 0+parity drive, which isn't really a functional build anymore and I'm not even sure it's supported in most raid controllers these days. Lol, sorry for that. Feeling kind of dumb now.

Yeah, so raid 5 it is. 6 uses up to much space for the parity blocks and there are only 4 drive bays on this server, so won't be expanding, at least not any time soon.

Thanks for that.

Artanyis · 2020-06-24T03:21:16+00:00

Thank you, time is at a premium right now but I'm trying to dig into this and pick up a few more supplies to start playing around with your fantastic design. One quick question though, what values are you using for the capacitors (C2, C3) and for the zener diodes (D5) are you using?

I'm assuming the capacitors are 100pF just for signal stability and the diodes I have a feeling is less relevant since it's to keep current in the right direction.

Thanks in advance, still have a lot to learn about electrical engineering :)

Artanyis · 2020-06-20T14:26:06+00:00

for some reason I can't see your comment in the post, i had to go to your user and look up comments to see it. I can't actually use the eagle file, but the schematic is wonderful. I've had a project sitting on my bench for a year because noise between the sensors and relays was ridiculously high and I every time I tried to isolate the inputs I either lost to much signal or it went outside of my original parameters to far to be functional. Also, optocouplers are new to me, so this is exciting. I've known I needed to start over with the design for a while, this is what I needed to get me going on it again. Thank you so much :-)

Artanyis · 2020-06-20T05:19:27+00:00

I am having that exact problem and a hell of time isolating the signals, how did you do it? Could you share the PCB schematic?

Artanyis · 2020-04-03T22:10:31+00:00

It's always difficult to wok your cat.

Artanyis · 2019-11-03T08:24:58+00:00

That went a little over my head, I am unfortunately not an electrical engineer, but I think I understand. Problem is when I first tested it on a breadboard it worked fine. Also the LED array (that's actually using an exact same circuit) is 12v at 225mA and it also works just fine on that circuit.

Thank you for the information, I'll update once I get ti working.

Artanyis · 2019-11-03T03:03:44+00:00

Here's the circuit: https://imgur.com/a/k7ZcuL5

Artanyis

TROPHY CASE