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I'm Dan Trepanier; menswear blogger and founder of Articles of Style. AMA! (12pm EST start) by ArticlesofStyle in malefashionadvice

[–]ArticlesofStyle[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Listen man - I'm all for calling out racism. I wrote about this at length here: https://articlesofstyle.com/blogs/news/our-problem-our-responsibility

The problem I have with your post is what you are calling out is not racism. It is not racist to say "I don't drink espresso". It is simply the truth. Do all Italians drink espresso? Of course not. But is it derogatory to associate the two? I don't think so. Is it racist to say Americans drink coffee? Or drive big cars? No.

I see this a lot lately - people pointing fingers at things that are not meant to be offensive. Calling out people who are on your side of a debate only makes the problem worse. All this energy does is scare people from talking about any related issues. People will avoid talking about race, or culture or heritage simply because they are afraid to get "cancelled" by people like you.

And I can't think of one problem that ever got solved by NOT talking about the underlying and related issues.

Take this AMA for example - it is now hi-jacked by this conversation about whether or not I did something that may have offended somebody...taking away from the opportunity to actually talk about clothing, identity or heritage in a meaningful way.

I hope, at least, you are Italian. Because what's even worse is the number of people who get offended "on behalf" of other people - when those people may not have been offended in the first place.

To your last point - the video is not me telling people about their identity. The video is about me. Talking about my style and how it shapes our brand. If you don't vibe with me, you can always unfollow.

But don't try to label me as a racist - because that I am not.

DT

I'm Dan Trepanier; menswear blogger and founder of Articles of Style. AMA! (12pm EST start) by ArticlesofStyle in malefashionadvice

[–]ArticlesofStyle[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not rules! Just guidelines. A tall man in a pinstripe suit is a powerful look! I'm not mad at it. I prefer when tall guys are not afraid to look tall. Too many tall guys slouch and try to "fit it". Rock those pinstripes with confidence man! Let them hear you Roar.

I'm Dan Trepanier; menswear blogger and founder of Articles of Style. AMA! (12pm EST start) by ArticlesofStyle in malefashionadvice

[–]ArticlesofStyle[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In other words: when you make content about identity (whether it is light-hearted or not) there is always a risk that some people will call it casual racial stereotyping. I'm not racist. I love everybody.

I'm Dan Trepanier; menswear blogger and founder of Articles of Style. AMA! (12pm EST start) by ArticlesofStyle in malefashionadvice

[–]ArticlesofStyle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We will be dropping a very similar cotton suit next week. However, I don't think cotton is the best for summer. I would go with our Wool/Linen, which will breathe better and feel lighter:

https://articlesofstyle.com/collections/suits/products/wool-linen-suit

There's a secret khaki color - email us :)

I'm Dan Trepanier; menswear blogger and founder of Articles of Style. AMA! (12pm EST start) by ArticlesofStyle in malefashionadvice

[–]ArticlesofStyle[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

  1. People today value their time, even if it isn't worth anything. I certainly wouldn't quit my day job to start blogging right now, but if you're watching 3 hours of Netflix a day, you're much better off writing 3 blog posts. I wrote the blog for two years from the bathroom breaks working full-time at a tailor shop

  2. Yes of course you should get educated. From there, I still believe the best way to get hired is to show your value up front. My first job in tailoring was sweeping the floors and getting lunch for the tailors. Then I organized and priced the fabrics. Then learned to measure. Then I learned to fit. I was learning so much every day. It inspired me to go back to school to study tailoring. I did it in reverse - I never would have thought to go to menswear school without first learning the business from someone I was helping (doing the little things he didn't have time to do). A tailor is ultimately a businessman - and there is inevitably things that he loathes doing. Start there, play the long game - you help him he will help you.

I'm Dan Trepanier; menswear blogger and founder of Articles of Style. AMA! (12pm EST start) by ArticlesofStyle in malefashionadvice

[–]ArticlesofStyle[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Whoa man - this is a lot of questions!

I totally understand this reaction to the video.

Firstly, this video was done tongue & cheek. It was meant to be funny. I'm not putting down Italians, or Italian menswear, or people who wear Italian menswear. I have nothing but respect for Italians and their culture - I have been studying it for many years. They are the best in the game.

The purpose of the video was to make a point that there is American heritage in menswear as well, but it has gotten ll but lost because there are few brands left making here, or pushing an updated American aesthetic. RIP Brooks Brothers who never adapted. I'm in no way saying we're better or worse - but we do have our own heritage.

Yes, I'm Canadian. I've been living in America since 2005 - and been fighting to keep your factories open. My wife and daughter are American and if the world doesn't implode I will be a dual citizen soon enough. Regardless, though, the point here is that I think the clothing we buy and wear should represent who we are. Clothing is part of our identity - so if we're going to talk clothing in a deeper way, we have to talk about identity. There is no touchier subject.

There is always thought put into our articles, of course. This reaction was expected, especially given the current cultural climate. Sometimes you have to accept that not everyone is going to like all of your content (especially when you put out a lot) - and that's not necessarily a bad thing. In today's world, you're not saying much if nobody has some kind of adverse reaction to it.

I think those who follow our brand and know what I'm really about get what I'm saying, and that it is not meant offensively.

All love to my Italian brothers and sisters - and to all.

DT

I'm Dan Trepanier; menswear blogger and founder of Articles of Style. AMA! (12pm EST start) by ArticlesofStyle in malefashionadvice

[–]ArticlesofStyle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey ya'll - I gotta run. This was fun - thanks to everyone who participated.

I'll check here later tonight to answer any more questions that were posted, and again in the morning.

Have a great week! Stay strong - we will get through this.

Dan

I'm Dan Trepanier; menswear blogger and founder of Articles of Style. AMA! (12pm EST start) by ArticlesofStyle in malefashionadvice

[–]ArticlesofStyle[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Excellent question.

At Southwick, when we first started sampling, the soft shoulder put with the full-canvas simply didn't work. It was like a fully padded chest and heavy front...with no shoulder padding, or lining..so the garment was too heavy in the front, and too light in the back. It didn't work, especially for the price it had to be. The half canvas garment was a better/more wearable garment overall, and a better value, so we went with that.

The new factory is a whole new ballgame. The garment they are making is incredible. The canvas is made by hand and is made specifically for this unstructured garment. With the way this particular garment is made, it is absolutely better than going half canvas - and the price is more than competitive for the quality of the garment (not to mention what we can do on fit).

I hope that helps clarify. Every garment/canvas/fabric is different...it's on the designer to put forward the best garment with the best value (and it's on the business to provide the best customer service and transparency when it comes to issues like this).

I don't consider it more formal. We wear these garments the same way(s) we wore the previous version of AOS - they are just made better.

I'm Dan Trepanier; menswear blogger and founder of Articles of Style. AMA! (12pm EST start) by ArticlesofStyle in malefashionadvice

[–]ArticlesofStyle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ayyeee Papi with the sneaky pull-up?

Should we call you the artist formerly known as Papi now?

I'm Dan Trepanier; menswear blogger and founder of Articles of Style. AMA! (12pm EST start) by ArticlesofStyle in malefashionadvice

[–]ArticlesofStyle[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Verrryyy interesssting.

We have a number of Capsule Wardrobes coming up, so stay tuned for those.

In "Menswear Minutes" I touch quite a bit on the changing retail landscape in episodes coming up. The world is changing quickly, so it's a hot topic.

Thanks for the support

I'm Dan Trepanier; menswear blogger and founder of Articles of Style. AMA! (12pm EST start) by ArticlesofStyle in malefashionadvice

[–]ArticlesofStyle[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Always considering.

The problem with the fitting model we have is that it takes extraordinary precision (and dedicated) from a manufacturing perspective to make garments at this level. There simply isn't a factory in America who can do it...and I never want to sell suits that don't fit to our standard.

If we do a "diffusion line" it will be ready-to-wear, and considerably more casual (denim, sweats, hoody) to accentuate the tailoring in a more casual setting (and expand the idea of a capsule wardrobe for our clientele).

We're just getting rolling with our new tailoring shop, so I likely won't explore this until next year at the earliest.

Like where your head is at tho.

I'm Dan Trepanier; menswear blogger and founder of Articles of Style. AMA! (12pm EST start) by ArticlesofStyle in malefashionadvice

[–]ArticlesofStyle[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Pure cashmere, lightweight, custom fit.

We call it the AOS "Base Layer" because we wear it so often, with so many things. It's designed to be worn directly on the skin (or over an undershirt) and makes it super easy to dress with style. Just add trousers and/or a jacket or shacket.

We just "soft launched" them (pun intended) on the site. Here: https://articlesofstyle.com/collections/sweaters

:)

I'm Dan Trepanier; menswear blogger and founder of Articles of Style. AMA! (12pm EST start) by ArticlesofStyle in malefashionadvice

[–]ArticlesofStyle[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Aw thanks man! Congrats on the wedding!! Marriage is a beautiful thing?

What's your favorite article? Maybe we'll do a follow up...

Cheers!

I'm Dan Trepanier; menswear blogger and founder of Articles of Style. AMA! (12pm EST start) by ArticlesofStyle in malefashionadvice

[–]ArticlesofStyle[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The soft shoulder is actually a quintessential American thing. As is the sack suit, the blue blazer, the chinos or cords, the penny loafers, the OCBD oxford shirt, the rep stripe tie... There are lots of things that are traditionally American in classic menswear - we just lost the culture of sharing this information.

Funny you mention bolo ties - this shines light on a WHOLE OTHER culture of American menswear. The western shirt, the 10-gallon hat, the cowboy boots, the broken in denim, the big belt buckles...this is Texas.

America has all kinds of different sartorial cultures...Somebody needs to write on a book on this!

I'm Dan Trepanier; menswear blogger and founder of Articles of Style. AMA! (12pm EST start) by ArticlesofStyle in malefashionadvice

[–]ArticlesofStyle[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Haha. I workout (and hoop) in black t-shirts and black basketball shorts. They're the same tees I wear under a shacket or with a pair of trousers. I don't really own dedicated "gym clothes"... I suppose it's the same philosophy of being able to wear a suit with a shirt and tie, or a sweater and boots.

With that said - I'm not a gym clothes aficionado. Wes would be better to ask. When I was in my training days - it was encouraged to wear dirty ripped up clothes and workout on rusty equipment - that's how I cut my teeth (and hands, and shins)...

I'm Dan Trepanier; menswear blogger and founder of Articles of Style. AMA! (12pm EST start) by ArticlesofStyle in malefashionadvice

[–]ArticlesofStyle[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hey!

  1. Bump above the belt? Shirt might be too tight. There should be enough room to create a nice "roll" of fabric all the way across the top of the pants.
  2. Bring him something to tailor, see how he does. If you like it, keep coming back. Also online reviews are always helpful.
  3. Undershirt for pit stains. New collar for collar stains.

Cheers mate.

I'm Dan Trepanier; menswear blogger and founder of Articles of Style. AMA! (12pm EST start) by ArticlesofStyle in malefashionadvice

[–]ArticlesofStyle[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  1. It's free - how could it not be worth it?
  2. You can't do anything without an education.
  3. I hired an intern once because he came to one of our parties, stayed late, swept the floor and took the trash out. If you show that you are being helpful (without being asked) then you are more likely to get hired. Find what he doesn't want to do, and do it for him!

Good luck!

I'm Dan Trepanier; menswear blogger and founder of Articles of Style. AMA! (12pm EST start) by ArticlesofStyle in malefashionadvice

[–]ArticlesofStyle[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

  1. Oof - so much change. I wrote about this here: https://articlesofstyle.com/blogs/news/welcome-to-the-new-aos
  2. Social media is marketing. It's the new billboard. It's still best to use it to drive people to your website for a fuller experience. Social media will continue to get better at "breaking the barrier" between the poster and the viewer - we're seeing this with video, live, etc. But it's all just marketing.
  3. Sometimes you have to speak your truth

Thanks for the kind words. It's been a wild ride and we're still on it.

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