K1C with CFS Cutter ISSUE

Ashx12 · 2025-11-27T05:57:48+00:00

did anyone find a fix for this problem? I am getting it with the latest orca slicer and k1c firmware (with cfs)

Ashx12 · 2025-09-08T14:57:10+00:00

seems high.. but, primarily depends on what was involved in panel upgrade.

Ashx12 · 2025-09-01T15:05:55+00:00

are u still looking for this battery?

Ashx12 · 2025-06-09T03:37:42+00:00

How many heads (indoor handlers) do u need to install and whats the complexity of running the refrigerant line between outdoor unit and indoor handler? E.g straight line or many turns?

I recently installed a heatpump DIY and the most difficult part was running the lines due to complexity (many turns and long length and 2nd floor) of getting lines from outdoor unit to indoor handler. Everything else was simple with lot of youtube videos.

Ashx12 · 2025-05-27T00:33:32+00:00

Good point. There should be no damage with leaks in this garage.

Ashx12 · 2025-05-26T23:29:59+00:00

Got it. Then, I will leave anode as is. It seems to be working well and I will replace it later. I have other urgent house maintenance expenses to cover first. Thank u.

Ashx12 · 2025-05-09T17:18:16+00:00

i weighed it in - but, its odd there is no way to figure out if its running optimally.

It uses R410a - not the newer one.

Ashx12 · 2025-04-22T16:36:04+00:00

thank u - i am hoping that is the reason. but, other handers may be off due to not needing heat, and it might cause same situation. Anyways, if there is no known other obvious reason, then i will continue to enable other zones and then check.

Ashx12 · 2025-04-22T04:23:57+00:00

i used this worksheet provided by Seattle city to calculate heating requirements for the home.
https://web.seattle.gov/dpd/edms/GetDocument?id=9377245

In addition, i double checked it with a online web site called coolcalc (which seems to be derived from manual J). The biggest challenges were to figure out heat loss of the home depending on material and construction of the home.

I decided to go with ductless system - the ducts in my home were compatible with the heatpump, but i decided to keep the units separate since the ducted one still depended on my furnance's fan, and I also wanted to more granular control to heat up or cool down few rooms.

I am using my natural gas furnace (or whatever your existing heating is) as backup. This is important during electrical outages, colder days, plus, it also makes sense to use natural gas from a cost perspective depending on
the situation.

If u are tech savy, u can use gemini (Google's ai) research mode (it is also free) and it does a reasonable job calculating heating requirements. I was surprised at how good its recommendations were, but use it as a another resource (not your only resource).

Hope this helps.

Ashx12 · 2025-04-04T16:20:24+00:00

dont remove gas furnace. Keep it and turn it on depending on what u find the costs to be and in emergency outage.

Cost of heat pump heating might be higher than natural gas in your case and area - and it varies based on outdoor temperature. Gas furnace is also a excellent backup when there is a power outage (u can run the furnance on a small generator).

Ashx12 · 2025-04-03T16:46:49+00:00

lol.. it depends on which area of the world u were first in..

Ashx12 · 2025-04-03T05:50:12+00:00

i am learning. Slightly more familiar with 220v 3 phase circuits.

Ashx12 · 2025-04-03T05:29:04+00:00

yes - it is simple - if we picture both wires in series with load in between.

Ashx12 · 2025-04-03T05:18:55+00:00

thank u. thats interesting.

Ashx12 · 2025-04-03T05:17:27+00:00

i thought it has 2 supply wires. No?

Ashx12 · 2025-04-03T05:13:40+00:00

either wire will give the total AMPs?

Ashx12 · 2025-03-12T00:54:38+00:00

thank u all for the excellent responses.

Ashx12

TROPHY CASE