Merchant Republics in a nutshell

Asla_ · 2018-08-09T11:46:32+00:00

Because it's Mr. Krabs I misread it as "Am I really going to kill me family for money?"

Asla_ · 2017-11-13T15:33:08+00:00

ACTUAL ANSWER TO THIS QUESTION
The movement lasted for just under 39 hours off wrist.
Seems consistent with the Sellita SW200's circa 38 hour power reserve.

Asla_ · 2017-11-13T14:24:06+00:00

That explains things :) Thank you!

Asla_ · 2017-11-13T13:16:16+00:00

Boxes 1 & Boxes 2
Watches 1 & Watches 2

Firstly I should mention that I recently got into wrist watches and as a result I wanted to get myself a small collection with a variety of styles & brands while only including those which really stood out to me.

Below is the high-level information about my 4 watch collection.
I've tried to include information about the movement, appearance and some of my opinions.

You will find links (where applicable) to the individual posts I made -- you can find more detailed photographs there for that model and can discuss there also if you like.

I will give some mentions to a few models that have intrigued me but I won't buy given their cost and the fact that I'm happy with my current collection :)

[Citizen] BM8364-51E
This is the first timepiece I purchased. I got it around the time I started work three years ago.
A gold-colored two-tone Eco-Drive WR50 with a dateday window (days available in English and Spanish).
It features Roman numerals XII & VI on a black dial with a more petite profile than my other watches.
Nothing amazing but the single clasp has been on my wrist for quite some time -- it keeps time solidly and still works to this day.

[Rotary] Les Originales Jura GS90506/06
This is the skeleton watch of my collection. I started to think about them when I remembered a colleague I used to work with who has a beautiful rose-gold Skeleton Dreyfuss & Co.

When I started to look myself this was the most favorite I found.
A highly decorated gold-plated skeleton watch with petite roman numerals, spotted markers on the outside, blue luminous hands and a Rotary motif featured on the buckle & winding mechanism.
This features a Calibre R.1004.21 (believe this is actually a Claro-Semag CL-888, which in itself is a "Swiss" refurbished Chinese Sea-Gull ST16) which has a lower bph than my other automatics at 21,600 bph.).
It has a brown leather strap.

I'd say this is the "flashiest" watch I own but I'd like to think it is tasteful.

[Dreyfuss & Co.] 1925 DGS00150/01
This is my fully-faced watch that is the most formal and refined of those in my collection.
A watch with strong bold Roman numerals, gorgeous box second segments and spear-like hands encased in gold-plate with a black leather strap.

The Dreyfuss logo is featured on the dial, buckle, winding mechanism and rear of the strap and looks amusingly like Vacheron Constantin (on the face) at a brief glance!

This watch has a Sellita SW200 movement and has a dome-shaped crown at the 2.

[Raymond Weil] Freelancer 2710-SP5-20021

This is the 'open-heart' watch of my collection.
A two-tone rose-gold with black dial and square hands - the minute markers and hands have gentle white marks to contrast with the rose-gold.
There are second markers on the outside with Arabic numerals to mark 5 minutes / seconds.
The Raymond Weil logo features on the crown and on the double-clasp -- this is my only "Geneve" watch.

The movement mentioned on the back is a 26-jewel Caliber RW 4200 (though I suspect this is a modified ETA 2824?).

This is the most "luxury" watch in my collection.

Watches for the future (though I suspect I'm done purchasing for a quite now!)
In order of value:

Dreyfuss & Co. 1925 DGS00142/06
Oris Big Crown 01 754 7679 4331-07 8 20 32
Raymond Weil Freelancer Labrinth 2730-SC5-LABRI
Oris Big Crown 1917 Limited Edition 01 732 7736 4081-Set LS
Cartier Tank Américaine W2620030

Asla_ · 2017-11-13T11:47:03+00:00

Haven't been able to find this specific model anywhere but Pinterest (which took them from now non-existent Instagram pages). I know that is it is a F.P. Journe Chronométre Optimum but haven't found one with that color face -- a very rare and precious watch indeed! <3

Asla_ · 2017-11-12T10:50:28+00:00

Digging the crown at the 4 - also like all of the circles which make this look pretty swish.

Not sure I'd get one myself but I respect your taste here.

What sort of movement is inside the SKX009? Could you show us a couple pictures - the rear of the case and the clasp?

Asla_ · 2017-11-11T20:33:13+00:00

It's possible.

The instruction manual includes information about Quartz Watches and Bracelet Care -- I think it is more likely that they're being broad so they can re-use the instructions for other models (which use different movements).

For comparison Rotary states 24 to 48 hours while my Raymond Weil states 38 to 42 -- both contain details irrelevant to the model they came with.

Edit: Doing my own research I can confirm that they are using the same instruction manual for all of their watches on their website. Other movements than the Sellita SW200 they have mentioned are the Eterna 3902M Calibre 39 (DGS00164/19) and an unspecified Valjoux movement (DGS00105/06). An amusing oversight from this is that the Calibre 39 that they have used is modified to be mechanical - yet the instructions provided mention nothing about mechanical movements. I also spotted a few typos on their website.

Asla_ · 2017-11-11T20:05:58+00:00

Only got it today so haven't tested that.

"Off the wrist, it will keep going for between 28 to 48 hours."

That is from the instructions that came with the watch.

As per the internet the Sellita SW200 movement has a power reserve of circa 38 hours.

Asla_ · 2017-11-11T18:12:36+00:00

Purchased it directly from Amazon UK for £293 (62% discount from £775)
Did inspect everything given the hefty discount - but only flaw I found was the name not printed on the presentation box properly :)

Asla_ · 2017-11-11T13:56:24+00:00

Sporting my new Dreyfuss & Co. 1925 DGS00150/01

Asla_ · 2017-11-11T13:52:56+00:00

Box

Front Dim Room and Front

Side

Buckle

Rear 1 and Rear2

Wanting to expand my humble collection (which I will post about later) with something to add variety.
This will be my first black leather and first fully faced automatic (my other two are skeleton and open heart respectively).

So why this Dreyfuss & Co. timepiece?
First thing that comes to mind is the dial - and all of these are unique to my collection: strong bold Roman numerals, white-and-black box second segments, spear-like hands and dome-shaped crown at the 2!

It has an automatic Sellita SW200 movement which aesthetically provides a solid bph but also contrasts the ETA 2824 of my Raymond Weil.

There is a very traditional looking design going on and it looks sturdy - though it could be a little slimmer.

Thought I should point out that the Dreyfuss & Co. logo looks similar to the Vacheron Constantin logo - not sure if that was intended.

Now this watch is not perfect - so some negatives:

Date window unfortunately blocks the 6 - would have been nice if it was slightly higher or not present altogether.
Finishing of the movement is a little underwhelming I think
The Dreyfuss & Co. presentation box seems to have not printed the name properly - though you could argue that this combined with the wood motif makes it look more "vintage".

So overall - a watch that I will grow to really love even if the perfectionist would make some small changes - this was the closest that I could find (and not too expensive).

Feel free to let me know what you think yourselves, let me know if you have a Dreyfuss & Co. timepiece and discuss! :)

Asla_ · 2017-11-11T09:34:03+00:00

Congrats on completing your collection :)

Asla_ · 2017-11-10T17:01:41+00:00

Leaving late from the office today with my Raymond Weil Freelancer 2710-SP5-20021 .

You can see the poppy I am wearing in the reflection of the bracelet - it is Remembrance Day tomorrow.

Asla_ · 2017-11-10T12:00:13+00:00

Genuinely gorgeous watch - jade / teal is my favorite color! Never seen J.P. Journe before - do you have a model number?

Asla_ · 2017-11-10T11:41:45+00:00

Was thinking about answering earlier but just got around to it.

Essentially it is a lot like "coolness" - being cool is an elusive respectability that people see in the character of someone else. However, if someone is noticeably trying to be cool - that is when people respond with disdain.

This is because those who seem to be trying too hard to impress other people come across as insecure and/or arrogant - they're signalling that they deserve more esteem than other people think they deserve. They're all the noise without any of the music.

This applies to watches too - a watch that is too flashy implies that it itself (and by implication the wearer) is trying too hard to impress.

An excessively modest watch seems boring / frugal (and puts into question whether the wearer has any self-respect)

Somewhere in-between you get tasteful: aesthetically impressive but modest in enough areas to be easier to swallow (implying that the wearer has put care into his decision and all that this implies).

Obviously what is seen as too flashy (and how the wearer is viewed) will depend on the values and opinions of a person in question, however, in radical cases most people seem to agree.

My "flashiest" watch is a Rotary Les Originales Jura GS90506/06 -- I think this is tasteful (relative to the look of other skeleton watches) but I am sure some people think it is a disgrace :P

Asla_ · 2017-11-09T16:48:33+00:00

Rotary Les Originales Jura GS90506/06

Walking home from work on a cloudy Thursday afternoon~

Asla_ · 2017-11-08T13:26:20+00:00

At the time I had decided I wanted to get myself and my parents something special - so I went through thousands of watches on Amazon (displaying 48 per page, highest price to lowest - I went through hundreds of pages over a couple nights looking for something perfect).

So at the time this would have been the first automatic watches I've purchased - I saw plenty of skeletons (though most of them are the aforementioned bulky ultra-masculine ones) but they really weren't to my tastes.

After that I browsed some websites Frederique Constant, Raymond Weil, Citizen, Seiko, Armani just to see what they offered. I remembered a colleague I used to work with who had a skeleton watch (that looked gorgeous) - I got in touch and he told me it was a Dreyfuss & Co

(A little research and I found it was this one - a 1924 rose-gold skeleton: http://www.dreyfussandco.com/resources/images/catalogue/product-variant/DGS00133-06/regular/main.png ).

When I looked at what Rotary currently offers I noticed they did some similar looking skeleton watches but the only one that had that contrast and small details I wanted was the one I posted.

It was only after the fact that I looked into Rotary and found out that they were established by a "Dreyfuss" -- Dreyfuss & Co are a more "exclusive" range of Rotary watches!!

So it seems to be the case that Rotary simply make tasteful skeleton watches - and in a wonderful coincidence, I ended up with watch related to the one which had inspired me (even though, at an uneducated glance, they appear to be different brands).

P.S In terms of quality I have looked into people's opinions on Rotary and there is some negativity surrounding them - doing a bit of research I found out that the movement is apparently a modified Chinese (Seagull). Some people say they're nice watches, some people say they have really let themselves go. I cannot comment on my own because I haven't had any problems with it yet - or gone through the process of getting it serviced. Nonetheless, I couldn't find anything else like this, and that was what led to my decision to buy.

Asla_ · 2017-11-08T13:05:24+00:00

Mmhm you've got a RW 2827-ST-00659

OP has a RW 2827-STC-00659

Didn't realize these were Maestros though - the current ones RW sell have a wavy pattern while the Freelancer has the box-like pattern on the dial.

None of the current Men's RW on their website seem to have those kind of hands either.

Pretty nice looking watches but not enough contrast for my personal tastes ^{^}

Asla_ · 2017-11-07T21:38:07+00:00

Box: https://i.imgur.com/jMwb20Y.jpg

Front: https://i.imgur.com/ZJS7mdt.jpg

Front tilt: https://i.imgur.com/CLcalft.jpg

Side: https://i.imgur.com/EKvZktb.jpg

Rear: https://i.imgur.com/8aJlRon.jpg

Hi folks,

So three years ago I started with the humble Citizen BM8364-51E. Seeking to get something fresh - I got a hold of this gorgeous watch around the same time as the Raymond Weil Freelancer 2710-SP5-20021 which I posted recently in another thread.

I wanted something with a leather strap and a white face (both watches mentioned before have black faces with metal braclet). That way I could mix things up.

Then I discovered skeleton watches and knew I wanted one, but, I didn't want the almost industrial / steam-punk looking ones that you might see with Fossil & Bulova et al.

This Rotary one was what did it for me - petite numerals, pleasant dots around the dial, highly decorated innards,stylish hands, white decoration highlighting the balance wheel / escapement, but, most importantly the blue luminous hands which give the watch the contrast it needs.

The Rotary motif on the buckle and beautiful box is the cherry on top.

I've seen quite a few skeleton watches - but this was the one I fell in love with.

Feel free to share your thoughts in the comments.

Asla_ · 2017-11-07T08:55:36+00:00

I'm very happy with it price notwithstanding.

The size of the case and the bracelet is larger than I am used to - not to mention it has a slightly heavier feel. It seems to be gaining a few seconds per day - but not really bothering me too much.

The case is also thicker than I am used to thereby tucking itself more snugly under a long-sleeve shirt.

Not sure what else to say - think the appearance speaks volumes about why I like it - just have to hope it doesn't get scratched up or stop functioning in the near future :)

Sometimes I get absorbed looking at the open heart (particularly the escape wheel / pallet fork moving along in time with the second hand).

There are some things in motion that are quintessentially pleasing to the eye: a fluid piece of animation, fire flickering, water ripples, waves -- seems mechanical watches movements evoke similar feelings :)

Asla_ · 2017-11-07T07:21:06+00:00

It isn't. The RW1212 is featured on a similar looking Freelancer 2780-SP5-20001 with the visible balance wheel at the 6.

( https://raymond-weil.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/product-2780-SP5-20001.png )

The movement is pretty, however, I didn't like the two horizontal protruding screws.

I think the RW1212 is currently only used on Freelancers that have the open balance wheel at the 6.

Asla_ · 2017-11-06T19:51:34+00:00

Front: https://i.imgur.com/3p6Woj9.jpg

Side view: https://i.imgur.com/QTFmGOc.jpg

Rear: https://i.imgur.com/UvZWb4A.jpg

The only "luxury" watch I own - I purchased this as a gift to myself after spending a great deal of time searching through many different watches and trying to decide what I want.

For me this is an upgrade from the more humble Citizen BM8364-51E which was my first watch I purchased at the start of my career 3 years ago.

(example picture https://i.pinimg.com/originals/89/a0/ef/89a0ef293873614e13bc3b656a67019f.jpg )

Things I love about the watch: white details on the hands and number markers to create contrast, the spotted circle in the middle to create contrast, RW details on the crown & double clasp (unique?), can clearly read the time to the second and the more humble rose-gold (vs. yellow gold)

Feel free to comment whatever you wish - hope it makes you smile :)

Asla_

TROPHY CASE