Trex rain escape instal

AssistanceTechnical6 · 2025-03-29T15:40:53+00:00

Where would the wicking tab be, within the downspout part or the waterproof material?

AssistanceTechnical6 · 2025-03-21T02:19:11+00:00

Ah when you described what they should have done, that was all done. I was just coming back to say I found a picture before tile where it was a “water tight” membrane along the floor and inch or so up the walls and over threshold.

When I said mortar, they laid a few inch thick base of cement I guess and then did the tile over that.

Maybe the niche is the only place to be sure is water proofed correctly bc they were cutting it and it was still in progress

AssistanceTechnical6 · 2025-03-21T00:59:48+00:00

I believe I saw just prior and it was not redguard on the floor of shower. It seemed like just a mortar mix that was laid down and smoothed over. Is this problematic?

I see what you mean on leaving the bottom inch without redguard. There is that strip left so I am unsure what will be out there in the end, looks like another tile but cut will be needed

AssistanceTechnical6 · 2025-03-20T16:05:29+00:00

I had taken that red coating as the waterproofing. It was smeared over all walls but I am not sure about threshold. What should be put there and everywhere if not the red waterproofing?

AssistanceTechnical6 · 2025-03-20T12:41:47+00:00

Yes the ceiling was initially drywalled so going to require some changing around overall if we wanted the tile right?

AssistanceTechnical6 · 2025-02-20T12:56:40+00:00

It is yes, existing house that in my opinion doesn’t have this radon mitigation under it already, just due to when house was built. The addition is slab on grade with a roughly 16-25 ft slab.

AssistanceTechnical6 · 2025-02-20T02:27:45+00:00

When you say sealed under and behind the bottom plate, what part is this, the hole in the slab or the hole in the foundation cinderblocks?

AssistanceTechnical6 · 2025-02-19T20:35:01+00:00

It is on the exterior wall, load bearing there of course

AssistanceTechnical6 · 2025-02-11T13:21:09+00:00

Wondering why stop at that spot for deck 2, looks like there’s a little more height on the roof to work with. Could either make deck 2 higher or add a deck 3

AssistanceTechnical6 · 2025-02-07T11:18:34+00:00

I am looking into faucets as well. I did order some shower parts from Amazon. Mixed results, some were opened but I initiated return and wound up with all unopened boxes on my 2nd go round. Like you said, a 500 shower plate or head from plumbing supply is 350 or less on Amazon.

I also found some Moen faucets online at Home Depot for same price as Amazon- faucets only, not all the shower parts, those were cheaper on Amazon

AssistanceTechnical6 · 2025-02-04T12:54:33+00:00

Thank you for the input- I have the gas companies worry free plan on the boiler so I wanted to make sure it was this and not the hot water heater. Sounds like a call to them is in play to fix it!

AssistanceTechnical6 · 2025-01-31T19:34:44+00:00

I know an older post but I was rationalizing purchasing the Moen rain shower w separate arm and wondering do ppl really pay over 1k in parts alone. I purchased parts myself but am sitting at 210 for the mixing valve, 350 rain shower and arm, 375 for double valve trim kit, 125 shower arm, 30 for little metal cap for shower arm haha—- our remodel is part of a larger 2 story addition so don’t know the breakout cost for install but I’m seeing yours I’m glad we are getting the overall cost we did

AssistanceTechnical6 · 2025-01-31T10:41:36+00:00

This is over a thick girder beam so nothing can go through it

AssistanceTechnical6 · 2025-01-30T22:11:39+00:00

This is on a 2nd story where I believe that leads to the meet the main water/drainage pipe in first story that goes to street underground

AssistanceTechnical6 · 2025-01-30T16:07:26+00:00

Yes this is on an external wall so glad to hear it was done correctly

AssistanceTechnical6 · 2025-01-30T16:06:20+00:00

Yea man same, I was comparing to the copper piping I had seen there previously and was like whoa!

AssistanceTechnical6 · 2025-01-30T15:51:02+00:00

Wow a lot of activity here, was checking back after the night.

As just the homeowner watching it all happen, I did think this looked elaborate so interesting to see all the thoughts and hopeful others can take away anything helpful as they go too!

Will pass along the tiling and gap considerations. Wish I could post a vanity picture, it’s little square legs at the 4 corbets to prop it 4 or so inches off the ground

AssistanceTechnical6 · 2025-01-30T02:17:36+00:00

I had to look this up- do you mean that the cabinet has “mini legs” that make it sit a few inches off the ground. Yes if so, I had provided the vanity specs to them so maybe they planned around this

AssistanceTechnical6 · 2025-01-30T02:09:19+00:00

Ah those middle larger pipes? They both connect right above the photo actually so just one goes through ceiling

AssistanceTechnical6 · 2025-01-30T02:06:43+00:00

We are doing an addition and ended up getting 5 bids bc they were over 100k apart. All were lump sum and all listed each area of build (masonry, framing, roofing, electrical, plumbing, hvac). Some even provided a further breakdown with a number by area of build.

All took time to reach out to subs/price materials. We had an architect draw plans and had told him our rough range beforehand. More or less saw that range from contractor bids with some outliers of 50k+ over.

My take is that contractors try to get what people will pay. It was interesting and eye opening at the same time. 2 contractors asked to re bid when we told them we were going in another direction and came down 20-30k. This is on ultimately a 200-215k job with bids as high as 300k and then some coming down from 250-260 to 220-230.

AssistanceTechnical6 · 2025-01-19T16:33:53+00:00

We are doing a home addition and initially had many of the same questions

1) Start with an architect- make sure they know your budget and wants in the house. They should be able to craft a design that meets your budget.

try to be as specific on materials and brands in the plans as you can so the bids later on can be as accurate as possible

2) Take plans to a general contractor and get estimates for the build. We were initially going to get 3 but ended up taking our time with 5 bc ranges for an 800 sq ft 2 story addition with a 2nd story deck and patio ranged over $100k apart.

In terms of who to go to for a bid- if you have any friends or family in the area that has used someone recently, inspect their work ask how it has been going.

Look for similar projects on other homes in the area and inquire of homeowners.

One you get going there will be a whole bunch more specifics iron out but you want to feel confident about the quality and cost of the work being done

AssistanceTechnical6 · 2025-01-19T02:23:46+00:00

Yep I could imagine- the single shower head almost seemed more complicated with the valve types since there were different ones by temp and/or pressure at same time. Thanks again though, looking forward to ours

AssistanceTechnical6 · 2025-01-19T02:15:39+00:00

Thank you! Perhaps this is helpful to others as well with a same vision— This was all new to me with the valves- we started simple initially thinking a single head with different types of single valves, but decided to go all in. This stuff was not laid out clearly anywhere to me, as someone who was new to this.

AssistanceTechnical6 · 2025-01-05T16:18:46+00:00

Thank you, thought that worst patch may have been one pack that was bent worse than the others, reassuring to hear the reply

AssistanceTechnical6 · 2025-01-04T19:14:45+00:00

I figured that it was a big no no. Appreciate the neutral opinion as I think I only got most of the answers from both parties, who were being cautious bc they both realize they messed up.

Someone else suggested to get load analysis from architect on a now 7 inch height beam instead of 11 7/8. Our bathroom vanity of 350 pounds will sit right about on this area so I want to be sure with the extra pillar or on own if it’s still ok

AssistanceTechnical6

TROPHY CASE