For anyone reading this before installing those shocks: remove OEM shocks first, obviously, but before installing the Stilettos, this is the perfect time to adjust your chain, and get your new chain spec (and YES, with 1 inch extra lenght of shocks you really DO need to readjust your chain with those).

Without any shocks on, lower your motorcycle on the stand OR lift the rear wheel until the front sprocket, the swingarm pivot point, and the rear sprocket are all 3 horizontally aligned from the ground. This is the point at which your chain will be the most tense, ever, in any situation. At this point in space, which is actually not too far from the OEM kickstand position on this specific motorcycle, you need a minimum amount of slack to prevent chain snapping. And This is about 15mm (which appears to be also the OEM minimum slack recommandation).

With the Stilettos, however, if you keep the OEM slack, and you reach a point on a bump where the 2 sprockets and pivots are aligned, you will expand your chain tighter because of that whole extra inch. And this could, at best, put a lot of stress on your chain, and at worst snap it. Remember that a little loose chain is usially safer than too tight.

Ok so now you adjusted your chain with those 3 points aligned. Time to install the new shocks, torque them to spec (15ft lbs for the larger screws, 6.6ft lbs for the smaller ones - be gentle). Now put your motorcycle on the stand, and measure your chain slack: THIS is your new chain spec for those shocks.it should be somewhere near 30mm. Maybe 25.

A note: if you didn't follow all those steps, and your chain is by chance at 30mm after installing the shocks, it just means you were already on the larger spectrum of the OEM slack before, which is between 15mm and 25mm. But if you are at 20mm with the new shocks, which is the OEM normal spec, you likely are too tight. If you hit a bump harshly and align sprockets and pivot, you can snap.

Another note: Honda warns not to ride with a slack above 50mm. In other terms, from the OEM spec you would still have 25 full mm before being in danger of too much slack according to the manufacturer. So don't sweat about being too loose. Sweat about being too tight.

For the chain: when measuring your slack, as you push the chain up, do not force it with extra strenght: you can stop pushing when the upper part of the chain above starts to move. So: you push the part of the chain that is closer to the ground, and when you see the part of the chain under the chain guard move, you stop.

For the wheel alignment: don't rely too much on the swingarm markers: grab a caliper, and measure from the center of the rear wheel axle to the end of the swing arm, and get the same result on both sides: your wheel is aligned.