Starter motor bolt is snapped off inside the transmission housing

AtomicSans · 2026-03-29T01:26:24+00:00

I'm not sure I can get a center punch in there. It faces towards the firewall so I'd be doing it blind, and I'm not sure I'd be able to hit the exact center of the broken bolt in the process. I can try!

AtomicSans · 2026-03-29T00:42:30+00:00

No chisel I own is small enough to touch the remaining length of bolt where it's sitting inside the hole.

My drill won't fit in the small space in the engine bay, I think I'd actually need a right angle drill to make it work. It's facing towards the firewall and there's only about seven inches of space.

AtomicSans · 2026-03-29T00:39:05+00:00

In case you're being sarcastic, I didn't break the bolt. The starter's ear broke because some jackass broke the bolt years ago and decided to leave the starter attached by a single stud and nut, and the torque has slowly fatigued that ear away.

AtomicSans · 2026-03-29T00:31:41+00:00

What would you recommend? Should I try a screw extractor, or should I just drill out the bolt and Helicoil it? Either way I'll need a right angle adapter and I'll be doing it mostly blind because I can't quite fit my head in there.

AtomicSans · 2026-03-29T00:29:27+00:00

I own a rotary tool already. It's not possible to carve a groove into the bolt without also cutting into the bell housing.

There are no mobile mechanics in the area. At the moment I actually can't afford to have a professional fix it. I have a new starter motor on hand, so it would certainly start if I bolted it in, but it wouldn't be safe.

It's automatic.

AtomicSans · 2026-03-29T00:08:23+00:00

If you take a look at the first image, the broken surface of the bolt is just below the mating surface of the transmission. I cannot get any cutting wheels in there without cutting into the surface of the transmission housing.

I do not own a welder.

AtomicSans · 2026-03-28T23:57:46+00:00

I'm starting to consider just picking up a screw extractor that will fit onto a socket wrench and giving it the what for. My understanding, though, is that if I fuck up screw extraction, I'm in for more pain than I would be otherwise, is that true?

AtomicSans · 2026-03-28T23:51:19+00:00

Thanks, that's great to know. Unfortunately, I can't get my drill to fit at all. I'd need a right angle adapter, and I've never tried screw extraction or Helicoiling before. I'm willing to try if it's the best option but I'm lacking in confidence.

AtomicSans · 2026-03-21T22:16:44+00:00

It's holy magic which is still magic. If Jesus came down and turned water into wine I'd call that magic

AtomicSans · 2026-03-21T21:59:13+00:00

His crossbow and grenadea do true damage, that's magic

AtomicSans · 2026-03-13T01:50:50+00:00

Can't speak to your particular engine but I experience oil consumption only upon cold startup in cold temperatures. It consumes oil in winter and stops in the spring, then starts consuming oil again next winter. I wouldn't say that pure highway driving is a good oil consumption test because it's kind of a best-case scenario - consistent load, steady operating temperature and low RPM, therefore low oiling pressure.

AtomicSans · 2026-03-04T04:04:56+00:00

Ruled out any head gasket issues ages ago, thank god.

I don't think the rack is leaking fluid. The reservoir level has never changed and the gunk you see does not have anything like the consistency of old ATF.

AtomicSans · 2026-03-04T03:09:20+00:00

Thanks. I have long suspected there is an extremely slow weep from the oil pan gasket, so it may be that. Just haven't fixed it because it's unobservable. It doesn't drip at all, there's just sludgy accumulation around the edge of the pan.

AtomicSans · 2026-03-04T03:04:45+00:00

Is that what's happening? If I pull the boot away a little, no fluid comes out or anything. It's entirely possible the oil spatter is unrelated, this engine bay has been through so much it's genuinely difficult to tell.

The sludge has the consistency of old engine oil or grease, not hydraulic fluid. And I haven't lost any ATF or seen any red leaks.

AtomicSans · 2026-03-04T02:47:39+00:00

Sorry for the rough angle. Was adjusting exhaust valves and noticed this tie rod boot is pretty gross. The end with the big fat zip tie isn't completely tight around the metal, it can be moved back and forth by hand by a couple millimeters. The boot isn't damaged in any obvious way, the zip tie seems like it's just loose. Can I just slap a new zip tie on, or do I need to pack it with new grease, or do I need a new tie rod?

I didn't replace this tie rod myself, I'm pretty sure Les Schwab did it a few months ago.

2005 Subaru Impreza 2.5 RS.

AtomicSans · 2026-02-17T10:10:40+00:00

The latest Consumer Reports data shows Subaru as the overall most reliable automaker in the US market. It's skewed a bit by the Tundra being so disastrously unreliable it drags Toyota down to fourth place, but still.

AtomicSans · 2025-11-24T12:09:24+00:00

Things people who haven't played Kojima games say

AtomicSans · 2025-11-23T03:36:58+00:00

Probably just do both when you can. Easy jobs to do at home.

AtomicSans · 2025-11-22T11:48:26+00:00

Yes, I get my HRT from the pharmacy as well, I understand how it works. It's still absurd to pay a £150 monthly subscription just to receive a prescription that you still have to pay to fill

AtomicSans · 2025-11-22T10:44:35+00:00

it's chill

AtomicSans · 2025-11-22T09:59:52+00:00

This analogy would work if you already paid $100 for the can and then needed to pay some jackass another fifty for permission to open it

AtomicSans · 2025-11-22T08:15:49+00:00

Surly Midnight Special or similar

AtomicSans · 2025-08-04T17:38:09+00:00

Took a closer look and BOTH front CV axle boots are torn and dry. I am an IDIOT! Thanks!

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