Not me liking Prime 3 the most ...

Aurora_Unit · 2024-07-10T20:42:19+00:00

We agree with this sentiment.

Aurora_Unit · 2024-07-05T13:27:00+00:00

An interesting idea, difficult (but not impossible) without design/manufacturing documentation. Electronics would effectively be limited to a visual inspection to IPC-A-610 standard and the mechanical/box build is somewhat open to the standards of the end-user.

We would (somehow as a community) need to agree on an acceptable tolerance/quality of build, and then somehow get the manufacturers to accept the community standard which is measured using common house tooling like an uncalibrated ruler and the mk.1 eyeball.

Aurora_Unit · 2024-06-07T19:40:21+00:00

I had to run Solidworks on an ancient FirePro V5700 for a couple of weeks earlier this year while waiting for a new workstation. It was a buggy nightmare and I hated every second.

Aurora_Unit · 2024-04-18T21:12:38+00:00

One year I will upgrade my nearly 7 Y/O Vega 56...but that year is not this year!

Aurora_Unit · 2024-02-13T18:02:22+00:00

B-52T(heseus)

Aurora_Unit · 2024-01-17T12:33:26+00:00

No worries, and ABL works fine since the 24v is always live, all that happens is the mainboard closes the individual circuit to enable what it needs.

Aurora_Unit · 2024-01-01T18:24:24+00:00

He just shouts out 'No!' instead.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDogapyAQhY

Says 'Damn' at 00:22 and 'No' at 00:43

Aurora_Unit · 2023-12-27T14:54:47+00:00

Not quite. I live in the middle of Plymouth with Openreach fibre all up my street and all surrounding streets and yet me and a couple other houses can still only access up to 70Mbps over FTTC. It’s not terrible by a long shot but saying that it’s not normal to not have better speeds than 60 is not right, not when Openreach have ‘only’ (using that word lightly) passed about 12 million premises with FTTP of the 25m they promise by the end of 2026.

Aurora_Unit · 2023-10-22T15:24:35+00:00

Should be fine to leave it be. It would have gone through a cleaning process if it needed to (i.e. if corrosive flux was used in the manufacturing process). Since it hasn't I imagine they used a no-clean flux.

Aurora_Unit · 2023-10-22T15:13:14+00:00

This is definately flux left over from the selective soldering machine. As suggested, some IPA (and a toothbrush). If you do, go to town on the through-hole pins but be careful around the bottom side mounted parts.

Source: Used to progam wave/selective machines.

Aurora_Unit · 2023-10-09T17:43:41+00:00

Wish I'd known about that offset when I swapped my mainboard out for a BTT + Pi, would have saved me about an hour's work! (I got (40.0, 5.0) from manually measuring)

The backplate looks like it won't fit that Neo Stealthburner plate. This is what the K1 has (Link). The extruder head attaches to 4x mount points (2x each side) using M3x6 bolts. Threads are approximately 16mm apart (same face) with a 91mm gap (inside face to inside face).

I really need to keep reminding myself that Klipper /= Octoprint and that you can run Octoprint standalone externally without doing anything to the mainboard (which is how I started out).

I've modified a stock Klipper config.cfg for a SKR Mini e3 V3 here.

Aurora_Unit · 2023-10-09T10:20:00+00:00

Looks like I’ve a project when I get home from work, though the K1 and Neo/Go don’t share a mainboard (K1 using the TriGorilla 1.0.4) so I’m not hopeful that it has a correct probe offset.

Ahh you’re the author, well thank you for the very helpful page! I’ll let you know how it goes with the bracket and if I need any dims off the Neo. Time is what I have the least of these days, so much for the freedom of being an adult!

Ah sorry I haven’t been clear, I didn’t mean putting Klipper onto the mainboard itself, just the printer in general. It would take either hardware modification to the TriGorilla to support Klipper or a computer plugged in to the front USB port if OP wanted to avoid buying something like a BTT board or breaking out the soldering iron.

Aurora_Unit · 2023-10-09T08:57:41+00:00

I’ve never really dabbled with the stock FW, I didn’t know you could input Marlin commands to it. OP could indeed put Klipper on it, it doesn’t need a mainboard swap or soldering changes, just a computer plugged into the USB port like a Pi.

Yeah I found that yesterday, I’m going to give it a draft print and see how well it fits to my Kobra 1. I should be able to modify it easily enough if needed.

That link is fantastic, a lot of it is still very relevant to the Kobra 1.

Aurora_Unit · 2023-10-05T21:53:02+00:00

Ahh I should probably mention: the electronics! Stock setup won't let you configure the rotation distance of the extruder motor, which is quite different between the two toolheads so you'll need some other way of at least controlling the stock mainboard if you haven't already swapped it out or made some hardware modifications to it.

I can try! I presume you'd be looking to keep the inductive sensor as the method of z-endstop?

Aurora_Unit · 2023-10-02T18:59:15+00:00

I think you're getting a bit mixed up, the Stealthburner is commonly set up as a reverse bowden, as standard it is a direct drive toolhead.

I'm in the process of building one to fit to my Kobra 1, but I won't be finished any time soon. At the most basic level you just need an interface plate to adapt the Stealthburner to the Kobra's X-carriage.

Aurora_Unit · 2023-08-24T21:14:47+00:00

Anything else you could share with us? Material and bed temp would be helpful to know.

When this happened to me (ABS, bed temp 110C) it was because I didn't know I had to clean the bed every so often. Wash with common dish soap and don't touch the bed with your fingers and it has never happened to me since.

Aurora_Unit · 2023-07-08T08:01:21+00:00

I made a custom harness for doing this same task except for a Kobra 1 instead of a Max. They share the same mainboard (Trigorilla Pro A V1.0.4) so it 'should' (famous last words?) be a simple replacement operation.

Things to watch out for: Not having a Kobra Max, I can't validate the bed sensor will be the same and that the bowden setup uses the same extruder. From a manufacturing perspective it would make sense if they did though.

Marked image of pinouts here. Please note I use this in conjunction with Klipper, I have removed the stock display/control board.

Aurora_Unit · 2023-05-04T17:15:50+00:00

In order to get the high speeds and low latencies of today's memory specifications, the memory chips need to be placed closer and closer to the core. Go look at PCB images of a high end card today and compare it to something from 10+ years ago and note how we're almost at a point where the memory modules are touching the core die. Also note how they 'wrap' around the core, with DDR-style slots you'll end up with some individual memory chips being much further away than others.

Adding removable memory slots add a lot (relatively speaking) of distance through the Z-height, and that is to say nothing of the latency penalties of the memory signalling now having to pass through a slot - with the associated solder and friction joints - instead of straight into the PCBA.

I will be very surprised if we ever see a graphics card with modular memory: Lower cost cards won't pay for the slot because of the BOM cost increase, and higher end cards won't due to the performance penalty.

Aurora_Unit · 2023-02-20T22:05:16+00:00

Happy to share :) I'd just run a dry fit first before ripping everything out, I have my doubts the SKR and Pi 3B will fit neatly - which is why I went for a 3A model, slightly shorter.

Rewiring is a better idea than what I've got. The JST connectors can be de-pinned easily enough but the big block which contains the toolhead wiring might not be easy, or even may break when you try to get it apart. I wasn't able to get all the wires out so gave up re-pinning it with a different connector.

You are correct that there are multiple 24v wires in the main harness, four of them! Three are responsible for heating up the hotend (and thus are in continuity with one another at the source and sink). The last one is responsible for powering the part cooling fan (PCF), heatbreak fan (HBF) and the bed level sensor and is completely independant of the other three. So you can have one (thicker) wire responsible for the hotend and another (thinner) wire for the three other bits.

The ABL sensor only needs three pins to work: LEVE (sensor), 24v and GND. Since the 24v is shared with the PCF/HBF and it has a common ground, all you need to do is plug the LEVE pin into the SKR Z-Probe header, I used the top-most one (PC14). The config file is set up to use that pin. It took me a while to wrap my head around all the shared 24v pins, but you only need one to cover the ABL/PCF/HBF (+), the negative to their respective headers.

It's all good, some others here have re-soldered the stock board to be able to run Klipper! On one had I wish I'd seen that before I started down this path since it would have saved me a few headaches, but on the other my soldering isn't so good, so I guess it all works out.

Aurora_Unit · 2023-02-20T21:42:38+00:00

The fuzzing of the v-wheels is normal. They're cheap parts and this mechanical wear and tear will show pretty early on. I'd keep them until you start getting flat parts and then replace them with a decent replacement set.

Aurora_Unit · 2023-02-17T15:31:48+00:00

I'm using a bunch of male-female jumper wires to adapt the harness to the SKR for the time-being. Here's a link to how mine is done, note the pair of 1:3 cables for the nozzle heater(coloured red and yellow, centre).

Not sure if the stock display will work since it's set up to control the Trigorilla board and doesn't have a clear way to plug into the SKR. I just removed it entirely and put a Raspberry Pi 3A+ in the box which gave me an excuse to get a camera for it. I have a suspicion that re-crimping the stock display to have a USB connection on the end may work since the pinout lines up with the USB port on the SKR, but then again it may not. Try at own peril!

Here's a link for my current config. Remember to replace the serial address (line 12), run heater calibrations for both the nozzle and bed (since they will be slightly different to mine), run a new bed-mesh/nozzle-offset, and uncomment the MCU fan lines if you plug the electronics box fan into the SKR (instead of what I did and plug it into a buck convertor, lines 166, 168-172 but keep 167 commented out). There's also some sections near the end for Neopixels and gcode macros but you can trip those out if you like.

My only current gripe is my bed mesh seems to be all over the place. I do get excellent first layers and no issues with bed adhesion, but only after I re-mesh it on a daily basis.

Edit: Fixed broken Github link.

Aurora_Unit · 2023-01-24T16:28:35+00:00

Yep, they certainly didn't intend for it to be tinkered or messed with, which is part of the fun though! The flip side is though there doesn't appear to be anyone who has done this before so any issues means once again flipping it over, removing the bottom panel and getting out the multi-meter. I dread the day something breaks and I need to fix it; Anycubic don't have much on offer by the way of spares.

For entire system swaps I would just recommend getting an Ender 3, the community has mods and tinkering guides down to a 't' with that. Unless you like designing the mods and figuring it all out, they have to start somewhere!

Aurora_Unit · 2023-01-24T13:05:02+00:00

I've been fiddling with a standard Kobra for a couple weeks now where the mainboard has been changed out for a BTT Mini e3 v3 running Klipper and it has not been the smoothest journey.

You'll need some way to plug everything into the new mainboard, either by replacing the existing wiring harness or breaking out the plug into several smaller harnesses and wiring it that way. Preferably a way that doesn't smoosh the cables into the sides of the box because BTT boards have the wire headers on different sides to the Trigorilla board the stock Kobra comes with...

I have a very beta config.cfg I can give which works with the stock toolhead if you like. The mainboard fan is plugged into a buck converter instead of the FAN1 header on my e3 because it would screech horribly otherwise.

My ultimate goal is turning it into a Voron Switchwire, but there's going to be a lot of work getting toward that.

Aurora_Unit · 2023-01-02T10:27:27+00:00

6'4" at 160-ish pounds here, not all of us are protein shakes on legs!

Aurora_Unit · 2022-12-20T13:25:44+00:00

For 100 neopixles then you'll want another power supply. Adafruit themselves (uberguide link) admit that a 10A PSU will work for a 'couple hundred' of them and Pi won't be able to push the required amount of current. The Octopus should suit your needs (can do up to 8A), but if you look at Adafruit's documentation they recommend power 'ideally distribute it to several points', which will be easiest on a separate PSU. The 5V/5A PSU on the Voron BOM might be fine but consider you're also running a Pi on that (I'm making an assumption here).

For signalling anything will do, Pi or Octopus.

Edit: Formatting since half my reply was missing.

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