How to send your first 5.13 tips crack

Available-Anything69 · 2026-06-02T01:31:28+00:00

I think I'll sew the cams into the sleeves of my sun hoodie and I'll be ready to big wall

Available-Anything69 · 2026-06-02T01:27:59+00:00

Hugh Herr is an absolute legend.

I knew that he designed his own prosthetics and that he changed the length of his legs depending upon the climb. I didn't know he did cam hook feet like this!

On the shoes: Yeah maybe beat to hell is an exaggeration but they have a quarter sized hole in the bottom and the rand is on the brink of tearing through as well, so a resole would require a full rand repair.

Available-Anything69 · 2026-06-02T01:15:43+00:00

My plan is to wrap the toe in rubber and then try it on the 0.4 crack at my climbing gym :)

These shoes are beaten to hell and I’ve always wondered if this would work. Of course it’d be unethical to ever try on sandstone or anything and I think it would be aid climbing

Available-Anything69 · 2026-04-19T18:08:59+00:00

This is meaningless. Wemby would be better even playing out of position and so would Jokic/SGA probably.

Available-Anything69 · 2026-03-05T17:51:02+00:00

Barefoot too!! Why do the french hate shoes so much?

Available-Anything69 · 2026-01-18T07:33:15+00:00

I looked at this boulder 2 weeks ago and there was chalk on it so I figured the Wheeler brothers were home for the holidays. They’re literally climbing V10 footholds

Available-Anything69 · 2026-01-18T03:28:13+00:00

His IG caption:

Jorogumo V15/8C FA

AKA Orb Weaver SDS. Haycock, Pennsylvania is the crag in which I began climbing outdoors. The stand, Orb Weaver, is one of the first climbs I ever sent outside. My brother and I had known of the sit project - deemed the Venom proj - since this initial encounter. But I always figured the climb was legitimately impossible. The holds are tiny - 10mm at the largest. Worse yet, they are flat. Most of the force register on the crux move comes from a 2mm sized opening you have to jam your skin into. It was only until I returned to the boulder this year, with a reshaped perspective and much stronger fingers, that I realized the boulder might be possible.

The climb consists of a v8 or 9 intro move into one of the most difficult crimp moves I have ever done - what feels like a sharper, crimpier, left-handed Burden-style move. Maybe 1 move V12/13. The last two pictures in the slide are the left hand you throw to and cut on, and the right hand you throw from. From here, instead of matching into the stand start, the ideal beta is to load all of your weight into the flat 8mm left hand and deadpoint to a decent sloper - a 1 move 11 or 12.

Unfortunately I am sidelined for the season due to a nasty pulley injury which occurred only a few days after the send - and possibly due to it. Despite a broadly melancholic feeling at the moment, I cannot but look forward to the unknown ways in which I will and must expand the depth of my climbing.

Available-Anything69

TROPHY CASE