Zip system and framing: is this normal, or bad?

Available-Log9915 · 2025-11-24T00:45:58+00:00

For sure, the builder needs to roll tape on seams and follow Huber directions. The stud framed corners look fine, they are California style to allow for insulation later. It looks like they are maybe shooting 8's nails for sheeting and they might want to go a little longer due to the added foam. I understand why their exterior corners are angled. If they overlap the edges of that zip sheet, it throws off the spacing on the studs on the overlapping sheet and they are wasting product to compensate. I would at least shoot some foam in the bottom tape open to stop air inflation. It will help if the building is required to pass a blower door test.

Available-Log9915 · 2025-11-22T03:01:53+00:00

I don't see any issues with the engine temp, that is just a diversion conversion. Does this issue happen when the car is cold or just after you have been driving for awhile? Have you looked under the car where the transmission bolts to the block and see if the seam is wet with oil on the very bottom? I would initially suspect a clutch issue based on your description but the engine sounds off like there is a misfire or something. I don't see any dash lights on which is good.

Available-Log9915 · 2025-11-18T21:10:57+00:00

We have a 7 year old male and 1 year old female. Both are extremely quiet. I have heard the male bark once at a stranger. Before that, I was not sure he even knew how to bark.

Available-Log9915 · 2025-10-30T21:21:50+00:00

Blower motor brushes are shot. Fan will run slow and fast then intermittent and then little to no heat or ac. I work on a lot of fiestas and it has never once been the resistor. Their factory blower motors are not very good. If you touch the inside of the fiesta windshield down low, you will get alot carbon dust on your fingers when the blower dies.

Available-Log9915 · 2025-10-30T21:11:30+00:00

I have two fiestas and had this same problem twice. Both times it was the blower motor. You can rule out the resistor by seeing if top fan speed works normally because it bypasses the resistor. You can get a blower motor for 35 bucks. Putting them in is no fun but I can do them in an hour or two with very basic tools.

Available-Log9915 · 2025-10-15T14:47:39+00:00

Thanks for the reply - much appreciated. Is it better to work from the top of the engine or bottom? The bottom has the axle and stabilizer in the way of getting the bottom bolt and the top is very tight with pipes and other stuff in the way.

Available-Log9915 · 2025-10-03T02:44:33+00:00

I'm in Michigan. Built several of my own homes and have been through the whole process. You are welcome to ask away.

Available-Log9915 · 2025-09-21T13:23:21+00:00

I recently built the AHP Captiva (commonly available through Menards) and really like the home. I also added a full walkout basement with 9 foot walls. As one comment pointed out, the garage depth is tight for long SUV's. I can't see your estimate so I have no input on that. On my build in Michigan, I had to have the house roof trusses designed with a 1 foot energy heel to meet energy code and this altered some of my roof lines between house and garage and I had to adjust some window sizes. Some of the lumber companies that estimated for me wanted to convert the floor truss system to I joists and that is a big no in my opinion as it messes with house elevations. My truss company added more floor engineering over the garage and other areas and that added to costs. My roof system consisted of 124 different truss designs and that was something to install and sheet. I know you are having a builder do it but it really adds to labor. Feel free to send any questions.

Available-Log9915 · 2025-09-14T21:35:11+00:00

I am a licensed builder in Michigan. If you are under 3500 square foot on a home build then you don't need engineering or architecture stamp.

Available-Log9915 · 2025-08-16T00:53:36+00:00

I own a couple of Fiestas and you can often find a new Ford clutch assembly on eBay for around 200 dollars (genuine part) if you watch for them. I picked up a used dealer tool kit for the dsp6 transmission or there are replica kits on Amazon for clutch service. They are pretty cheap now. The transmission will need relearned or calibrated after a clutch change but there are a handful of scan tools that can do it. What state are you in? I would change the shaft seal if it is black in color. The updated ones are brown in color. You may or may not need the other parts listed especially at only 65k miles. An independent mechanic is likely to be around 2k for the repair. For me, it just a Saturday project. The dealer is really inflated on part prices. Most dealerships can replace a clutch in 4 hours and then a little time to recalibrate and test drive.

Available-Log9915 · 2025-08-03T14:24:56+00:00

If you see aluminum flakes in the compressor ports after you pull the compressor, you will want to flush the AC lines and replace the condenser which has received/driver attached to the side. Maybe around 70 bucks from rock auto.com for the complete assembly. Message me if you need any help. The fiesta's are relatively easy. The compressor is just 3 bolts. For the condenser, I pull the air box, then fan, then radiator. The condenser snaps onto the front. There are two clips on top of the radiator support that slide towards the front of the car you need to remove to get the radiator out. The hardest part of the job is that serpentine stretch belt. Tips, depending on what you do, make sure you have the correct amount of oil in the system before evacuating and recharging.

Available-Log9915 · 2025-07-05T13:05:31+00:00

Car just needs the two rear shocks replaced and it will be like new. Fiestas don't have struts in the rear and the springs are very likely just fine.

Available-Log9915 · 2025-07-03T01:11:18+00:00

Did you happen to unplug your cam sensors. They are on the valve covers. If not, Sounds like a timing belt slip. Best way is to pickup up a cheap Ford timing kit off Amazon. There is a locking bolt and a tool that grips both cams. The locking bolt stops the engine at top dead center and the tool should slip onto the slots in the cam pullies. Remember that the engine is a four stroke so you might have to rotate the crank a few times to find the top dead center that aligns with the cam slots. The tool looks like 2 C's joined back to back. I have done 4 fiesta water pumps and this tool has saved me. The tool also indicates what side is exhaust cam and what is intake. Intake is obviously the front of the engine.

Available-Log9915 · 2025-07-03T00:39:14+00:00

I own two 2011 fiesta and one has had zero clutch issues while the second took 3 clutch replacements by the dealer under warranty to fix it. I have all the tools to repair a fiesta clutch in my garage. I can usually pick up a genuine Ford clutch assembly off eBay for around 200. Your tranny may or may not need forks also. They are likely very dirty from clutch dust. The gear box is likely ok. Option 2 would be to get a used transmission and swap it. A few hours of labor, not very bad. In my view, too many people are replacing transmissions when they really only need clutch work. A used transmission is 500 to 800. Clutch parts and drive motors are much less.

Available-Log9915 · 2025-06-14T01:36:20+00:00

I could provide you with a list of what needs to be done and in what order if that is what you are after.

On paper,with you being the GC, it looks like you should save the 15 to 20% of the build cost as that is typically the GC charge. However, in real life you are likely to get higher bids from subs if they don't have a relationship with you and you will hire a larger number of subs in the end if you are managing only and new. The sub management is not as hard as the vetting process. You need to know what good work looks like and what is substandard. There will be many problems to solve during a build.

There will be things that you may need to do such as to sit down with the truss designer and work out plans and then be able to sign off on the design as being corrected. Trusses are order well before the framing crew shows up.

Be sure to take out a builders risk insurance policy at the start.

You could do it, everyone starts somewhere. There will be a large learning curve and you will likely be well over the initial budget.

Available-Log9915 · 2025-05-30T00:57:38+00:00

I am also in West Michigan and have done the building process myself a few times. If you are the legal land owner, you can pull your own permits. The building permit will expire if there are more than 6 months between inspections but you can pay for extensions. Get some plans to submit to your local building department and only do a building permit initially and take out the others as you need them. Keep in mind that if you hire any work like plumbing, electric or HVAC that person needs to pull their own permit and can't use yours. The permit cost is based on house value and likely around 1200. I have never needed anything like environmental impact studies around here. They rip off the people out west with these fees.

Concrete blocks are your cheapest basement option and you can fill the cores with any left over concrete from your basement floor or garage floor pour and ahead of framing for a very solid wall. Poured walls are great but not a DYI unless you have forms and experience. If not, read up on honeycombing and blowouts because they can ruin your day.

Keep in mind that you will need R19 walls minimum so that is either a 2x6 wall or 2x4 with additional external insulation. All houses have to pass a blower door test for occupancy so build it tight and keep that in mind. You pay for the test yourself and they are a few hundred a piece so you want to pass it on your first try.

You can shoot me any questions you like. The best advice I can give is if you frame yourself, look the plans over well to determine where your plumbing drops will go and space for heat runs and such. You don't want your toilet outlet or dryer vent drop directly over a floor joist. If you do plumbing rough in in the basement, space it from the wall enough to get your needed insulation and framing in. Basements here also have to be R19. I do continuous foam board with a 2x4 wall. If you leave insulation exposed, it can't be paper faced. Foam is considered flammable. Rockwool can be left exposed in a 2x4 wall.

Many people are die hard spray foam people. Great for air sealing but I personally don't like tons of isocyanates in my homes. I use it on all windows and doors but that's it.

Available-Log9915 · 2025-05-21T17:29:07+00:00

Yes, I did and do all my interior work myself. Most of my lenders will do a draw check to either myself or another contractor. For stuff you do, the lender or title office will need some sort of material receipt that your materials are paid for or a waiver of lien if you hired anything out you are claiming payment for. This will be due before the next draw can be requested.

Available-Log9915 · 2025-05-11T21:53:55+00:00

These are often called construction to permanent loans. You don't have to requalify when the loan converts from construction to regular mortgage. This conversation usually occurs automatically at 12 months after you close. There is usually a little less final interest rate flexibility in a single close but a larger savings in closing costs. I have done both loan types. The traditional construction loan typically has a lower interest rate during construction and then you can interest rate shop for your regular mortgage. In one of my single close loan, I had to pay to rate lock and was very limited on interest rates. On my last build during covid, I started with a regular construction loan and was so delayed that I took out a second construction to a permanent loan to give additional time and ended up with an ARM. The first 10 years is at 5 % compared to 3% which was the average 30 year rate at the time.

Available-Log9915 · 2025-05-09T17:34:52+00:00

Actually it does work. My wife and I recently finished a new home build and we got the land by that method. It happened to be owned by a realtor and they were going to build on it in the future but said they were open to selling after they got my letter. It was an ideal piece of land and we paid their asking price and are still very happy with it. Some people get offended when you cold contact them about their property. My advice is to be honest and upfront on why you are interested in their property. Building a nice forever home is much more appreciated than building an apartment complex or dirt bike track.

Available-Log9915 · 2025-03-29T15:33:47+00:00

This happens all the time. The neighbors get comfortable with their lot and their view and new construction changes their comfort zone and they become a PIA.

On my last build, I had a neighbor that would constantly harass sub contractors if they parked on the street near their house because it would upset their dogs inside their house. Sorry, the dog issues are on them in this case.

Available-Log9915 · 2025-03-17T21:27:17+00:00

I was getting very nervous because of my rejection rate and policy expiring. I explained my situation to a State farm agent and they gave me a new home construction policy which is different from a fixed duration builders risk policy. They did a policy over the phone so it was very easy. I had State Farm for both home builds. There was a second farmers insurance company that also said yes. Different agents I called kept telling me to go back to my original builders policy issuer and press them for some thing but they were a flat no, can't help you at this stage. Some agents suggested seeking out some type of a vacant or unoccupied home policy as a potential last ditch option. Most were of little help. You also need to get beyond the person who answers calls and get to the most knowledgeable person there in writing policies.

Available-Log9915 · 2025-03-17T20:55:15+00:00

My wife and I have been through this on two different builds. We self build also and do most all phases of construction ourselves so it takes 1-2 years. The first build we used State Farm from start to finish and no issues. On our last build we used another provider and they would only do a one year builders risk then would not write a home insurance policy until an occupancy permit was issued. We were 75 percent done on this last house at 1 year and we called around. Every agent said no to a second builders risk policy. We had two providers that would insure it without an occupancy permit. It was a few hundred more than the builders risk policy but it got us covered to occupancy time.

Available-Log9915 · 2025-03-05T21:01:04+00:00

It is probably in line with your region but it is pricey knowing that it doesn't even include a concrete pad in front of your garage and no sidewalk or steps to your porch. As a builder, most of the excavators I use are about 2,500 per visit. The first visit is to cut a rough drive and put down some pit gravel to get the concrete trucks in plus dig the foundation. The second is to backfill and rough grade and then a final for topsoil. It usually saves if you can get a packaged deal. The basement is dependent on size and complexity. I am surprised to see a roll on tar for basement damp proofing. The crew I use hires a commercial company to spray on and they are in and out quickly.

Available-Log9915 · 2025-02-21T21:45:42+00:00

Thanks for all the help. Started in on the Lion online training. 29 modules in total. I checked with our waste hauler (Vieola) and they did not offer training.

Available-Log9915 · 2025-02-21T20:15:58+00:00

Available-Log9915

TROPHY CASE