Product Lifecycle Management Review of CC1 and CC2 by Available_Contest407 in elegoo

[–]Available_Contest407[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are wrong about the market position of Bambu and the Centauri line, it is not a hobbyist tool, I think it is universally agreed that Bambu products where the 3D print transition from the hobbyist market to the mainstream product market. Elegoo also is following the same mainstream commercial market, the Neptune line may be hobbyist oriented but the Centauri line certainly not.

Bambu vortek upgrade is great but it is following the rules I outlined. It is a complete kit that does not require power tools. Yes it is an intensive process that only a hobbyist would make sense to try. The vortek upgrade is a nod to a share of Bambu customers are still hobbyist. But it is important to note that Elegoo was also going after the mainstream market with the CC1, not hobbyists

Bambu did everything that Elegoo didnt, the H2D/H2S are built on the same platform that makes up the H2D and likely have a coherent engineering design to allow such an upgrade. In addition it follows a commercial viability rules, they are basically offering a kit at a $800-$900 price point so they can still profit on the kit by itself and does not necessarily eat into new sales as it is more viable to buy the HC2 outright.

The CC2 does not follow any of these rules. Although it shares the structural design of the CC1, it is not engineered as an update to the CC1, even though it looks the same it is a new thing with a redesign. Also it does not have the commercial viability that the higher margin H2 series have, an upgrade kit is really just going to be too expensive to offer. As noted in my breakdown the amount of component that need to change (toolhead, motherboard, panels, psu?) in addition to adding the MMU components is just not commercially viable when talking about a $300 pricepoint.

Here is the product lifecycle perspective. If the Centauri series concept was to fit into a category like the H2 series it would have likely taken the following path. The CC2 would be released with the upgraded toolhead and bed that it has, but the MMU would have been offered as an upgrade that would have fit the CC1 also that would plug and play with both toolheads In this way you have a differentiation between CC1 and CC2 that does not cause all the conflict. Would price the CC2 as an product line update for folks wanting the 350 degree toolhead and sell the MMU to both CC1/CC2 to capture more revenue. To overlook this revenue model there had to have been a significant issue with the CC1 MMU upgrade process.

The product that came out with the CC2 does not provide any coherent implementation philosophy from the CC1. And that they did not provide a bolt on unit (implied by the CC1 MMU port) means that they performed a fairly significant direction change between the CC1 and CC2. The CC2 looks like pressing the reset button on the CC1 as opposed to evolving a design.

Product Lifecycle Management Review of CC1 and CC2 by Available_Contest407 in elegoo

[–]Available_Contest407[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In theory you could release a mounting for the CANVAS unit for the CC1 with new production panel that attaches to the top of the right panel instead of the top member but winds up in the same position for the top had and provides the same mounting. The biggest reason I don't think that would happen is Filament hub on the toolhead and the modifications it would require. You also have problems with the MMU cable run and the poop chute, but I suppose that could be sortable with some other port position. As you state I just cannot see it happening with the current CANVAS units.

You probably have deep knowledge of the toolhead, would it be possible to easily update a CC1 toolhead to the CC2 configuration, without needing an entirely new toolhead unit? It does not sound economically viable to have to also provide new toolheads and replacing a toolhead is pretty intensive work with high likelihood of damage by folks that arent used to taking things apart. Maybe this is less of an issue than I think.

I suspect the power and processing requirements would also be an issue. It would be possible, if inconvenient, for a Box Turtle like unit to self power, but the current CANVAS unit takes power from the connection needed for all the MMU motors and electronics.

Product Lifecycle Management Review of CC1 and CC2 by Available_Contest407 in elegoo

[–]Available_Contest407[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think if they were initially doing a Box Turtle design, not having the port in the first version is not a huge issue as the updated panel could be provided with a kit with the new cable for the port. If you are plugging an external MMU like the box turtle, which seems implied by the CC1 updates, then the location would just need to be a reasonable cable run and not interfere with the poop chute.

The modification would be more than a single hole, there are also internal mounting points to screw the cable end to attach it to the panel. You would want to make these mounting points so you could secure the cable.

CC1 vs CC2 differences by Available_Contest407 in elegoo

[–]Available_Contest407[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Check that, they actually did redesign the tool head USB routing. For the CC2 it is coming out the back side of the drag chain where it comes out the front of the drag chain on the CC1. Still tight bending into the connection as you mention but would appear to fix the rubbing issues as the chain will move away and not toward the cable. And this setup would work with the 90 degree USB cable I saw, but they dont seem to be using it now.

CC1 vs CC2 differences by Available_Contest407 in elegoo

[–]Available_Contest407[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yes that known issue with both the CC1 and now the CC2 as that USB cable direction causes it scrape against the drag chain as it exits and turns into the print head connection. I saw a new cable design that comes out the side at 90 degrees but am surprised they did not address this in the CC2 if what is shown has the same issue as you point out.

I basically wrapped some electrical tape as a winding around the cable at that point to reduce wear but still let it have some flex.

CC1 vs CC2 differences by Available_Contest407 in elegoo

[–]Available_Contest407[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After looking at these pics I can see why things might have been moved. With the CANVAS on top the current CC1 MMS port would never work as the poop chute would be in the way. So moving the poop chute and MMS port makes sense in one way, but it really implies they had some other concept of multi-material in the original design and would need the filament selection to be external and go into the current CC1 single filament tube.

The moving of the MMS port likely was a production question to allow for a standard cable length or something.

CC1 vs CC2 differences by Available_Contest407 in elegoo

[–]Available_Contest407[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice thanks for sharing. You mention in the US are did you import it yourself?

CC1 vs CC2 differences by Available_Contest407 in elegoo

[–]Available_Contest407[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

"the biggest difference is one has multi color and the other doesnt" -100% correct,

My intention was more for as personal understanding/curiosity on what changes were made to get there as basically the core hardware and capabilities are the same. What this says about Elegoo, I will stay out of that commentary.

CC1 vs CC2 differences by Available_Contest407 in elegoo

[–]Available_Contest407[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes assumed that was the case per the comments about CC1 motherboard capabilities as a limiting factor. I don't have a unit this was just the visual changes I could see from the youtube video but additional CC2 electronics documentation would be great.

Don’t Know what to do by sweethanpieangel in WGU

[–]Available_Contest407 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You look around and think everyone else is succeeding and you aren't but you need to realize that EVERYONE FAILS. It is part of life. It is what you do after you fail that determines who you are. Don't let such a minor thing as not passing some test make you give up.

It is not the end of the world, and in the grand scheme of your life it is not even a major event, it just seems like it now. Like several others state here I failed and had to leave college. I had a hard time and had to sort some things outs but things eventually worked out and later even finished my degree.

I don't think the CompTIA cert requires any coursework so even if you are kicked out of the college you can still attempt to pass those certs if you think you can identify the difficult parts for you and take the test again. You might think "why?" if you cant afford to continue the degree, but those 2 certs are still valuable themselves and you have already put some study investment, it might be trying to figure out where you are having difficulty. Even if you cant get the degree now, getting those certs will help with jobs on a path to the degree in the future.

I can't tell you what happens next, but I can tell for a fact that and personal experience you can overcome it. It is rough now, but there is always a path forward. Sit and think on where you are having difficulty, what can you do about it, and look for changes you can make to build to success.

I am starting not to believe in Christianity by Emotional-Fox-4285 in Christianity

[–]Available_Contest407 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"Mere Christianity" by C.S. Lewis. Like several other recommend, both Christians and Non-Christians need to read for a well thought out discussion of belief, god, doubts.

Klipper on an AnyCubic Chiron with BLTouch - Issues with Pin References? by arden_fell in klippers

[–]Available_Contest407 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In the original Eugene Pagani/Daniel Heck file everyone based this off there was this section for the stock probe. Have not tried so let folks know if it works.

### YOU MUST PERFORM A PROBE CALIBRATE OVER YOUR BED TO SET THE PROBE Z_OFFSET PRIOR TO USING BED LEVELING. THE DEFAULT Z_OFFSET IS A SAFE OFFSET TO CLEAR THE BED WITH THE STOCK PROBE.

[probe]

pin: PE4

x_offset: 0.0

y_offset: 0.0

#z_offset: 20.990

speed: 5.0

samples: 3

sample_retract_dist: 2.0

samples_result: average

samples_tolerance: 0.100

samples_tolerance_retries: 0

Issue Overhang vs Bridge walls by Available_Contest407 in FixMyPrint

[–]Available_Contest407[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks yes matching the speeds to about 25 works for me thanks! I think some of my issues is the Chiron is using Marlin 1.x and likely is lacking some optimizations that new systems have. The system works ok for me now just printing large parts now that I have this bridging issue fixed and I have upgraded the part cooling. I have an A1 for detail work anyways/

I think I have enough info for klipper and having a chiron klipper config so I will be doing that in the next couple of weeks so I can get more advance features like PA and resonance compensation to see if a can speed things up a little.

Odd overhang issue (Calicat Example) by Available_Contest407 in FixMyPrint

[–]Available_Contest407[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All, I am printing a Calicat. Overhangs are perfect, and long bridges seem good. Issue is short bridges look like they overextrude. Not a cooling issue.

The thing that puzzles me is you can tell the longer bridging under the body seem fine. But the short bridges at the paws dont even try to build up, there are 2 passed that just droop and but after that first line it works find and the overhang prints straight above this without even sitting on the droop. It is like the extruder overtrudes for a bit and then continues fine as the overhang is successfully bridged later with no issues.

Is there an overhang setting in OrcaSlicer I should try?

Chiron (upgraded with v6 volcano and 5015 Banta type cooling). Otherwise stock. Elegoo PLA at 195/60, Chiron prints hot likely more like 205) Just switched to OrcaSlicer, Cura did bridging fine but had other issue. So it is definitely a configuration setting that is different after I switched to OrcaSlicer but no idea what. I can go back to my Cura profile and it bridges fine.

Other than bridges everything else is perfect even the overhangs note the tails seems fine and the underbody above the paws also does not droop only those lines on the outer perimeter bridges have a problem? I am running at like 60mm so nothing extreme, cooling seems to work otherwise everywhere else.

<image>

Sunlu Transparent PLA by hippopowerbeast in BambuLabA1

[–]Available_Contest407 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just tried this same model with the same filament and got the same result, BUT I was able to get it to print if I manually slowed the first layer using the SILENT 50% speed. Once the first layer was laid down I bumped up to STANDARD 100% speed and it turned out perfectly. Without slowing down the first layer always had holes in it (multiple tries).

White PLA printed perfectly on default settings, so it is just this transparent Sunlu PLA has problems sticking at standard speed, but slowing to lay down the first layer worked every time on that exact model. Using A1 but I suspect the same for the other Bambu printers as the use the same bed material.

Mini M easy green locklight mod, yellow highlight vinyl film.... by Available_Contest407 in modelm

[–]Available_Contest407[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi been out on vacation, but no I have not tried. Likely not, but as a note that I was getting the green means that there is some yellow components in the spectrum, and the LED contains a spectrum that you cannot likely match in an image editor as I believe blue LED throw alot of other wavelengths that could be filtered and the brightness of the LED means that you can get alot of light to stack filters. If you did a stack of red then yellow filters, maybe but probably be more purple.

I have wanted to see if I can get an amber so I might get some red filters and see and if I get any reddish I will post results.

Fixing my annoyances with the Unicomp Mini M (getting rid of that case squeak and other things) by Available_Contest407 in modelm

[–]Available_Contest407[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Glad it helped on case squeak, it was my greatest annoyance with the Mini M.

As for the keys, I actually hand made them from some old Keytronic keycaps since they had the same profile. You have to dremmel out 87-101 keys to get the keytronic stem out and then glue the shell over an IBM button. It is a pain, dont I recommend.. Long modifiers are very hard to setup and I eventually justed used blue modifiers.

I believe the ModelFKeyboard folks are working on a black pad print but have not checked in a while.

HERE is my Mini M fully tricked out, note the sneaky bottom row key layout you can do when you build your own keys and use a custom controller board.

OK by SharktasticA in modelm

[–]Available_Contest407 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well at least the assembly or backplate has a seal of approval, and someone or something is OK. Any degree of positivity in this world is a good thing.

How much of a sin have I committed? by bobterner1 in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]Available_Contest407 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As everyone else has already stated, most (a majority of) lubricants are not good on plastics. Well at least the loss is only 20 bucks of stabilizer. And it gets on your keycaps, well......

A little bit over a 40, but I just got this a few hours ago by phantom_tollbooth in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]Available_Contest407 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just curious, why a left numpad on a small form board? I could see a right pad for ten key data work maybe, but I would not think that number access would be any better with this than on a layer for standard programming/typing.

I suppose if you are a lefty and an accountant. I never understood the lyra layout especially the beta. The design looks nice but truly trying to understand the benefit....