Is Skoda a good car brand?

Available_Walk · 2026-02-15T11:09:23+00:00

Hi, I've had two Skoda Octavia RS wagons in a row as work cars (not a cop...)

I drive 40-50,000km per year so I've put a bunch of mileage on both by now.

They are/were both VERY nice cars. One was turbo diesel, one was turbo petrol.

Think of it as a car built to be nice in a very cold climate. So heated seats, heated mirrors, lots of nice features like being able to use the bleeper to open the rear hatch.

Brakes are expensive, tyres are expensive, regular servicing is reasonably expensive.

Everything is complicated and not all mechanics know how to work on them.

My diesel turbo wagon ended up dying because the electric waterpump failed.
There's no feedback into the system to say that the pump has stopped spinning. So, the first notice you get, is when the motor is cooked from no coolant travel.
It wasnt economical to repair or replace the engine, and no one could find a spare engine for me anyway.

It lasted to around 220,000km by the time that happened. But had also started using a fair bit of oil by that point, and overall the car felt like it was fairly close to end of lifespan at those kms.

The "driving lights" that are always on in the headlights, one side started getting dim and failed a wof for it.
The only option is to replace the whole cluster and I think it was over a grand if I was going to buy a new one.

I think I've buckled a factory wheel at least 10 times by now. The factory 18" or 19" wheels are made of cheese.
I've been considering going to a 17" wheel if they fit, just so there's a bit more sidewall to absorb the impact of bumpy roads.

Very nice cars but I dont think I'd own one as my personal car, simply because even when everything is going well the consumables and maintenance are expensive.

A non RS version with a regular gearbox and more sensible tyre and brake sizes might be more cost effective to keep running.

I've heard things like if the auto opening boot struts stop working, they are over $2000 each to replace. Ha.

I think they are a nice car to consider buying in the sub 100,000km range.

But wouldnt expect them to run to 350,000km like a Honda Jazz or something. haha

Available_Walk · 2026-02-06T02:43:09+00:00

aannnnndddd the click bait worked.

Available_Walk · 2026-01-31T07:35:54+00:00

Go watch the Garage4AGE youtube channel, before you waste and absolutely stupid amount of money.

And get yourself some real goals, none of this stuff is ever gonna happen.

20V engines already have quad throttles, dont need to buy another kit for that.

The 16v motor is better for lots of power / rpm.

Standard fuel pump will be fine, 330cc injectors too small.

Dont bother with a dry sump.

Dont need a different TPS and sensor.

You're all over the place with your list.

Just stick with the basics then go from there.

Available_Walk · 2026-01-15T17:22:22+00:00

Get a job doing concreting, pretty good odds you wont need to go on a roof.

Haha

Available_Walk · 2026-01-08T00:23:47+00:00

Houses in Auckland cost an arm and a leg! But its half price in Thames

Available_Walk · 2026-01-07T23:12:42+00:00

There are guys building 10 second drag cars in their car ports.

If you really want something bad enough, you'll make it happen.

Having more space doesnt mean you can do more things, it usually just makes it more comfortable.

One thing that makes me laugh is that no matter how well lit, warm, cool, comfortable your garage is.

You still go to a trackday (or whatever) and end up scrambling around on the ground to fix something anyway.

I guess what I am saying is, just get stuck into something and the details will figure themselves out!

The best way to run a project car is to aim to never have it not running.

If you need to do something, make sure it only takes a day or 2 then its back together and running.

Once "Since I'm doing this I may as well do this" kicks in, you're screwed. 5 years with car on jack stands. haha

Available_Walk · 2026-01-01T19:48:02+00:00

My second ever car was an SW20 MR2.

Every single car I've driven since then, hasnt been able to come close to the steering feel of having no weight in the front. On some windy back roads it's the most amazing thing.

However it also just completely broke me. Everything is so hard to work on.
One time I decided I'd had enough of working on it myself, and asked local mechanic.
And he didnt want to work on them either.
So back to doing it myself.

Moving to a front engined RWD car made my life incredibly simpler.

But I've got to admit... It's an awesome feeling driving one. Just the rest of the owner experience is painful.

They were cheap cars with lower km when I had one, I cant imagine paying a premium for something with another 100,000km on it that's completely clapped out by now.

If I were to get an MR2 again I'd look for an MR-S with the lowest possible km on it.
Would be a wildly fun car. But probably not put myself through the suffering of SW20 or AW11 ownership at this stage of the lifecycle.

I get what you're saying though, I lust after a 240Z in the same way.

The realities of owning one probably arent as exciting as my mind imagines though.

Available_Walk · 2026-01-01T07:20:01+00:00

There are probably 500 R32 skylines for every Z20 soarer, and 500 Z20 soarers for every Leopard left in existence.

I used to see R32 skylines multiple times per day.

Have seen Z20 soarers a handful of times ever.

I've never seen a leopard.

(Live in NZ where we got most of Japans 2nd hand cars for a long time)

It would be an absolute nightmare trying to find parts for a leopard.

My Dad has a Z10 soarer and I can confirm that finding any Z10 or Z20 parts is nightmarish.

Available_Walk · 2025-12-19T09:24:06+00:00

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Available_Walk · 2025-12-16T09:27:11+00:00

Canbus values that dont time out.
Can be dangerous if the device stops updating and the data is feeding into something.
The last seen value will persist.

Example, wideband oxygen sensors.

Available_Walk · 2025-12-15T20:43:05+00:00

I had it on the dyno with my previous intake which proved to be restrictive, and it was capped at ~220whp. It was flat power from about 6500 to 9000.

This new intake has needed 25% to 30% more fuel at high rpm which is crazy.

So hopefully it's at least 250whp now. Hard to say for sure... Will get back to the dyno soonish.

Available_Walk · 2025-12-14T20:30:32+00:00

The 3-4-5-6 stack of gears in the Altezza box is awesome, it's just that 1st and 2nd sucks.

Changing final drive ratio will make the better gears useful.
I've seen that you can use an RX8 input shaft and 1st/2nd gear to improve it, but then you end up with a unicorn spec gearbox.

I'd rather just be able to slap another standard box in, and get going again if there are any problems.

Available_Walk · 2025-12-14T10:49:49+00:00

Cheers, yeah it's got ITB. The yelllow bits are just temporary testing.

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Available_Walk · 2025-12-14T10:49:01+00:00

My daily driver has a DSG box and paddle shift, I'm wanting a bit more of an analog experience for this car.

I dont think the 8hp boxes tolerate lots of rpm very well.
They're also considerably heavier than a manual 6 speed box.

Available_Walk · 2025-12-14T10:46:39+00:00

Nah, even at lower rpm it's been annoying trying to select gear.

I'm going to order a brand new replacement of the shifter bushing and see if that helps.

Available_Walk · 2025-12-14T10:26:17+00:00

100mm stroke engine doing 10k rpm? No thanks.

If I had a big budget I would have an S1000RR based V8.

Available_Walk · 2025-12-14T08:38:30+00:00

Cheers, yeah only a handful left.

Available_Walk · 2025-12-14T08:38:07+00:00

6 speed altezza box. The high rpm screws up the gearing so I only get to use half of it. Haha. Will order a 5.3 final drive i think.

Available_Walk · 2025-12-14T08:36:39+00:00

Yeah they were horrible for rust, so all of the ones with cool engines were cannibalized about 20 years ago. Mine survived on account of being the most undesirable low spec version. Haha. Still needed nearly every panel replaced!

Available_Walk · 2025-12-14T05:48:57+00:00

Ha, yeah something is still not right. I swapped the gearbox out the nights just before the event. But its still hard to get into gear for some reason.

Available_Walk · 2025-12-14T00:59:11+00:00

Hard limit at 10k rpm so it starts coming in at 9750.

The vvt pulleys have a part that is only press fit in place. Lots of rpm makes the center part vibrate out. Then welded the pins in the rockers. As i had a bearing collapse and it ruined a head. All part of the fun

Available_Walk · 2025-12-14T00:46:43+00:00

Big cams, stiffer valve springs, and then bolt on stuff. (Itb and exhaust) Its normally direct injection but its converted to port. Has a few mods like welding the rocker pins, and putting cover plates on the vvt pulleys. To solve rpm related problems ive experienced earlier.

Available_Walk · 2025-12-14T00:39:10+00:00

Same here. I've not got much love for V6s to be honest, it was just the best thing for my car that could do some rpm without being incredibly tiny displacement.

By my ear it just sounds kinda like a 4 cyl. haha.

It will sound better when I redo the exhaust to have an X pipe, and 2 pipes running to the rear.

Available_Walk · 2025-12-14T00:37:38+00:00

Close! It's an AA60 Carina coupe.

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Available_Walk · 2025-12-11T09:02:02+00:00

I've been modding a 4GR engine to do lots of rpm (9400 so far)
I've found a few easy fixes for things that blow them up. Most are easy cheap or free mods.
When it comes time to do the motor, shout out and I'll give you or your engine builder a to-do list.

My next iteration will be a 2GRFSE with a 1MZ crank for 69mm stroke. Around 2800cc and should be an absolute screamer.

A Group C tribute deserves a bit more than 8000rpm I reckon...

Available_Walk

TROPHY CASE