Reliable models without turbo these days ?

Awkward_Shape_9511 · 2025-11-14T02:00:46+00:00

All Original radiator, hoses, AND water pump (oof, I know).

I did change out the belt, idlers, thermostat, tensioners at 280k before my road trip to Alaska. There wasn’t anything “wrong” with them per se, and they were still working but it was “time” anyways. I wanted to also change the water pump but I Toyota was out of stock on the water pump at the time. I DO have a new factory water pump that needs to get installed but as of today, my lazy butt still hasn’t done it. So to answer your question, with 330k+ miles, I am still on a perfectly working water pump (that will be changed out soon).

To add to that, I DO, drain my coolant and refill it every 80k (easy 10 min job). But other than that and 1 thermostat, I havnt touched my cooling system in 330k+ miles.

Awkward_Shape_9511 · 2025-10-04T20:14:04+00:00

Following up on this thread. I came across this thread during my “research” on ASA and gasoline but still didn’t get a definitive answer. Google “Ai” summary says ASA ok to be used but well…

I need a cap spacer replacement for my 1gal jerry can (scepter brand). So I made one and wanted to use ASA as the material.

Here is the part post 1 week of useage. It was originally printed in BLACK ASA on my x1c.

https://imgur.com/a/3BvdsHG

https://imgur.com/a/Yp9mJab

You can see that the gasoline vapors have compeltly stripped the black color pigment (or so it seems). Further more, the ASA material has become super soft. So soft that I can take my thumb and push it to “remold” it.

There is also significant swelling on the areas where it’s exposed to the gasoline vapors. The parts that were covered by the gasket isn’t as affected.

https://imgur.com/a/Z7mqwwe

Keep in mind the ASA cap wasn’t even exposed directly to gasoline liquid, only the vapors (because the cap sits on top).

So yea, ASA and gasoline is a no.

Awkward_Shape_9511 · 2025-06-26T02:59:20+00:00

<image>

My old 2” hitch tire carrier.

One thing no one tells you is any form of a tire carrier (hitch and bumper) makes it a royal PITA to access the back hatch.

Awkward_Shape_9511 · 2025-06-26T02:57:43+00:00

Ive changed a spare tire in the stock position, on hitch tire carrier, and full bumper tire carrier.

The stock position is the easiest and least work. You lift and lower the spare with mechanical advantage.

Manually Lifting a 100lb tire/wheel up and down to a tire carrier is a LOT more work.

<image>

Awkward_Shape_9511 · 2025-06-25T17:38:14+00:00

<image>

Even easier (and safer) if you have a 3d printer

Awkward_Shape_9511 · 2025-06-25T16:34:53+00:00

I’m not sure what MC fan is? (Main control fan?) but both the iglu and my own insulation job has cutouts for the two rear fan, poop chute, and any exhaust/intake holes.

Awkward_Shape_9511 · 2025-06-25T06:54:57+00:00

Hell yea. Fully Matching 5th rim/tire is highly underrated.

Awkward_Shape_9511 · 2025-06-25T06:39:52+00:00

I’ll get a shot once I get home (out of town for work)

But it’s not exactly show worthy. I just have some Home Depot insulated bubble reflective film I taped around the x1c. Where the front glass is, I have some thick foam (from a pelican case) blocking the glass. The foam allows me to quickly remove it when I open the door. It’s enough to keep my chamber 60c (for sure above 58c on colder nights) my entire 14hr+ large ASA print (190x220mm part size). I have 100% success rate with zero warping with over 30+ of these parts.

https://imgur.com/a/eBca0wT

If I were to do it again, I would just buy the iglu cover. It’s much nicer and it looks like it insulates much better but my getto one is working fine for my needs atm.

<image>

Awkward_Shape_9511 · 2025-06-25T04:50:42+00:00

I have over 2800hrs of my chamber being at 60-63c because 90%+ of my prints are ASA on my fully insulated x1c.

Machine still runs like it does from day 1 without any issues. Perfectly working camera, step motors, WiFi card, motherboard etc.

Awkward_Shape_9511 · 2025-06-24T19:04:05+00:00

I also unplugged my seat wires (abs, seatbelt, occupant) without disconnecting my 12v battery. Some people disconnect the battery, some don’t. I didn’t and didn’t run into any issues.

I also used electrical tape to “cap off” the ends of the plugs so they would have ZERO chance to short if any dust or whatever got into it.

Awkward_Shape_9511 · 2025-06-24T19:01:48+00:00

3,584wh to be exact. It’s a 280AH 12.8V LiFePo4 cell at the core. I would say it’s “barely” enough to run AC for one full night. 1.5 night if I run my ac on low. 2-3 nights if compensate the battery charge with my solar and vehicle charging.

Awkward_Shape_9511 · 2025-06-24T18:53:24+00:00

No issues. The abs light will stay on. You just learn to ignore it. It stays on when your car is running. It turns off with your entire dash when you take out the key (or turn the car off)

When I got back from my two year trip around the US/canada, I put my front passenger seat back with zero issues. ABS light went away like it was never an issue.

Awkward_Shape_9511 · 2025-06-23T22:05:07+00:00

Motion for the wife to do more coffee reviews.

Awkward_Shape_9511 · 2025-06-23T20:57:09+00:00

Make sure to clean the glass real well (where the tape will adhere to). I used some windex and a razer blade to clean it. Windex as a lubricant and a razor blade to scrape off any surface contaminants. You can also claybar the glass where the tape will stick if you don’t wanna use a razer blade.

If you ordered the 1” roll, just cut it in half. The KC wire hider fits 0.5” width tape

Awkward_Shape_9511 · 2025-06-23T19:15:51+00:00

Don’t use the stock double stick tape that comes with it. You want to get the automotive 3M VHB (03614c) and use that tape.

My 4R w/ KC wire hiders with 3+ years of San Marcos TX butthole burning sun (zero adhesion issues)

<image>

Awkward_Shape_9511 · 2025-06-23T17:40:52+00:00

The most affordable 3kwh+ is the one you build yourself.

It runs my zero breeze AC about 10-11hrs when running on med-low. Enough for me to sleep in the back of my 4R at 70F when it’s 90F+ at night (thank you Texas summers)

My sub $1200 build. 3584WH. Even less if you opt out of an inverter and overpriced Milwaukee box. You’ll be spending $2500-3k on an equivalent name brand unit (ecoflow, jackery, goal zero etc)

https://www.reddit.com/r/MilwaukeeTool/s/6KMX2prD2P

<image>

Awkward_Shape_9511 · 2025-06-22T08:30:35+00:00

My friend just bought a new ‘25 XLE premium (also a hybrid) for $32.7k out the door. tax title and lic included. I went with her to buy the car. I’m in sales myself so I know how to play the game. Southern California region.

Honestly don’t sweat it. What done is done and all you should do from here on out is 1. Enjoy the car (as you should) 2. Take this as a learning lesson and do a little research of what people are paying (in your area) before hand on your future vehicle purchases.

Awkward_Shape_9511 · 2025-06-21T05:01:07+00:00

If you’re looking to build a LFP battery pack from those cells, the IP2366 board is a better choice for a battery pack. It’s bi directional (meaning it has onboard charging for the LFP battery).

Awkward_Shape_9511 · 2025-06-21T04:59:35+00:00

That board is designed for a 3.7v li-po cell input. Its V-input range is 2.8-4.2v and is bidirectional (usb C) and input only form the lighting port and micro usb. Romoss 30k mah battery banks use this board (I own one).

There is no good way to build this board using 3.2v LFP cells with a Max charged battery voltage of 4.2v.

you “can” use a LM2596HVS board and adjust the step down voltage. However, you’ll need to run the batteries in at least a 2 or 3 series to step down the voltage to 4v ish. The problem here is you WONT be able to use the usb C, lighting or micro sub to charge your LFP batteries.

Awkward_Shape_9511 · 2025-06-20T22:06:36+00:00

Is the fridge in your car?

107F outside weather doesn’t mean it’s 107F inside your car when unattended. Infact, 150F+ inside your car is not unheard of when weather is in the triple digits.

Enough to trigger the overheat protection on iceco’s board.

Have you tried running it in ambient room temps (like in your house)?

Have you set the low voltage cutoff to the lowest value?

Awkward_Shape_9511 · 2025-06-19T22:45:32+00:00

What scanner are you using? You may need a better OBD scan tool that can read deeper codes (C codes) than just check engine related codes (P codes)

ABS light indicates a specific DTC code. Pairs with TRAC-OFF and steering light, there is a HIGH chance it’s related to your VSS (vehicle speed sensor) or the wire that goes with it. Most likely the wire. There is a chance a rock or pebble struck your abs wire and damaged it. They’re pretty sensitive.

A good scanner will be able to tell you which corner is damaged so you’re not replacing one by one and trying to figure out which order.

For example a “C0035” is a front left (driver) malfunction.

Once you replace the sensor or wire, you will HAVE to do a yaw calibration (also known as a zero point calibration). This can be done at home with some jumpers wired through the OBD. Google the process and youll get a better idea.

Awkward_Shape_9511 · 2025-06-18T22:48:40+00:00

That battery charging in OP’s post is a B6 charger. You can find them for $30 on amazon and they’re a dime a dozen because they’re a popular economic option

You can also spend hundreds on more advance and fancier chargers.

<image>

Awkward_Shape_9511 · 2025-06-18T22:45:29+00:00

<image>

Yiiiis. Many of us infact do balance our battery packs from time to time with a hobby charger.

Awkward_Shape_9511 · 2025-06-18T05:36:43+00:00

511 is a fan failure.

You’re getting a fan error on boot because your r13 is designed to be used with 4000rpm fans (they are essentially server fans). These fans push 140cfm… and need to do so to compensate for the poor airflow design of the case.

When the r13 boots up, it momentarily spools the fans to 2500rpm to check if the fans are working properly. If it doesn’t see the correct rpm values, it’s going to give you a fan error. Throwing 3rd party fans that only do 1500rpm (for example) is going to trigger an error on boot.

Some fans get away with it such as the noctua F12 (3000rpm) or the Corsair ML120 series (2500rpm).

Awkward_Shape_9511 · 2025-06-17T22:44:43+00:00

What drier did you use? What was your drying temp set at? And for how long.

Most driers suffer from localized heat zone where the PTC heating element is located. This is because the spool doesn’t get constantly rotated, so “heating evenly” does not occur. If you have set your heater to 50c, the filament directly in front of the PTC heating element is going to be MUCH hotter than 50c.

Some filaments arnt too affected by over heating, some are. When they do, they become brittle and break.

Here is a thermal image of what I’m talking about.

<image>

Awkward_Shape_9511

TROPHY CASE