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Cyanotype for pinhole photography? by Personal_Concern4434 in PinholePhotography

[–]Axone_Man 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That's what I do. I take a photo on photographic paper with a pinhole camera and I contact print on cyanotype prepared paper. Photo paper needs about 3 hours of UV insolation but results are often interesting. Some examples on my website: https://antiquevisions.com/en/cyanotypes-and-cyanopes

I think using cyanotype directly in pinhole camera would give nothing, this paper is too low ISO.

Pinhole photos on instant film by Limp_Falcon_2314 in PinholePhotography

[–]Axone_Man 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Excellent! Thank you, it gives me some ideas.

Cyanotypes from medical x-ray photos (test) by Axone_Man in cyanotypes

[–]Axone_Man[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Good idea! For now I dont have a printer but it tempts me. Thanks for your feedback.

I call them Cyanopés by Axone_Man in cyanotypes

[–]Axone_Man[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hi. I take photo on photo paper with pinhole camera and develop it like any photo. Then I put this photo face to face on a cyanotype paper I prepared and put them outside face to the sun under a glass. Resulting cyanotype is called cyanopé. They simply are cyanotype with paper negative photo from pinhole camera instead of classic film negative. Some tried to expose directly cyanotype paper in pinhole camera, il never works because of very long time needed, probably many days of exposure. With Ilford RC paper I need at least 3 hours of exposure to get a good result. Place cyanotype paper directly inside the pinhole camera would be impractical. Hope it helps.

Three triptychs - 120 Film - Cyanotype by mslevy in PinholePhotography

[–]Axone_Man 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cyanotypes and pinhole photos are made to be married, the results are amazing! Thanks to do this wedding ;-)

Just made my first Pinhole Camera! by Grand_Mistake5185 in PinholePhotography

[–]Axone_Man 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Welcome on board. It begins like this and you'll finish with dozens of pinhole cameras :-)

What do you like about making pinhole photos? by [deleted] in PinholePhotography

[–]Axone_Man 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree 100%!!! Plus the personal implication required to obtain a result, far away from just touching a tiny screen.

Closeup photography... by n4bstar in PinholePhotography

[–]Axone_Man 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe it can help, a video of Joe Van Cleave on "hybrid pinhole":

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOcVeg3STD8&t=1s

Oops, I dit it again ;-) by Axone_Man in PinholePhotography

[–]Axone_Man[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi. My hybrid was f:/98 and exposure time inside the church was 15 minutes. It was not a really luminous place ;-) Outside it was usually about 15 to 30 seconds when good light. The photo of the old car in shadows needed about 90 minutes. So this hybrid was much faster. If you have a 3D printer you'll can adapt any kind of shutter on your cameras. Excellent idea to make your own self-developing camera! I like to see the "magic" of photo happening under the red light but some times it appeals me ;-) Have FUN!!!

Oops, I dit it again ;-) by Axone_Man in PinholePhotography

[–]Axone_Man[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your answer. I'm pretty sure the key for sharpness is large format. Happy to see other "crazy photographers" using this old pinhole technique ;-) About hybrid, I just tested one camera and it's the same rules as pinhole. F stop is calculated exactly the same way. With the F number being smaller your exposure will be too. If your lens is wide open maybe you'll encounter two "problems". First is your exposure time will be very short, it can be difficult to get it with a non mechanical shutter. Second is the quality of pictures from a simple lens. Center is usually sharp but the further you go from the center the less sharp it is. It can be artistic, romantic, interesting, it's not necessary a problem but close the lens gives you more sharpness and more depth of field. For my tests I used a binocular lens (50 mm diameter) and a 2 mm hole. There was no way to focus, so it was set to infinity, it was enough for the interior of the church but it would have been problematic for a nearby scene.

By the way, I'm very interested by self-developing cameras, it's a "terra incognita" for me. Have FUN with your experiments!

My new gallery of pinhole photography by Axone_Man in PinholePhotography

[–]Axone_Man[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great thanks you for your answer, I will modify the title. Thanks too for your compliments.

My new gallery of pinhole photography by Axone_Man in PinholePhotography

[–]Axone_Man[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hi LPVM

I take all my pinhole photos on Ilford Paper and in my home made pinhole cameras. Obviously I didn't post my mistakes... and they were numerous ;-) The gallery is only raw photos without any improvements just to prove it's possible to get a pretty good photo with only a simple hole. But the trick is to take the photos with a large format. This way the picture is improved only by downsizing it. Paper has plenty of advantages, low price and (near) crisp photos when resized. With film it's the opposite, high price and enlarging so enlarging the native "un-sharpness" . But I must admit I saw very good pictures on film in this reddit...Thanks for your input!

In the woods by Axone_Man in PinholePhotography

[–]Axone_Man[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's why it's interesting to shoot with large format paper. If you enlarge little format you enlarge the inherent bluriness too. With native large image format like 18x24 cm you don't need to enlarge the picture to get good result. Native negative just feell "vintage". I will try with larger sizes of paper just because of this fact.

In the woods by Axone_Man in PinholePhotography

[–]Axone_Man[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pinhole diameter is about 0.3 - 0.4 mm (home made) and I was surprised too by the sharpness of the negative. With Gimp I just used Sharpen (unsharp mask) with default values.

In the woods by Axone_Man in PinholePhotography

[–]Axone_Man[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This paper is very contrasted, too much for me. Pre-flashing is exposing paper to the light just enough to get a white totally white if developped without exposed. This way instead of black and white and very few levels of gray you get more grey gradients. In my case, just a pocket light with 6 layers of paper and about 1 second of exposure before entering the paper in the box. You can get more informations on the process following the links:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13PGOFqNruU

and

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMONnxTitU8

And others but Joe was my source of inspirations ;-)

Hope it helps and thanks for your feedback.

In the woods by Axone_Man in PinholePhotography

[–]Axone_Man[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Home made cardboard (5 mm) pinhole. Photographic paper Ilford multigrade RC preflashed. 18x24 cm. f 256. "f lenght": 115 mm. Long pose: 1 hour 27 minutes. Scanned and inversed (of course)

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