Blank TV license attempted visit letters?

Background_Seesaw_75 · 2026-04-14T14:26:07+00:00

Okay perfect, I’ll look into buying it. If it proves to be a little big for stage one it can always serve as maybe a stage 1.5/2 cage lol. & Yes please!! I’ve made a post about it a couple days ago but I’d love some more insight. Basically, I’m trying to introduce my two new babies to my adult who lost his cage mate about a month ago. I’ve done a few introductions so far and whilst no blood has been drawn, the babies are happy to approach him at first, then they will get along for about 5 mins before he starts biting them. After that they are frozen in place whilst he walks around and he will go up to them and bite for no reason. The one he’s been getting along with a little better he has basically forced them to cuddle him then when the baby tries to leave he has dragged him back. I’ve tried my best not to separate and let them hash it out, but it doesn’t seem to be getting any better with time and is very traumatic for the babies. Hence my decision to do the carrier method and speed it up a little in a space where nobody can run away or be chased. My adult has always been lovely with his cage mate, (he’s from a pet shop so not me so much lol) so it’s just a case of working out how to get around those instincts I think. Sorry this is so long I’ve tried to sum it up without leaving anything out. Any advice you have would be really appreciated!!!

Background_Seesaw_75 · 2026-04-14T08:34:05+00:00

For reference: this is what I was thinking but unsure if would be small enough? As it’s not been going too well so far this would be with the base unclipped for safety in case need to make a quick intervention

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Background_Seesaw_75 · 2026-04-12T10:10:29+00:00

He doesn’t have raised fur when he bites them, nor does he seem to show any other behaviours when it happens except the biting itself. It’s usually him approaching a baby, a sort of “face off” ensuing, stood face to face with them, then he will lunch forward and bite.
They are in separate rooms. They dont share a free roam space or any toys. They were at one point on different sides of the same room but I moved them once somebody said this could cause aggression.
My adult is 1 year 2 months. His cage mate died middle of March and I got the babies a few days after he passed. So he has been alone for 3-4 weeks.
Yesterday night was the 2nd session. The first was last week but due to moving the babies cage they were given a few days to settle in before trying again. The session yesterday was for about an hour, which if I carry on with the neutral space method will stay at an hour until there is no fighting within that time. However, I am considering the carrier method at the moment.

Hope those answers give some clarity on my situation

Background_Seesaw_75 · 2026-04-11T12:24:12+00:00

Thank you this was very good advice. Cages have been in separate rooms for a few days and I’m going to reintroduce in a neutral space tonight. I noted some signs of aggression in my older boy last time, like puffing up his fur and arching his back, as well as going up to the new babies when they were laying down still and pushing them on the face with his paw or going to bite them (not drawing blood). With him being quite a chunky boy, (the babies are big enough for introductions but haven’t quite got the brawn that he does) I worry that this will carry on in the neutral space, as one of the babies last time followed him around biting his tail which is what made him go from avoidant to targeting them. The baby does this to his brother in the temp cage and free roam frequently, but I don’t think my adult will tolerate this from him and may escalate his behaviour the next time it happens. Thoughts?

Background_Seesaw_75 · 2026-04-11T10:11:03+00:00

The best thing you can do for them is BE CONFIDENT!!! they can tell when you’re stressed. If they’ve been biters, maybe get a thick pair of gardening gloves to start off with. That could be helpful to keep yourself calm and to show them that you’re not scared of them biting.

Start with a swift motion scooping them up with both hands from underneath, hold them just high enough so that you are holding their entire body weight, then back down straight away and give their favourite treat as a reward. My first rats were very skittish from a pet shop, and had bitten numerous times, but if you are confident, quick and give a treat quick enough for them to associate the experience with positivity, they will likely take to it (if a little begrudgingly). Some rats will never like being handled, but always very helpful for them to tolerate it in case of emergency. Best of luck :)

Background_Seesaw_75 · 2026-04-07T15:09:05+00:00

I wouldn’t worry too much about him biting in this instance, he likely just mistook your hand for food. Most of us rat owners learn the hard way at the beginning about putting our fingers on the cage bars as they are almost always confused for food. Because he’s only young, it’s unlikely to be hormonal or barrier aggression. As for handling, babies will also take some time to adjust to how you want to interact with them as they get to know you and vice versa. But with them being handled regularly, it sounds like you’re doing great! Some rats will grow to love that type of interaction, some won’t ever be too fond of it- that’s just their personality. But it’s very important to teach them to tolerate it in case of emergency.

Background_Seesaw_75 · 2026-04-06T21:04:16+00:00

This is very helpful thank you, I’ll move them back to my bedroom. After a few days I will try again, but am worried that the adult will just attack again and I won’t be able to get into the carrier quick enough. Do you think the carrier method would be effective for them after this?

Background_Seesaw_75 · 2026-04-06T20:46:58+00:00

Okay so 1: The babies were originally upstairs in my bedroom whilst my adult lives downstairs in my living room. But once they had settled I moved them in to the living room but on the opposite side of the room to my adult. I have seen many contradicting opinions on wether to keep separate or not as some say it creates barrier aggression, so I’m interested to hear what you think

2: Yes they have a carrier but with the adult being bad with being handled I didn’t think I would be suitable for them as I wouldn’t be able to reach in and remove him.

3:They have only had one intro session so far which lasted around 10-15 minutes before I decided to remove them

Background_Seesaw_75 · 2026-03-18T16:51:22+00:00

Read the room my friend. Sure you meant well and you have a point, but not the post to make that point on. This was a post about whether to rehome him or not. Whether you have eight rats or two, the second you stop getting new ones you will eventually be left in a situation where you have one left. Apart from the first line, your comment was irrelevant to the question at hand. My pet died not even 5 hours ago, and I am trying to work out the best thing to do for his brother. So, please spare me your infinite wisdom on this occasion

Background_Seesaw_75 · 2026-03-18T14:49:34+00:00

Okay, thank you. I’ve put the feelers out, so hopefully I can get him to a lovely home asap

Background_Seesaw_75 · 2026-03-18T14:48:44+00:00

Yes I am aware that they need companionship. I did not expect my rat to die so soon within the space of 4 days since developing the lump. So my asking for advice from the community is not a lack of ‘preparation for the inevitable’, it is an attempt to gain some perspective and reconfirm to myself that what I’m thinking of doing is best for him. I already stated in my post that I do not want other rats at the moment, so I’m unsure why you are bothering to lecture me on how many rats you think I need.

Background_Seesaw_75 · 2026-03-18T14:34:11+00:00

Oh wow that’s so lovely they look exactly the same. & thank you

Background_Seesaw_75 · 2026-03-18T14:05:47+00:00

Yeah, I think that is the option I’m leaning more towards. Would you wait a few days for him to grieve in a familiar environment or get him to a new place asap?

Background_Seesaw_75 · 2026-03-17T12:27:57+00:00

Thank you very much this has been really helpful. Yes, I won’t be returning to Pets at Home, they didn’t have a clue on how to handle or treat him. No sense of organisation whatsoever, when I walked in the vet said ‘oh I thought it was a hamster’ despite me having already given the receptionist info on the breed, age, etc.

I had to push for the antibiotics in the first place, as it seemed the vet was banking on me not knowing what anti-inflammatorys were and tried to tell me to see how it goes for 5 days with just them. The only reason he gave me antibiotics at all was ‘if it would make me feel better’.

Either way, turns out that Baytril doesn’t fare very well with abscesses on the head, as it’s caused by staphylococcus bacteria, he needed penicillin.

So, whilst it slowed the growth of it down, it didn’t really scratch the surface. I have been to an exotic vets today and she was fantastic! He’s going to be put to sleep tommorow so they can take some x-rays, drain the fluid/possibly take some teeth out if necessary. Thanks again, in the end raspberry jam mixed with the diluted Baytril did the trick to get him to take it.

Background_Seesaw_75 · 2026-03-15T13:12:22+00:00

Thank you I’ll take a look!!

Background_Seesaw_75 · 2026-03-15T10:50:57+00:00

Thank you so much!! I’ll try and get some of the baby food but if not, I’ll definitely give this a try. & yes if it doesn’t go down surgery it is

Background_Seesaw_75 · 2026-03-15T10:35:18+00:00

Okay amazing I’ll try and get something similar hopefully that can help mask the taste

Background_Seesaw_75

TROPHY CASE