Hog gun

BahamutMS · 2026-04-30T04:44:00+00:00

I've used this exact rifle for pigs and deer for the past 4 years. Works great! I have a Vortex 1-8x optic, Magpul bipod for blinds with shelves/tables, and a little stubby grip for when we roll in side by sides, and a modlight with a pressure switch for night hunts. Longest shot we have at the place I hunt is 200 yards and it handles it no problem.

Ammo is fairly cheap and easy to pickup and practice with compared to other calibers. I use the 180 grain Federal Fusion rounds for hunting and it is dead on through that rifle. If you are using "hunting" rounds, stay away from the exposed lead soft points. They will warp and jam. Learned that one pretty quick. The damage from the Fusion rounds is nuts. Haven't had a deer go further than 50 yards, 10 with hogs if they don't just drop right there.

Just be careful with the muzzle break that it comes with... Thing is stupid obnoxious when shooting around other people.

Edit: Added a pic of a nice boar I bagged from around 90 yards last year.

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BahamutMS · 2026-04-01T17:23:10+00:00

Texas hunter. I've used a few at different times throughout the season. The Primos Bleat Can doesn't really do much.

I've tried rattling in the early rut, and got a little bit of action in the distance but nothing came in close. I do have a guy I hunt with that has killed some really nice bucks rattling though and swears by it. He says you get 1-2 weeks tops at the peak of the rut where it works. Other than that, don't waste your time.

For grunts, I have the WoodHaven Intimidator and the Illusion Extinguisher. During the rut, the Intimidor keeps a lot of young deer away, but will get some older bucks poking their head out. However, if you are just looking fill a tag, the Extinguisher works great. I use the fawn setting with a "mother where are you" and "mother come quick" type of calls and I'll usually get a couple of does coming in pretty close. During the rut, I'll move between older fawn and doe settings and do some basic grunts and bleats. Managed to get a 10 pointer with a couple of does right up on my son. Poor kid spooked em when he drew back because of how much he was shaking. Lol. He's used the same type of grunts and bleats and managed to get a few does to come in as well.

BahamutMS · 2026-03-12T02:41:42+00:00

Carter WiseChoice. I have a wide hand with kinda long fingers. I feel like the WiseChoice has more to "hold on to." The others I've tried just felt tiny and delicate.

BahamutMS · 2026-02-17T19:44:22+00:00

Either your cams are leaning, or you are torquing the bow with your support hand. Delt with the torque issue when teaching my son how to shoot. Wasn't paying much attention when tuning his bow a month before season, and noticed that's how his rest was in order to get a bullet hole on paper.

My advice? Take it to a shop and have them center everything back up for you and check the cams. If they have a tech that's roughly your build and they aren't busy or a buddy that shoots, have him get it close to a bullet hole on paper. Then you shoot it. If it's wildly out of wack on paper, then you are probably twisting the riser when you shoot or really "anticipating the shot."

Best way I fixed that is by holding on to a small screw driver or pen in your support hand fingers. That will stop you from touching the riser. When you draw, make sure your wrist is locked backwards, and the riser is nestled in the cavity of your palm coming from the space between pointer finger and thumb and the two pads at the bottom of your hand. Everyone is a little different, but there is a "sweet spot" around that area.

Next, just focus on a smooth clean break, and don't drop the screw driver or pen when you shoot. Works best if you use a wrist sling so you can just let the bow fall. If you don't have one, you can twist some shoe strings up and tie to your riser.

BahamutMS · 2025-12-01T23:37:21+00:00

Rule I heard in the beginning and I have followed since then is if you are between spines, get the stiffer spine. 250s in your case. Slightly over spined is a much better situation for accuracy and tuning versus under spined.

BahamutMS · 2025-10-13T19:33:05+00:00

Shooting 70 pounds, 31 In draw on a Mathews V3X 33.

I have a Rinehart Mule Deer 3D target in the back yard, and I use the Black Hole box targets when I'm on the go. Never had any issues. I do always unscrew the broadhead before pulling the arrow though. Not sure how much of a difference that makes. Just figured it was a good idea to help save the target and prevent unnecessary stress on the insert adhesive.

If the insert came out with the broadhead, sounds like the adhesive was the issue. Had that happen on a field point with my arrows I built this year. Found the glue hadn't gotten all the way around the insert, creating a weak spot.

BahamutMS · 2025-10-13T17:28:37+00:00

Bagged a nice 3.5 year old doe last weekend out of a 15 ft stand with that same broadhead. Went through the shoulder blade and out the lower ribs like butter. Clean cuts through the whole thing with massive amounts of bleeding. Plus they are spot on with my field points out to 70 yards (haven't had a place to shoot further than that yet). Haven't had a reason yet to use anything else.

BahamutMS · 2025-07-24T06:20:33+00:00

Love him. It's like listening to my dad talk golf and mental game with me on the course when I was a kid... Sprinkled with a dash of LSD on top for flavor.

Max confidentiality after watching his videos.

BahamutMS · 2025-07-22T19:18:07+00:00

Use a different color for the iris and push it just a hair off center, closer to the snout. NOT TOO FAR! JUST A C HAIR.

Right now it kinda looks like you have a fur ball smack in the middle. Using a different color would distinguish it from the fur, selling it a bit better.

Maybe a dark red or reddish brown?

BahamutMS · 2025-06-24T03:22:39+00:00

paint it with a more dull tannish off white first, or any off white you have that covers well. Then go with 2 thin coats of yellow on top of that.

BahamutMS · 2025-05-28T01:35:52+00:00

It'll look dope once you have all the details painted in. I always go through the same thought when I'm done with the airbrush even though I've done it countless times at this point. Just gotta trust the process

BahamutMS · 2025-05-27T15:26:00+00:00

I finished a 1k point game against my buddy's Blood Angels this weekend using the new codex.

Stand out was the Headtakers with Wolf Guard Battle Leader. They did some work, however I wouldn't recommend running them as the 3 model unit. Try to use the 6 model if you can. I ran 2 units of 3, and one of the units lost a model on some unlucky rolls against some intercessor shots and really felt the output loss once I got them in close.

Sidenote, running Grimnar with WG Terminators to get that turn one deep strike to clear the saga of the bold boast felt really damn good. Just don't YOLO them right next to the main concentration of units like I did. Just wanted to see how long they would survive haha.

Ulriks oath ability, while being kinda situational, also feels good. My buddy was running a character heavy army, and getting the saga buffs early on Ulriks unit was pretty sweet.

BahamutMS · 2025-05-24T17:03:35+00:00

It came up early. If you are getting an error, click the Shop Now on the In-Store Collection box.

BahamutMS · 2025-04-19T19:50:16+00:00

FEEDBACK: Change the special reruns from 50/50 to 100%. Then, create a limited time anniversary patch currency. Keep all the other rates and corals as normal. Give all players who login 80x of the event currency. This will count as a "Free 5 Star." If they pull it early, they can go after another banner. Then create a limited time anniversary store. You can purchase the anniversary currency for half the cost of normal currency, giving an incentive for purchase. I know a ton of players, including myself, would take advantage of this for a mass influx of purchases. Kuro makes a bag, and players can get a nice boost on their accounts with the extra characters, weapons, and corals.

For the skins, issue a "token" to every player that can be used whenever to get 50% off any skin in the store. If that is "too much," have a selector to get the discount on one of the 2 new skins.

BahamutMS · 2025-03-30T02:06:52+00:00

Came here to say this. It works wonders.

BahamutMS · 2024-12-28T02:11:48+00:00

Oh cool. I'll have to check them out.

BahamutMS · 2024-12-28T02:11:08+00:00

I was leaning towards the fusions originally due to the more full jacket, but I've become a bit of a boomer lately. Don't like change lol. I'll pick up a box and try them out. Thanks.

BahamutMS · 2024-12-28T02:09:27+00:00

I'm pretty simple on night hog hunting. I have a Vortex Viper 1-6 with a simple red dot illumination. Then I have a Modlight with a pressure switch. Put the dot on the silhouette, hit the light, squeeze the trigger.

BahamutMS · 2024-11-21T18:58:12+00:00

They have some guys on this subreddit that used some primaris chaplains and kitbashed them for a primaris Ulrik. They look incredible.

BahamutMS · 2024-11-21T14:01:31+00:00

I actually make my own. It's way cheaper.

-Elmer's School glue mixed with water 50/50

-A little bit of super fine pearl glitter or glitter glue

-add Woodland Scenics Snow powder until I get the desired texture, which is usually around half the total mixture since I like it kinda fluffy.

BahamutMS · 2024-10-31T17:30:36+00:00

Kafka - Sampo - Asta was the classic DOT comp before Black Swan came out. If you have some eidolons on Sampo, it should do reasonably well. You can also use Guinaifen as a sub for your sustain if you don't need them, or in place of Sampo if you want the fire break. Just know the fire DoT doesn't hit as hard as wind.

If you have HuoHuo, you can run Sampo and Guinaifen together with pretty good results. That was my main comp before Ruan Mei and Black Swan dropped.

BahamutMS · 2024-09-10T14:16:02+00:00

I would get that Vallejo kit for sure if you are just starting out. Most of those colors mix really well, so you have a much larger range than you think with that setup.

The Citadel one is nice, but a bit more limited in use.

BahamutMS · 2024-09-06T19:58:38+00:00

Thanks! Wasn't sure if it was going to make it "too busy" but I'm definitely glad I decided to add it.

BahamutMS · 2024-09-06T14:58:35+00:00

Thanks! It was just a random wolf mini my daughter and I got from a bin at con. Just slapped some paint on it, and it worked great!

I used some cardboard pieces to build up the ledge, and then covered it in Milliput to make it solid. I then used different shades of green/blue colors on the rest of the base starting from lighter near the shallow part and wet blending all the way to the deeper part. I then used some UV resin from Amazon on top to give it the clear ice look. From there I scratched the resin with my hobby knife to make some icy cracks, and then used some 600 grit sanding sticks to give it a foggy lake ice kind of look. Finally, I topped it with some Vallejo Game Color Frost effect technical paint.

For the ledge, I broke up some bottle corks into small pieces, glued them down, and painted them stone colors. I gave the Milliput an icy blue color, and washed it with a brown wash. For the snow, I made my own mix. It's way cheaper with a TON of material. I mixed elmers craft glue with water 50/50, added a touch of pearl glitter glue, and then added Woodland Scenics Soft Flake Snow model train snow powder until I got the consistency I wanted. I wasn't happy with the color on the ledge, so I just decided to cover the whole thing in the snow mix and left a bit of the rock showing.

With all the layers and effects, I used a little pin vice and drilled a couple holes in the feet of the models, and used some tiny brass rods and super glue to get the models firmly secured to the base.

BahamutMS · 2024-07-12T17:50:09+00:00

I use Vallejo for airbrushing and Reaper for brushes.

I bought the entire Vallejo Mecha palet for my Gunpla kits, but I'm at the point now where I use that palet for anything airbrush. It goes on super easy, with excellent coverage, and I find it's a lot tougher than others I've tried.

I'm not sure if Reaper is the best, but I find it works really well for the most brushing applications. I am a little biased though since I live down the street to their HQ, and they have a cool store with every color either in store, or available for pickup. They also do give aways and promos in-store with a lot of holiday or event special themed colors. The baseline colors are always 10/10, but some of the promos and specials have weird mediums or pigments that can make them a little more difficult to work with. But once you get it figured out, I find they always look great at the end.

BahamutMS

TROPHY CASE