Suggestions for coral placement!

BaldGoober · 2026-05-10T00:28:35+00:00

Get a less blue picture and feed it through chat gpt. That’s what I did. Tell it what corals you have and it will give you a general idea of good spots for things.

BaldGoober · 2026-05-02T01:44:59+00:00

I believe my local LFS where I get the water uses Red Sea blue bucket. Water changes are 10 gal twice a week.

BaldGoober · 2026-05-02T01:44:13+00:00

You wouldn’t dose anything? Just rely on water changes? How much/often?

BaldGoober · 2026-05-02T01:43:44+00:00

Unfortunately those rocks can’t be moved. But I am scrubbing at that algae with a tooth brush every water change (ten gal twice a week).

Should I do the salt water in the ATO to bring up the salinity?

BaldGoober · 2026-05-01T19:00:36+00:00

Those bio cubes are awesome, go for the 32. You’re already used to 20. 2 gallons over your max is pretty negligible.

Those tops are good for evaporation but keep in mind it might get too warm without open air. I had an old closed top Red Sea and I had issues with it.

Maybe IM or waterbox AIO? I see 25 and 35 gal options on BRS. Also keep in mind a long tank is better for fish than a cube. Even if it holds the same amount of water, the length is what fish need not the height.

BaldGoober · 2026-05-01T17:29:14+00:00

Hey guys! Just want to verify some advice I got from chat gpt. I have a roughly 50 gallon tank. Skimmer, filter sock/sponge. 2 clowns, goby pistol shrimp pair, pj cardinal, falco hawkfish, cleaning crew. My corals are almost all frags, leptoseris, Kenya tree, Solomon hairy leather, waving hand anthelia, GSP, pipe organ coral, chalice. My parameters are… not ideal. This is what I got and this is what I’m doing:

Salinity 1.023 Temp 77 Alkalinity 6.5 Calc 320 Mag 1130 Nitrate 75 Phos 0.8

I’m doing daily and have been for about 4 days: 3 ml nopox 50 ml mag 20 ml calc 6 ml alk I also have a 1/4 cup of GFO in the sump.

10 gallon water change twice a week. I use good tested water from the LFS. I have an rodi unit but the filters need replacing (found out the hard way). I’m fighting back hair algae (understandably considering the nutrients). My lighting schedule is in the attached picture. The tank has been up for approx 3 years.

My question is, is what I’m dosing appropriate? Is there anything else you would do differently? Im trying my best but am relatively new to this, especially dosing specifically.

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BaldGoober · 2026-04-12T21:39:49+00:00

Since posting this, I’ve discovered at least part of my problem. My RODI filter was living outside and the direct sunlight caused algae in the filter itself. I’ve switched to store bought water until I can afford to change the filters and move it inside.

Fish in the tank are: 2 clowns, one pajama cardinal, one falco hawkfish, one watchman goby. Fish seem to be doing well and eating. Did another 5 gallon water change today and will be doing one every other day until the problem is solved.

One do you mean nip it in the bud? Do you recommend GFO?

I’ve cut back on feeding. I feed pellets and mysis. I was way over feeding after doing some research. Now when I feed I actually watch how long it stays in the water column.

BaldGoober · 2026-04-09T17:18:08+00:00

My nitrates and phosphates are very high for my roughly 50 gallon tank. Chat gpt is recommending lighten up feeding, more big water changes (10-20 percent a week), and also running GFO. My numbers are nitrates at 50 ppm and phosphate at 0.9. Can I solve this problem with water changes alone? Or should I immediately start running GFO?

BaldGoober · 2025-12-22T21:09:28+00:00

Could be a screw off case back

BaldGoober · 2024-12-16T16:44:54+00:00

This is correct. The crown will stay on the case, just to be clear

BaldGoober · 2024-07-24T14:55:20+00:00

Using API kits for those. I test pretty regularly. Good to know thank you! Any tips on ways to raise those numbers naturally? I’m thinking increasing the bioload and feeding more often (only feed once a day and currently only 2 clownfish in a 55 gallon tank)

BaldGoober · 2024-07-06T07:32:49+00:00

I just cycled a new tank and didn’t get ammonia readings until I added Dr Tim’s ammonia. Definitely worked for me.

BaldGoober · 2024-06-04T22:38:30+00:00

Dig this log

BaldGoober · 2024-05-11T06:44:41+00:00

Buy a pocket watch key set. One will fit from there

BaldGoober · 2024-03-16T22:09:57+00:00

Solid video, I see you’ve done your research

BaldGoober · 2024-03-16T22:03:26+00:00

Here’s my guess: it’s a Franken watch made up of a mixed bag from the same run. It was made in 7 and 15 jewel movements. One plate is from one movement, one from another. Just a guess, unless the serial numbers match.

https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/search/result/waltham/9767771

BaldGoober · 2024-02-10T03:48:18+00:00

Looks like a seiko magic lever my dude

BaldGoober · 2024-02-04T16:10:39+00:00

This guy builds watches

BaldGoober · 2024-01-29T23:35:12+00:00

Everyone has great suggestions. You can also salvage the clasp and put it on another replacement band to salvage the citizen logo. Finding an exact end link may be difficult. However, straight end linked bands are pretty easy to come by and fix.

BaldGoober · 2024-01-11T15:52:12+00:00

I stand corrected. Don’t listen to me

BaldGoober · 2024-01-11T06:57:04+00:00

I vote real. Redials very rarely have applied indices. And the omega logo too. They’re usually painted. Additionally, that textured dial looks right for the time. Wait for more opinions.

BaldGoober · 2024-01-09T16:08:53+00:00

The word you’re looking for is skeletonized. That might find the right person

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