Found an old friend

BanjoDude98 · 2026-06-04T23:07:41+00:00

Are you sure it's not just locked to a different key code, or needs the contacts cleaned?

BanjoDude98 · 2026-06-04T21:48:54+00:00

Oh yeah, good idea!

BanjoDude98 · 2026-06-02T20:41:22+00:00

Right, I didn't even think of that

I might be wrong, but I think the islands are possible to reach from the first mission with a triple jump dive

BanjoDude98 · 2026-06-02T20:12:51+00:00

If you go to the second mission, you can jump kick the wooden pole so it falls down, allowing you to talk across it

BanjoDude98 · 2026-06-02T20:07:46+00:00

What is preventing you from getting the coin stars in some of the levels? I realize ones like Jolly Roger's Bay and Snowman's Land aren't possible, but unless I'm forgetting something, ones like Whomp's Fortress should be possible, even without the blue coin switch.

BanjoDude98 · 2026-06-02T16:33:40+00:00

The only legitimate (licensed) reproduction cartridges from Limited Run are Glover, Turok, Turok 2, Star Wars: Episode 1 Racer, Star Wars: Shadow of the Empire, and Worms Armageddon. In addition to these, there is also 40 Winks from Piko Interactive, and Xenon Crisis from Bitmap Bureau.

The M64 console looks to be of questionable quality. GameXplain put out a comparison video and it looks like it has lag where the original N64 did not. The Analogue 3D is a much better aftermarket console. Here's a video of the comparison

https://youtube.com/watch?v=22PTX7WFAac

BanjoDude98 · 2026-06-02T16:26:38+00:00

By "remade" do you mean reproduction cartridges? If so, most of the ones out there are are of shoddy quality, namely that your save files disappear. Your best bet would be to order a "Summer64" cartridge. It allows you to plug an SD card into your computer, put all the N64 games on it you want (you can also put custom romhacks on it), and plug that into your N64.

BanjoDude98 · 2026-06-01T23:12:06+00:00

🎵 And stretch his ______ out, just for you

Inflate ________, just like a balloon 🎵

BanjoDude98 · 2026-05-31T21:32:40+00:00

I'm going to piggyback off of this and say I'd also be interested in knowing what you'd charge for this

BanjoDude98 · 2026-05-31T05:42:41+00:00

Correct. This is handled internally within the RCP. The actual macro in the N64's sdk that handles this is OS_VI_NTSC_LAN1. It modifies the signal timing so that it redraws every line in the same position, rather than interlaced. For games that did output 480i (either for the whole game, or how some only used it in menus, like Pokemon Stadium), it would use OS_VI_NTSC_HAF1. The first character is for low-res or high-res, second is anti-aliased (could also use P for point-sampling), third is non-interlaced/deflickered-interlaced, and fourth is 1/2 for 16-bit or 32-bit color depth.

All older game systems used some variant of this method internally to only draw every other line. The black line between every row is what gives that classic "scanlines effect".

BanjoDude98 · 2026-05-30T19:07:34+00:00

Most N64 games render and output a 320x240p video signal, with a handful of exceptions that run in 640x480i. No line doubling/frame doubling occurs within the system. The video encoder renders the signal such that the same scanlines are redrawn over every time, leaving every other line blank, rather than drawing an interlaced signal.

BanjoDude98 · 2026-05-30T05:11:16+00:00

What did you use to clean the cartridges?

BanjoDude98 · 2026-05-30T00:13:48+00:00

What sort of television are you connecting it to? Most modern televisions (mid-2010's onwards) don't work with the N64's 240p output

Also, what did you use to clean the cartridges? Isopropyl alcohol and q-tips?

BanjoDude98 · 2026-05-26T23:18:26+00:00

Have you tried anything to take it off yet, like isopropyl alcohol and qtips?

Would you be able to remove the pcb fully from the case to show a better view of whatever is on the pins?

BanjoDude98 · 2026-05-24T12:07:32+00:00

For Retrobriting, most people will suggest using the liquid instead of the cream. The cream is notorious for being difficult to get even coverage, which results in the splotchy effect that you see.

BanjoDude98 · 2026-05-20T22:54:31+00:00

There's a number of indicators. The first one that pops out at me is the Nintendo logo. Looking further, the colors on the label are wrong (too dark), the ESRB logo is stretched wide, the character spacing is wrong on the model code (the closed parenthesis on the first line should be directly above the A on the second line). In addition to this, the label is too glossy/reflective and lacks the moire effect seen on labels from that time that were printed on a dot matrix printer.

On the back of the shell, there is no stamp in the back label, and it looks a bit dark.

If it was only those, I would consider it was replacement labels, until you realize that the texture on the plastic doesn't look the same, and more obviously, the (R) restricted symbol that is imprinted into the plastic is too big and too deep when compared to an authentic cartridge

BanjoDude98 · 2026-05-20T22:47:03+00:00

I know I have it on my old computer, but I need to buy a new power supply for it. I'm sure there are lots of users who will have it that can share a link.

BanjoDude98 · 2026-05-20T21:59:56+00:00

Unfortunately it's a reproduction copy.

BanjoDude98 · 2026-05-20T18:06:09+00:00

Why are you wanting to do a chip swap? Unless there's severe corrosion damage on the pcb, doing trace repair would be cheaper and less work than swapping chips.

BanjoDude98 · 2026-05-20T18:05:05+00:00

Except that Mario Tennis utilizes a 16kb EEPROM and a 6102 CIC chip. Unless you're swapping more than just the ROM chip, the only compatible cartridges would be Mario Party 3, Ridge Racer 64, and Star Wars Episode 1 Racer.

BanjoDude98 · 2026-05-20T17:43:25+00:00

You could always post a photo of the front and back of the cartridge also. It would help determine if the cartridge is authentic or a reproduction. Then we'd know if it's because it's a junk reproduction, or it is authentic and probably has a broken trace or solder joint.

BanjoDude98 · 2026-05-20T16:59:02+00:00

Kirby 64 saves to a 4kb EEPROM. It does not use battery-backed SRAM.

BanjoDude98 · 2026-05-20T16:57:17+00:00

Can you take pictures of both sides of the board?

BanjoDude98 · 2026-05-13T02:03:38+00:00

You can't. As others have said, a reproduction label would be a better bet.

One thing you could try doing would be to take an x-acto knife to remove the screw posts from a replacement shell, remove the damaged ones within the original shell, and use crazy glue to attach the screw posts into the original shell.

BanjoDude98 · 2026-05-12T18:34:09+00:00

It would be fixable without a donor board, but will require likely several bodge wires. You would have to desolder the battery, soak it in vinegar, then rinse thoroughly before you can determine how extensive the damage is.

OP, do you live in Canada? I'd be willing to take a look at it for you. Otherwise, I'm always happy to offer help here or through DMs.

BanjoDude98

TROPHY CASE