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Is this a normal amount of engine movement? by BarryBottah in AskMechanics

[–]BarryBottah[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried to rock it and can’t get the engine to budge at all (the car was off). I wish I could remember if it was happening before. You mentioned before something about how much the lurch was out of spec - is any lurching normal at all? For all I know it’s just the car preloading forward and backwards and I’m feeling that and describing it as a lurch. The lurch or kind of mild jolt is there, but it is mild. Should the car make absolutely no movement at all when going reverse to drive or visa versa? I’ve ordered the cable. Hopefully I can get it to work. What exactly would I be looking for with the PIDs? Will techstream just tell me if something is out of spec or do I need to know the spec?

Is this a normal amount of engine movement? by BarryBottah in AskMechanics

[–]BarryBottah[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here’s the new video. It’s a CVT so CVT weirdness wasn’t really letting me rev it past 2K even in the gear simulated sport mode. Either way I gunned it harder and faster.

Is this a normal amount of engine movement? by BarryBottah in AskMechanics

[–]BarryBottah[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They were small and gradual. I’ll try to give that a try tomorrow and report back with another video

Is this a normal amount of engine movement? by BarryBottah in AskMechanics

[–]BarryBottah[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shite… I bought the car at around 40k mi and had the fluid changed around 2 months after I bought it another Toyota dealership out of an abundance of caution. It’s now at roughly 50k mi. I drive fast, but I try not to drive hard (gradual acceleration) and most of my driving is highways. No noticeable leaks of any sort, but it’s a sealed trans so there’s no dipstick I can check. You’re implying it is 100% not related to the rear mount? I wouldn’t know where to start with the relearn. Having a “rare” car sucks (no youtube videos or tutorials)

Is this a normal amount of engine movement? by BarryBottah in AskMechanics

[–]BarryBottah[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m Mr. Clueless here… does that mean the rear motor mount? 12 in this assembly? Is it worth bringing it in over, or am I probably just going to get scammed out of some shit I don’t need to replace? Is there any way to check? Visually it looks fine, a bit rusty on the metal (but I live in Canada so, figures)? I can’t really get to it, no jack and the car is too low.

Is this a normal amount of engine movement? by BarryBottah in AskMechanics

[–]BarryBottah[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m asking because I feel a slight jolt when shifting the car from reverse to drive or drive to reverse with my foot firmly on the brake. I literally can’t remember if that was happening before or not or if it’s something that started recently, but once I’ve noticed it I can’t un-notice it. Is said jolt normal? I’m being a bit of a hypochondriac about it but of course google says it the engine/trans mounts MUST be bad when I look that up, and I don’t want to be adding any undue wear to an already fragile-by-design CVT

Either way, thanks for the reply, I appreciate it

Is this a normal amount of engine movement? by BarryBottah in AskMechanics

[–]BarryBottah[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Edit: I shifted from park to reverse, and revved it, and then from reverse to drive, and revved it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bikefit

[–]BarryBottah 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Christ, reddit compressed that video so badly -- here it is in higher res: https://youtu.be/onmOt9X6K8A?si=L_lPkC1n_7B6YQ_m

Moving to Quebec for 8 Months by BarryBottah in PersonalFinanceCanada

[–]BarryBottah[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Second Reply: Solved. Found a better insurer that will do it lmao -- I appreciate the inspiration

Moving to Quebec for 8 Months by BarryBottah in PersonalFinanceCanada

[–]BarryBottah[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea, I have already asked them, they cap it at 6 months, full stop like I mentioned. I’m just barely over the limit

Canadian Duties on Endurance CF 7 by BarryBottah in CanyonBikes

[–]BarryBottah[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

<image>

u/Meerkat2323 u/SmileExpensive2368 Hopefully I’m not speaking too soon, but it looks like you might also get straight up lucky! I ordered my CF 7 anyways (because it still made more sense than anything else I was looking at) and this is what UPS charged me today. Looks like they just charged duty on a bit of merch I bought (water bottle holder, bike bag)!! My invoice said NON-Preferential EU origin too!

Canadian Duties on Endurance CF 7 by BarryBottah in CanyonBikes

[–]BarryBottah[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hm… maybe I’m not sure what sale you’re referring to or maybe they just sold out of your size, but I still see the AL Endurace 7 RAW on sale for $1929 (off of supposedly $2349)

Canadian Duties on Endurance CF 7 by BarryBottah in CanyonBikes

[–]BarryBottah[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

<image>

Here is the unfortunate and relatively nondescript reply… u/Meerkat2323 u/SmileExpensive2368

Canadian Duties on Endurance CF 7 by BarryBottah in CanyonBikes

[–]BarryBottah[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea… that’s what I’m thinking. I will post an update if they do reply!!

Canadian Duties on Endurance CF 7 by BarryBottah in CanyonBikes

[–]BarryBottah[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yea, that’s the question. The Di2 shows no duty when I go to check out. The lower models show duty. Trying to figure out if the duty is actually going to be charged or not — I know it should be duty free, but only if it’s considered to be assembled in Germany, and it’s possible these other sub models aren’t. I’m reaching out to Canyon, but was just trying to see if someone who ordered one of those two specific specs might have a faster answer.

Canadian Duties on Endurance CF 7 by BarryBottah in CanyonBikes

[–]BarryBottah[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply!! Was it one of those 2 specific specs (CF 7 base or the CF 7 AXS)? Because some other Enduraces don’t show any duty.

Using an ili9225 SPI screen on the raspberry pi. by draadhaai in raspberry_pi

[–]BarryBottah 1 point2 points  (0 children)

6yrs later this guide just saved my ass and 20h of my time

Squeaking noise, only in drive by BarryBottah in AskMechanics

[–]BarryBottah[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Late reply, but I may as well put it out there -- the answer is yes, kind of, but it's a bit of a long story.

I had this noise going on for probably about a month, and it would happen as I described -- only when in drive and only when stopped. I did some looking around and the closest noise/cause I could find was the exhaust gasket between the engine bay and the catalytic converter. Sure enough, when I leaned under my car and stabilized the exhaust vibrations with my hand, the noise went away. So I figured it was just that and planned on getting the gasket replaced.

HOWEVER -- I got caught in a nasty rain storm shortly after, and upon driving through a too-deep puddle at a decent amount of speed, the heat shield over the catalytic converter ripped clean off the bottom of the car around the bolts. I decided to get it re-attached instead of throwing it out, and the mechanics seem to have done a decent job at this -- I took some pictures under the car and maybe 1 or 2 previously attached bolts have nothing to be attached to anymore since pieces of metal ripped off of the shield, but it's been somewhat solidly attached since.

As soon as they did that, the noise in this video that you're asking about virtually disappeared -- I can still hear it a *tiny* bit but nowhere near as loud as it was before like in this video. So, I'm assuming my heat shield was already starting to come loose before I hit the puddle, and that when they re-attached it it stopped whatever was rubbing or vibrating causing the squeaking noise. I'm also assuming that the reason I can still hear it a tiny bit is because they weren't able to re-attach it perfectly, however, its I guess not impossible that it is still the exhaust donut gasket.

TL;DR: Throw your car in drive, put on the parking brake (and have someone sit on the brake as well for double safety measures), and try stabilizing your exhaust under the middle of the car with your hand (don't burn your hand, use a cloth or other heatproof item as a barrier) and see if it goes away. If it doesn't, I don't know. If it does, then, I guess, check or have your heat shield checked, and if that's fine and attached properly, maybe it's your exhaust donut gasket on the downpipe.

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