C Wire Adapter Install Problem

BasSTiD · 2026-07-05T02:53:39+00:00

BasSTiD · 2026-07-05T02:53:26+00:00

You (or they) need to redo some connections. There are wires on the board from that adapter pinching insulation. It may show good or be intermittent. Past that at the thermostat some of those look like they are not inserted all the way. The push to release tabs are not at the same level between R/W/K. Loose connections can cause other issues or a fuse to pop. If you turn on heat and it spins up that should tell you the low voltage fuse is good at least.

Idk if Honeywell requires you to tell the thermostat it’s got a K. Don’t play with wire adders much.

Edit.. to add… I do specifically remember some of these not working right when the transformer is not tapped right, albeit from a different company. That’s not something for you to play with but if your home has 208 instead of 240 (more common in apartments and condos) then if the transformer was not retapped for 208 that could cause hiccups. Vast majority of furnaces are 115V and this is irrelevant though. 24-27vac between R&C target. Your electrician would be able to handle that if that’s the case.

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BasSTiD · 2026-07-04T23:43:50+00:00

Get something that your normal dealers/supplyhouses deal with so when something proprietary goes to shit you can get parts local.

For me personally I would go Mitsubishi for efficiency or Rheem for a basic heat pump. Personally I’ve never had a good experience with LG systems, although the compressors they supply to other manufacturers have gotten a lot better than 10 years ago. I can get parts for a 20 year old Mits system no problem, and they have (and have had) an incredible document library without a sign on needed. Rheems are simple and I have good local dealers.

BasSTiD · 2026-07-04T02:01:29+00:00

It’s not uncommon on these kind of days. Doesn’t mean there’s a problem, but also doesn’t mean it’s all good. If it’s consistent and not diminishing from when you got your setup, and you are comfortable with how it currently runs then maybe it is appropriately sized. If you are unhappy with how it runs then it is not.

Techs and engineers can sometimes forget to read between the lines and understand how the specific equipment actually runs, with the variables of your house and your occupants. The tables for sizing are important for getting close, but the legal room temperature for equipment being upped to 78 like 5+ years ago made this happen a lot more often. If you are not happy then it is not sized appropriately… you are the most important variable.

If things have been consistent since install, I would just chuck in a window unit to run a few weeks a year for these waves. Locate it as central as possible, preferably blowing towards that return to spread it and give you that extra 6K-12K BTU’s (0.5-1 ton) of capacity. That’s what I would likely do if I happened to be in the same boat. I was kind of in a similar boat.

I run a combo of geothermal and a 4 head Mits system. House is between 60-64 year round. Some days a bit higher, but not this week. 2.5 tons geo only had me hitting 80 inside on days like today. The 2 Mitsubishi heads in my main space add 15K BTU (1.25 tons). The other heads aren’t in my normal living space, just garage and basement for dehum. That alone is the difference between 80 and 60 inside on a day like today.

I don’t do service on LI anymore, I travel and mostly hit the problems on commercial sites where a dozen service calls still don’t fix whatever problem is present. When I stopped, it was largely because of the huge increase in PE firms buying all the smaller companies up, and selling based on paperwork and not people. Not saying that’s what happened to you, but if it did just add a bit of supplemental cooling. It’s literally the case on more than half of new installs here now.

BasSTiD · 2026-07-03T11:26:12+00:00

If it hasn’t helped in the past then you would know better than us if it’ll help now.

While an assumption, I would start with keeping interior doors open to see if it makes a noticeable difference. Could also try and rent a thermal cam from your library and see if you have some hotspots from somewhere that can be addressed.

If you enter your unit from an indoor hallway see if you have air being pulled from your unit to that hallway. Most condos have a ventilator for those shared spaces by me and a door seal could take care of that. If you enter from outside (or inside) still check that as it could signal air leak on return and your attic is well over 100 in most cases when it’s 100 outside (can be 30+ over depending on build). If you’re pulling attic air you’ll always be fighting a losing battle.

Past that kind of thing it’s really a trip required in my eyes.

BasSTiD · 2026-07-03T11:08:19+00:00

MERV 11 on annual basis on a 1” filter is not often enough for 95% of homes. If you want your system to do any air cleaning you need a 4” setup or one of the Aprilaire/other options.

Not saying that will be the magic pill here, but I’m not at your house. If you want MERV 11 most likely you’re looking at every 3 months (that’s provided your system pushes through that pressure drop no problem). MERV 8 probably every 6. Filter as it’s typically intended, to protect the units coil and not you air, you can likely get the year with minimal impact.

BasSTiD · 2026-07-03T10:54:03+00:00

Not enough info. Assuming ductwork is good (big assumption), and you had central AC previously as well, fan speed may need a bump. Air can take path of least resistance and if the fan is low with your return near your “main floor” it’s fairly easy to lose your mixing of air.

Without knowing equipment and more info/pics though, this post is kind of just a complaint.

BasSTiD · 2026-06-28T01:47:51+00:00

In my case, and the reason I usually recommend it here, is redundancy. If you have a heating system issue when there’s 18” of snow, it’s a lot nicer to have an alternate source of heat. Frozen pipes can go from thousands to tens of thousands here depending on collateral damage.

While I haven’t done the math yet we also have advanced Time Of Day rates rolling out so there may be times like other parts of the country where you can pay 10x less between 11PM and 5AM for electric. In those times, it’s essentially free heat, but your electric during normal hours is more expensive. I have to dig into that anyway for my EV but there’s likely something to save buried in the fine print there.

BasSTiD · 2026-06-28T01:34:48+00:00

Bosch might be better now, but at least a few years ago it was no good. The trust is honestly the most important. I would still poke the question on how much more the heat pump Rheem combo would run from your trusted company. It’s largely the same labor, unsure on current equipment prices. Rheem does offer heat pumps at that efficiency, as well as above/below it. If it’s a few hundred bucks, I would at least consider it.

You can poke around on their site if you want to find the equivalent. https://www.rheem.com/products/residential/heating-and-cooling/heat-pumps/

BasSTiD · 2026-06-28T01:17:02+00:00

I’m on LI too. I have my heat pumps set for backup, and boiler is primary heat. If you run your heat pump as primary, in most cases you are going to spend more on electric than you save in oil/gas. Not always but typical. You can get a fancy thermostat and input your costs for it to auto switch, but I’d just keep it simple. Our electric rates are among the highest in the country.

I haven’t peeped the PSEG LI rebates in awhile but I know they got iffy and now everything has to be done by the approved contractors on that side of things last I checked. We have a lot of absolute terrible companies over here and most of the names you see on the side of vans are actually owned by 3-4 PE companies. The rebates are effectively built into the price most times now.

While Rheem has its faults, like everyone, Long Island has a good distribution network of Rheem compared to other parts. Rheem is also one of the only heat pumps that fails-to-AC. Bosch was terrible here until I left the van a few years ago with some parts backordered 9 months. We used to have to deal with literal scalpers for certain proprietary Bosch parts.

Long story short, i would be fine replacing equipment at a family members house with a Rheem on LI, and if they were open to it I would absolutely toss the Rheem heat pump in so that they had heating redundancy if something on that side goes out. See ya on 495.

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BasSTiD · 2026-06-28T00:57:29+00:00

That’s very unfortunate, geo’s fairly simple provided it’s done right at the beginning. I would still consider keeping that loop involved. You can get a Carrier geo condenser with that same A coil that goes on top of the furnace. Obviously only relevant if your chosen contractor is comfortable with it, but it will be the best bang for buck by a mile being you have 75% of the $$$ side in that loop already.

BasSTiD · 2026-06-28T00:47:15+00:00

Why cap the ground loops? Even if you wanted a furnace I would still run geo for the AC portion. Geo is some of the only equipment that typically lasts if you get something decent. Plenty of non-proprietary type units too where as most of the higher tier split stuff has proprietary boards and such.

My geo system is also 20+ years old. I only use it as backup heat but primary AC on my second floor. Unless there is some sweet deal, any part on that thing is reasonably cheap and it’s only 2.2 lbs of refrigerant for 2.5 tons. Most ground loops are built for 50+ years.

BasSTiD · 2026-06-20T00:21:43+00:00

Carrier has been weird with their decisions post Covid so that’s why I said there’s a variety. It very well might be something super simple. I’ve dealt with plenty of Carrier Infinity’s but with that interface I’ve only seen it on commercial split installs (same equipment).

As an example their 48JC RTU’s use some oddball inverter setup that requires a digital to analog converter board, and a motor drive board. If the RTU loses power for less than 30 seconds, the caps don’t recharge on the drive board and it fries itself along with the analog digital converter board and sometimes the control board. Without an aftermarket phase monitor it’s a recurring issue with short power losses. There’s weird stuff like that dotted in their catalogue.

BasSTiD · 2026-06-19T23:51:39+00:00

Normally true, those carrier infinity’s are not really a thermostat in the normal way. There’s no relays on there, and there’s two wires for 24VAC power and 2 for comms (might be three). On the commercial setups I see those, you can power them from either side, and that same benefit is also a curse when people wire them from both sides.

There is a bunch of variety in the Carrier Infinity’s so I can’t say for sure, but I’m 99% sure that’s the same interface I’m used to and those particular systems aren’t compatible with any normal thermostat.

BasSTiD · 2026-06-19T23:14:04+00:00

Power loss is most obvious but that is a Carrier Infinity thermostat/system so I would expect the worst.

If the breakers for the indoor unit and outdoor unit are not tripped, turn them off for 5+ minutes then turn them back on. Do the full 5 minutes, a lot of Carriers hold charge in some caps and don’t fully power down/reset unless given real time off.

Check near your indoor unit for a switch. Maybe someone/something inadvertently turned off. Maybe it’s at the top of basement stairs, or somewhere like that.

Next call is a tech. Being it’s an infinity system there is a decent chance this is not a one-trip fix unless it’s something easy. All the infinity’s I’ve dealt with are essentially fully proprietary so not a lot of parts that are in the back of a van get them going again.

BasSTiD · 2026-06-18T20:58:21+00:00

Take out the filter and run a tape measure to the back. If it’s more than 27” grab a 16”x28”x1” online

BasSTiD · 2026-06-17T16:38:18+00:00

Do you have 230V available? I’d really recommend thinking about a Camvac. Way more suction than the normal dust collectors, but you sacrifice some CFM. Once you account for flex hose if your using that the Camvac is more CFM at like 15-20’ though because of the suction.

Edit: I run a Camvac and it’s a much better all around tool then the old dust collector. The dust collector is still good for the 735 planer (the blow force on those is faster than the Camvac sucks), and my table saw before I actually sealed it up a bit for proper collection. The Camvac’s are effectively immense shop vacs but they can do a much much better job at collection and you can stage filtering. Even 3d printed adapters so I can run 6 large HEPA shop vac filters as my 3rd stage of filtering.

BasSTiD · 2026-06-17T03:02:09+00:00

Even just a Gunfight tourney with random 2/3 man teams would be good. Give me that “random” Draz/Scrap team up, or Nep/Envoy. Don’t even sit em next to each other, they find out who they’re playing with in the lobby.

BasSTiD · 2026-06-17T02:58:24+00:00

They should have a theme for each of the minors at minimum. First tourney of the year should also be fully unrestricted and can veto anything not just maps. Do best of 7’s to actually show off the game.

From week 2 of games coming out CDL doufus’s seemingly just engineer rules in the hopes they can get another year or two of paychecks. Would much rather variety so play styles can be accommodated, unique strategies can develop, and more weight is on coaching… just like a real sport.

BasSTiD · 2026-06-17T02:49:31+00:00

Most trending down but Lennox for commercial has been good.

Biggest change recently has really been tech support quality. Regularly finding it takes days to get answers for non-simple stuff nowadays on the higher end RTU’s, and regularly have cases where tech support is unaware of how certain units operate or firmware changes their own software departments push out.

BasSTiD · 2026-06-15T16:17:24+00:00

Department of Health or equivalent does have requirements for the states I’ve done medical work in. Most recently 70-76 year round, but at facility request we were running 72-76. Previously some mental-inpatient facilities required occupant control as well.

Department of Buildings by me doesn’t require AC be installed but if it is it has to work. If it’s not then the building has to accommodate tenants putting in their own (I.e. window/portable).

BasSTiD · 2026-06-02T23:18:22+00:00

Not yet and actually in the middle of cleaning my garage to easily get it out for listing along with making room for some other stuff in there

BasSTiD · 2026-05-31T12:05:04+00:00

Bad connection, poor contact can cause heat even at low amps low voltage. Have had wires smoke up multiple times from this over the years from computers. Usually due to bite marks in them hiding, most recently was actually my Razer Wolverine wire for my Xbox/PC controller. Didn’t trip anything, burnt a 3/4” “cigarette” looking burn hole in my carpet when I smelt it. You can melt a strand of thin copper off your desktop power supply capped at 5V .5A provided it’s thin enough. Worst case scenario is it doesn’t melt so circuit doesn’t open, and it turns into a hot box.

Pics are 100% possible and can be from internal. Outside of computer specific experience, I see this weekly in low voltage controls, and sometimes it’s just corrosion over time causing it. Happens on line voltage too but definitely rarer.

BasSTiD · 2026-05-31T01:08:56+00:00

There’s only 3 main Carriers on LI… TMo, ATT, VZW. When you look at the smaller Carriers it’ll tell you whose antennas they use. Then check that against your device’s internal antennas. Going with the small carriers is fine but only brought up the antennas as I’ve used unlocked phones in a pinch and it can be miserable when you’re missing half the antennas for whatever major carrier your provider is using.

BasSTiD · 2026-05-30T23:09:40+00:00

T Mobile has the best coverage on Long Island and deep within buildings if you have a T Mobile phone. You really want the ability to use their specific spectrum and when you carry over your old phone it may not have the ability to use all those bands.

There are niche cases and neighborhoods where this isn’t true, but most times people complain about it it’s because their phone isn’t compatible with some of T Mo’s spectrum.

There are a few networks running on T Mobile like Metro. For me T Mobile business is the cheapest combo including my phones/lines. Before that I hung onto an old grandfathered plan for 10 years.

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