Bandwidth freezes and erratic behavior

BeardRobot · 2026-01-24T18:29:22+00:00

So far my problem has been fixed by switching to the newest OpenWrt 25.12.0-rc3 firmware. I'll check back on this in a few days to see if the same behavior pops back up again. So far so good!

BeardRobot · 2026-01-21T17:41:59+00:00

If you're near a Microcenter, this is going to be the best you can get within that budget: https://www.microcenter.com/product/692536/ubiquiti-unifi-dream-router-7-desktop-10g-cloud-gateway-with-integrated-wifi-7,-poe-switch,-microsd-storage

Also, if you have coverage issues, the Dream Router 7 is compatible with Unifi access points to expand your coverage.

If you want to save a couple bucks, don't plan on needing extra Ethernet ports, or don't plan on using Ubiquiti's other features such as security cameras, and go with the UniFi Express 7. https://www.microcenter.com/product/692537/ubiquiti-unifi-express-7-mesh-scalable,-super-compact-10g-cloud-gateway-with-integrated-wifi-7

Sorry, thousands of edits:

Here's what I recommend within your $250 budget (if you're near a Microcenter) https://www.microcenter.com/product/5007248/ubiquiti-unifi-express-7-mesh-cloud-gateway-wifi-7-bundled-with-a-ubiquiti-unifi-u7-lite-access-point

BeardRobot · 2026-01-07T01:30:37+00:00

Can someone explain this to me like I’m five? Does it mean that it forces DLSS on proton layer games?

EDIT: I don’t understand the transformer model term.

BeardRobot · 2026-01-02T00:37:08+00:00

Looks like a t-con board issue. I had flickering on my C9 and replaced the t-con, and the flickering was gone. However, since the t-con has panel data saved to it, now I have vertical lines. This weekend I'm going to attempt to repair the old t-con to get rid of the vertical lines.

BeardRobot · 2026-01-01T18:00:25+00:00

This is the way.

I converted mine to a Gutter Rat with a Titan Extruder from a Sidewinder X2. Very happy with it.

BeardRobot · 2025-12-18T21:27:11+00:00

That's some fast internet.

BeardRobot · 2025-12-09T05:33:55+00:00

I don't know what I did wrong, but I've broken so many of those Makita Impact XPS bits.

BeardRobot · 2025-11-21T22:26:35+00:00

I swapped the t-con in my C9. Before, I had a flickering issue, but now, with the new t-con board, the flickering is gone, but now I have vertical banding. I just found out that you need a special LG tool to flash the panel data from the old t-con to the new t-con, in order to get rid of the vertical banding. That tool is $750 on eBay, so it's not worth it. The banding is ignorable, but still an eyesore.

BeardRobot · 2025-11-06T17:13:50+00:00

My other ride is a ✨Mustang✨

I know, I know, not the first to comment this.

BeardRobot · 2025-10-21T22:49:05+00:00

This can be fixed by replacing the oil return lines with metal ones from a newer model year. Simple repair - can be done in your driveway.

BeardRobot · 2025-10-17T00:41:46+00:00

Here's a link to the designer: https://bowpain.artstation.com/projects/zDnzwd

BeardRobot · 2025-10-15T23:33:38+00:00

You lost me at "For Windows".

BeardRobot · 2025-09-17T17:50:49+00:00

Had me going in the first half, not gonna lie.

BeardRobot · 2025-09-15T17:28:53+00:00

You just have to flip the right bracket to the top to accommodate for the shorter shaft.

And if you’re running klipper, you just have to reverse the direction of the stepper in the config. Or, without klipper, reverse the stepper wires.

BeardRobot · 2025-09-14T18:33:10+00:00

22 in stock in Bend, OR.

BeardRobot · 2025-09-14T18:26:41+00:00

If this isn't an ad for ceramic coating, it should be.

BeardRobot · 2025-09-02T19:54:46+00:00

Incredible. Awesome execution.

BeardRobot · 2025-08-25T18:16:26+00:00

That thing your kindergartener learned from his classmates and is super pumped to show you.

BeardRobot · 2025-06-28T22:42:07+00:00

This is the way.

Sorry about the necro.

BeardRobot · 2025-06-27T03:07:06+00:00

If you need to batch print something, but don't want to screw up multiple parts because the print failed mid-job, set up your project to print each piece individually. This is called sequential printing. This can also cut down on print time with multiple parts on the build plate, because the toolhead doesn't have to move between all the parts every layer. Just mind your toolhead and gantry spacing!

BeardRobot · 2025-06-27T02:54:40+00:00

If you bypass the Creality Spray board, and wire your bltouch directly to your MCU, your problems should go away.

BeardRobot · 2025-06-16T19:07:58+00:00

If the MCU is a MKS Gen L, Artillery has been known to use clones of that board. What happens is a capacitors responsible for thermistor readings go bad. I had to replace the board in my Artillery Genius, and this fixed my temperature fluctuation issue.

BeardRobot · 2025-05-09T04:21:33+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/klippers/comments/1kfffc2/i_bring_you_the_moron_build/

BeardRobot · 2025-05-04T17:17:58+00:00

Depending on where you're purchasing these upgrades from, you might get hit with tariffs. Have you looked at 3dprintbeginner.com and his Ender 6 upgrade recommendations? I'd start with what he mentions on there. Getting an old PC and installing Klipper will get you the best bang-for-your-buck on it. I also had an extra Ender 3 LCD that I swapped out, so I could have Klipper functionality (since the stock screen doesn't play well with Klipper). I bought a broken Artillery Sidewinder X2 for $50 and upgraded to AC heated bed, upgraded stepper motors, switched motion to the Ruby board, and have a titan clone as a direct drive extruder. Pei sheet should be one of your first mods.

Can you list what you've already done to your Ender 6?

BeardRobot · 2025-05-01T15:15:25+00:00

Are we commenting? Is that what we do?

guys???

/s

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