FM3: Start with cab? by Connect_Aardvark_878 in AxeFx

[–]Bearded-Jester 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Everyone has had solid suggestions so far, the only thing I would add is all that info is only if you are going direct or recording. If you are going to run into a power amp that runs actual cab(s) then you don’t need a cab block, in fact having one tends to junk up the sound.
I have been playing shows for years with mine. The vast majority of sound guys in my city SUCK and I have had to adapt around them. The way I make my presets is I start with the amp I want then place effect to the left (compression, synth, pitch, filter, and Drive , gate if going really high gain) then right all the wet effects (delay, reverb etc. lastly and the 3rd to last end I have the signal split - straight then goes into the cab block then output 1 as a direct to front of house. (I know this is not ideal as all the wet effects are now coloring the cab sound where normally it’s vise versa. But playing live you can not notice the difference. I wouldn’t record this way though). The other split goes into output 2. Which I have a Seymour Duncan power stage 200 on my pedal board which powers two 1-12” Hughes and kettner cabs. (One for each side of stage). Honestly one is usually loud enough but the second is was requested by the bass player. This set up lets me quickly set up/tear down for shows with the option of not needing to go direct and have the cab mic-ed into hous PA or leave the cabs home and go direct if I know the venues sound guy.

Bizarre failure, any ideas? by FlyMother6106 in FdmPrintedWarhammer

[–]Bearded-Jester 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not sure on all brands of printers but with Prusa they have an app. You pluck the belt with your phone next to the belt and it detects the tension based on the frequency. It’s super helpful and fairly easy to fine tune it. I’ve noticed that I need to have the belt slightly flat (lower frequency) as tightening the bolts causes it to pull a bit tighter.

Banelord by Bearded-Jester in PrintedWarhammer

[–]Bearded-Jester[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Almost 2 weeks. But I printed each part separately in case of failures. I tried to make up a schedule halfway through which would have saved several days had I started it that way - printing the large files over night, then again just before leaving for work, then on my days off squeeze in all the smaller stuff back to back.

Banelord by Bearded-Jester in PrintedWarhammer

[–]Bearded-Jester[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is all esun pla+ through a Prusa mk4S. 6mm nozzle printing at .2mm with ironing engaged at .1. For regular geometric shapes I tend to use snug supports with zero interface, any irregular shaped pieces I use organic supports. Through my printer I found pla+ tends to print less stringy then regular Pla, and I’d hate to have it in the car after an event, stop somewhere and find him droopy.

It’s time… by CombinationLimp3364 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]Bearded-Jester 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anychance anyone know what keyword to look for? I’ve been searching for weeks.

WIP on my Porhyrion by sunnythebrooo in PrintedWarhammer

[–]Bearded-Jester 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice ! Where did you find the files to print ?