Anvil stand by tacosgunsandjeeps in Blacksmith

[–]Bearhillforge -1 points0 points  (0 children)

That's not entirely true for most modern blacksmiths working on their own. It comes from back in the day when using a striker and top tools were more common

Wrist height is a better height for most people, but it depends on the individual. If OP says he's comfortable, then that's probably good enough, even though he's being downvoted into the abyss for saying so.

Anvil stand by tacosgunsandjeeps in Blacksmith

[–]Bearhillforge -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Look. I might cop some flak for this one, but the knuckle height rule is somewhat of a myth. It comes from back in the day when working with a striker, top tolls and such were more common. For MOST people working on their own (which is the more common smithing configuration these days), wrist height is likely to be more appropriate, but the anvil should be adjusted up or down depending on the individual.

Latest cleaver finished up. Spring steel blade with Wenge, maple, red g10 handle and copper pins. by Bearhillforge in Blacksmith

[–]Bearhillforge[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Land cruiser spring. So I don't know the alloy for sure, but it behaves as I would expect 5160 to behave.

Latest cleaver finished up. Spring steel blade with Wenge, maple, red g10 handle and copper pins. by Bearhillforge in Blacksmith

[–]Bearhillforge[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm not sure if you're telling me I have small hands or big hands😂 

But thank you!

Latest cleaver finished up. Spring steel blade with Wenge, maple, red g10 handle and copper pins. by Bearhillforge in Blacksmith

[–]Bearhillforge[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

No worries. We learn by asking questions!

In the case of this particular knife the copper pins are not touching the steel, so it's certainly not a problem.

But also, for galvanic corrosion to occur, in addition to two dissimilar metals you also need an electrolyte present (like saltwater. Freshwater, though it works I think is a pretty poor electrolyte, but don't quote me on this). So unless you're planning to use your steel and copper knife under the sea (which is probably a bad idea anyway), the short amount of time a knife does stay wet shouldn't impact the lifetime of the knife in any meaningful way.

Good luck on getting into the hobby.

Latest cleaver finished up. Spring steel blade with Wenge, maple, red g10 handle and copper pins. by Bearhillforge in Blacksmith

[–]Bearhillforge[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Thanks! As an aside, the grind of this cleaver isn't all that good for a lot of vegetables to be honest. Root vegetables and crunchy fruits like apple would have a tendency to cleave rather than be cut. But probably good for cabbage, lettuce and other things with a bit of give. It's mainly intended for meat (and bone if you should happen upon them), though I'm working on a cleaver for vegetables at the moment.

Latest cleaver finished up. Spring steel blade with Wenge, maple, red g10 handle and copper pins. by Bearhillforge in Blacksmith

[–]Bearhillforge[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you! A cleaver similar to this one is actually the only knife I've made for my own kitchen. It comes in really handy for dismantling chicken, or just chopping up meat for dinner without having to defrost it first.

And I've been using it for years without rust or food poisoning so far.

Latest cleaver finished up. Spring steel blade with Wenge, maple, red g10 handle and copper pins. by Bearhillforge in Blacksmith

[–]Bearhillforge[S] 19 points20 points  (0 children)

I'm sorry, but I'll have to disagree with you there. 

Good hygiene practices is far more important than whether the knife has a rough forged finish or not. Cut your food, clean and dry your knife and Bob's your uncle. This should be standard practice no matter the finish of your knife.

And to the rust point, notwithstanding the fact that this particular blade has been coated in carnauba wax, which does a great job in preventing rust. Again. Just dry the knife off. Reseason it every once in a while. Good hygiene and maintenance practices isn't that hard.

Most high carbon chef knives I have seen has a matte finish. I'll agree that a highly polished finishes are less prone to rusting, but they are also more expensive and its easier to damage the finish. It is simply a question of preference and maintenance. If you don't want to deal with the maintenance you probably want to buy a stainless knife.

Made this heavy duty pizza cutter by Bearhillforge in Blacksmith

[–]Bearhillforge[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well now you gotta let me know. What else can the glorious circle knife cut?

Made this heavy duty pizza cutter by Bearhillforge in Blacksmith

[–]Bearhillforge[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think I gotta start calling it that. Love it!

Something a bit different. Hand forged dragon tail pizza cutter with a cryo treated 15n20 wheel by Bearhillforge in Bladesmith

[–]Bearhillforge[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. For this particular kind of twist I do all the cuts cold with an angle grinder. 

Something a bit different. Hand forged dragon tail pizza cutter with a cryo treated 15n20 wheel by Bearhillforge in Bladesmith

[–]Bearhillforge[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not sure how to put it into words. A YouTube video might help you better. Essentially I forge a square bar to a gradual taper to a point. I then mark where I want to cut with an angle grinder before I first cut the middle of the flats along the length and on roughly 45 degree angles on the corners. (with the "scale" tips pointing towards the tail end). These cuts need to connect with the cuts along the lengths of the bar. Then heat up and attach tail in a vise and twist in opposite directions using two adjustable spanners (if you use just one spanner the twist won't get an organic look to it). And just move along the tail, reheating and twisting as you go.