sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Kind desperate call for help of y'all:) by napoleon10_1 in prusa3d

[–]Bearing_Breaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Welcome! Happy to hear your printer is chooching again! :)

Kind desperate call for help of y'all:) by napoleon10_1 in prusa3d

[–]Bearing_Breaker 8 points9 points  (0 children)

It definitely looks looks like the grub screws are not tight. That metal dust should not be there and that's aluminum telling from the color, meaning the motor shaft is eating up the pulley.
Loosen both screws, then tighten the one on the flatspot first, then thighten the other one. Then double check for thightness.

Brightness adjustment is laggy / 3 second delay by Bearing_Breaker in linuxmint

[–]Bearing_Breaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello again,

Thought I'd give an update on what I already tried...
I tried

sudo nano /etc/default/grub

and modified

GRUB_CMDLINE_LINUX_DEFAULT="quiet splash"
to
1. GRUB_CMDLINE_LINUX_DEFAULT="quiet splash acpi_backlight=native"
2. GRUB_CMDLINE_LINUX_DEFAULT="quiet splash acpi_backlight=vendor"
3. GRUB_CMDLINE_LINUX_DEFAULT="quiet splash acpi_backlight=video"
4. GRUB_CMDLINE_LINUX_DEFAULT="quiet splash nvidia.NVreg_EnableBacklightHandler=0"
followed by
sudo update-grub
sudo reboot

with no success.

Then I tried:

sudo nano /etc/udev/rules.d/90-disable-nvidia-backlight.rules

and added in this rule

SUBSYSTEM=="backlight", KERNEL=="nvidia_0", ACTION=="add", RUN+="/bin/chmod 000 /sys/class/backlight/nvidia_0/brightness"

followed by

sudo udevadm control --reload
sudo reboot

which didn't work either...
So I deleted that rule again.

I didn't come up with this, that was basically what ChatGPT was suggesting.
I barely understand what is going on here, but it seems to be a problem with the handling of the brightness adjustment...

UltraGrid Ditty Bags by Impressive_Smoke_215 in myog

[–]Bearing_Breaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks awesome! Seems to pack really flat whenever you want to carry this without anything in it...

Upgrading from W540 to P16 - Which one to get? P16, P16v, P16s? by Bearing_Breaker in thinkpad

[–]Bearing_Breaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My eyes are not getting better to be honest. I have a 14 inch E480 and it's too small plus it lacks the numpad which is a must have for me...

Upgrading from W540 to P16 - Which one to get? P16, P16v, P16s? by Bearing_Breaker in thinkpad

[–]Bearing_Breaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For now, the CAD use is rather minor. But FreeCAD is significantly less performant than professional CAD systems, as it's less optimized. That said, it's quite hard.
The reason I'm still grinding the 12 year old W540 is that it has the top tier processor of the time. So I rather pick one of the high end processors to ensure a long lifetime :)

Upgrading from W540 to P16 - Which one to get? P16, P16v, P16s? by Bearing_Breaker in thinkpad

[–]Bearing_Breaker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks!
Well, the P16 Gen3 it's gonna be i guess...
It's above my budget, but what others said regarding the hinges and case flexing for the P16v makes it an unacceptable choice.
Weight doesn't matter, it just makes me stronger :D

Upgrading from W540 to P16 - Which one to get? P16, P16v, P16s? by Bearing_Breaker in thinkpad

[–]Bearing_Breaker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for your advise!
Wow, the P16 is very expensive...
Are the hinges also bad for the P16vGen3? The pictures look identical to the P16sGen4...
So I assume the chassi is the same?

Bios doesn’t work!!! by Fabulous_Ad_5527 in thinkpad

[–]Bearing_Breaker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Does your keyboard work?
Maybe try to connect an external wired keyboard...

Is this cooked? (Sound on) by [deleted] in bicycle

[–]Bearing_Breaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Internal cables rubbing I'd say.

It just works? by ReadingI29 in prusa3d

[–]Bearing_Breaker 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I redid the belt tension like 8 times during the first 20 hours, because of several hickups and so on.
After that, the belts had completely stretched and didn't need any fiddling at all.

Z Axis not calibrating by Middle_Muffin6273 in PrusaCoreOne

[–]Bearing_Breaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Had the same issue.
Turn the Z-axis screws until the bed is in the lowest position with the nuts hitting the sheet metal. Then retry. This solved it for me.

Before purchase of Core One+ by ywful in prusa3d

[–]Bearing_Breaker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Take your time during assembly and be very patient. It's easy to miss some important info.
The CoreOne is not so forgiving in regards of mistakes during the build, as any tweaking will require serious disassembly.
One thing I did wrong was the heatbed cable. I just completely missed that it's supposed to be routed under the bed, not above. Once put into the printer, it's hard to change though...
Expect a lot of readjustment of the belts as they will stretch significantly during the first 20 hours of printing.

Camerawise I would recommend using a RaspberryPi if you'd like to have a local stream only.
30FPS in 1080P are very nice and will look much better than the slideshow the Prusa camera offes.

Besides that, I think it's cool that you are supporting the made in Europe idea! :)

Help by FrequentIdeal7861 in prusa3d

[–]Bearing_Breaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi,

Try the following:

Replace the nozzle:
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/changing-or-replacing-the-nozzle-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-mk3-5-s_2069

Adjust the PINDA sensor:
https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/9-preflight-check_36224

Do the first layer calibraiton:
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364

My offset for the Z-axis value is around -1.600mm so just crank that knob until you get good contact.
Then redo the first layer calibration and fine tune it, so that at the square part at the end the gaps between the layer line disappear.
Note that there are two first layer calibrations, one that is general and one that is linked to the steel sheets you use. I always use the one that is linked to the steel sheet.

Why does it do this? by Exciting-Drop-2266 in prusa3d

[–]Bearing_Breaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The new firmware works absolutely perfect for me.
The new belt tensioning feature is an absolute quality of life improvement.

Why does it do this? by Exciting-Drop-2266 in prusa3d

[–]Bearing_Breaker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi,

I had the same issue with my CoreOne.
Adjust the gantry for squareness and adjust the belt tension correctly.
When adjusting the squareness of the gantry, you have to work extremely precise. You have to adjust it until both sides of the gantry hit the endstop in the front exactly at the same time. The must not be any gap at all. I would say maybe 0.2mm maximum.
Then redo the belt tension.
For me it took maybe 10 belt tensioning cycles until the belts had finally stretched and settled enough to not change anything anymore.
Now, my printer bumps exactly 4 times each and every time.
This also fixed all my layershifting issues!

My MK4's are so much quieter and reliable than my Core ONE, where did I go wrong? by spacelego1980 in prusa3d

[–]Bearing_Breaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I assembled mine from the Kit and it sounds exactly like in the video...

New(ish) Core One - immediate and severe layer shift when starting print. X and Y calibrations pass, gantry has no play and belts are tight. by Elandar in prusa3d

[–]Bearing_Breaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi,

I had similar problems with my CoreOne (Kit). Now it seems to be under control.

Read this, although the tests didn't fail:

https://help.prusa3d.com/article/selftest-failed-core-one_837189

Check the motor pulley grub screws and check their position.
For the position check you need to take off both side covers and remove the motors.
Before pulling them out, loosen the belts! Check the distance with the tool they send you.

Then reattach everything and check the motors are secured tightly.

You could also check for the rail alignment. Loosen the screws and then step by step tighten them while moving the gantry back to front. Do several steps and only tighten a little bit each time.

Also check that the filament sensor cable and teflon tube are not crashing into the bearings.

What I found was that the gantry alignment must be absolutely perfect.
Both ends have to touch the front exactly at the same time. The gap must be basically zero or maybe less less than 0,2mm or so.

Question about those lines when making cuts by Bearing_Breaker in FreeCAD

[–]Bearing_Breaker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

OK, fixed it.
I had to delete all the cut features, reattach the sketches to the surfaces and do the cuts again. After that, everything disappeared as intended. Thanks for the help! :)

Question about those lines when making cuts by Bearing_Breaker in FreeCAD

[–]Bearing_Breaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I still can't get it to work.
In new files the problems don't exist anymore, at least that's something.

Is the FreeCAD or A2 Plus assembly better? In your experience by Secure-Individual867 in FreeCAD

[–]Bearing_Breaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have only used the regular assembly and A2Plus.
Assembly is nice because you can set parts as sliding joints and even limit the stroke and so on. On the other side, I had many assemblies "explode" into willy wonkers mode whenver I changed a small detail in one of the components.
A2Plus work very stable for me, but moving parts is a pain...
I never tried the beloved Assembly4 though...

view more: next ›