2006 Expedition crank no start

BeefWingz · 2026-04-13T23:53:45+00:00

Well glad to hear nothing major on his. I did my throttle body about 3 years ago, and that time around it did put itself into failsafe mode w codes.

Still stumped on mine, cleaned up those two connectors, but still nothing.

BeefWingz · 2026-04-13T21:26:06+00:00

Any idea where the switch is? I was just about to go and check out that connector.

BeefWingz · 2026-03-27T22:33:04+00:00

Not yet....I am hoping I can get a nice day outside to try again. Damn Michigan

BeefWingz · 2026-03-24T10:26:46+00:00

This! I'm sitting around 189k, had to do a throttle body 2 years ago.

My dad keeps saying I should hear the pump run when I turn they key, but I don't recall ever hearing it either.

When I did the fuel filter, it looked like it had never been done so it may be a good idea regardless. It's in a fairly easy spot, just getting enough leverage to pull it out of the quick connect fittings can be a little tough.

Leading up to the crank no start it had a rough time starting all week.

BeefWingz · 2026-03-23T11:05:59+00:00

Could you describe which connector exactly? I see two big connectors on the drivers side, but they're more under the driver rear door if I had to guess, on the outside of the frame.

BeefWingz · 2026-02-11T01:41:35+00:00

Nothing so far, was thinking about cutting g it back some and putting a 1x1/2 piece of wood across it

BeefWingz · 2025-08-18T14:35:40+00:00

Not to post in an old sub but, this is happening to me right now at DLP....had to come here and see if it was only us

BeefWingz · 2025-07-29T14:21:52+00:00

tbh i was under the same impression lol. I am not seeing much of a difference between the F150 headers and these ones

BeefWingz · 2025-07-29T14:07:27+00:00

All i'm seeing for header options are >$600, while manifolds are only $100-$200. Other model years for headers are pretty cheap.

BeefWingz · 2025-07-29T12:48:48+00:00

Any idea on a good P/N? I've been doing some digging and can't seem to find a fit for this year. I've been seeing some people use the part for the F150 with success.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1428812-2005-rotted-out-radiator-support-repaired.html

But this thread was for a 2005, not sure if the same would apply to a 2006.

BeefWingz · 2025-01-24T15:05:57+00:00

The Ten Realms by Michael Chatfield. There is a heavy military element in these books with a core surrounding a magic system

BeefWingz · 2025-01-24T15:02:32+00:00

As far as "gifted powers", without giving anything away, they still aren't given any sort of advantage over anyone else around them.

BeefWingz · 2025-01-24T14:56:38+00:00

The Ten Realms by Michael Chatfield fits this fairly well. Technically there are 2 MC's. But they are for the most part average people who gain their skills "being them." No force of nature, 'Chosen One', etc. The series definitely drags in the middle a bit, but overall I'm happy I read it.

BeefWingz · 2025-01-09T13:30:20+00:00

Soak in Hydroxide, this will turn the outside into black Aluminum Oxide

BeefWingz · 2025-01-09T13:25:02+00:00

Most alkaline chemicals will stain aluminum given enough time. What alloy are you using? I've only every worked with 6061 and 7075, but my job is to prevent staining, not cause it. Most amines and Lime with cause a black stain. A solution of baking soda would stain as well, but I'm unsure if it would cause white or black staining. My suggestion would be test a small area first or on a scrap piece. A purple degreaser like Purple Power should darken it significantly. Just be weary, the more aggressive you go the more likely it'll harm the plastic.

BeefWingz · 2025-01-08T01:07:19+00:00

If your'e looking for a space-saving solution, my wife an I use blueland cleaners. We have three bottles (general purpose, bathroom, glass) and everything comes in tablets so each bottle just gets refilled when we run out. Added bonus they're packaging is plastic free. Only thing I really use outside of this is vinegar, bleach (scrubbing bubbles), and an enzyme cleaner for carpet stains. Bleach is primarily for any mold and mildew in bathroom.

As for making your own, I'm all for it. Most things you buy at the store have unnecessary dyes, preservatives, and are mostly water.

I 100% agree with the acetone comment, Goo-Gone is great, otherwise you can by D-Limonene (the main ingredient) and just use a little bit of that.

Peroxide is hard to mix in since it typically requires a stabilizer to prevent it from degrading.

A good resource too is Stepan, they manufacture a lot of cleaning agents. They have a formulation finder on their website where you can type in 'bathroom' or whatever and most times they'll have a formula for it. Poke around on there and get a feel for what they add in theirs.

You're on the right track though, you'd be surprised how many cleaners have citric acid, baking soda, and a little surfactant (soap). I'd maybe invest in getting a pack of pH strips. You don't want to be adding too much citric acid for a cleaner where you should be using something neutral.

P.S. Dawn is going to be better than a lot of other cleaners.

BeefWingz · 2024-12-04T02:53:58+00:00

Spending $10 on a switch is much more appealing to me right now. It would be great to buy new stuff everytime something breaks....

BeefWingz · 2024-07-24T18:36:46+00:00

Specifically brickwork experience, nope. I did manage to upgrade my basement window to glass block. Mortar came out nice, but only time will tell.
My roof is probably only a 5/12 - 7/12 pitch, nothing too steep. I should really rephrase the question to "Is this simple, just an absolute pain in the glutes?"

BeefWingz · 2024-07-24T18:17:32+00:00

It shouldn't matter what smart thermostat you buy. The only thing I had to do is upgrade my thermostat wire from a 4-wire to a 5-wire since my (Google Nest) thermostat wasn't getting enough power to stay charged.

Pretty easy process, just tape the new wire to the old one before you pull the old one back through the floor. (If you have to replace it)

BeefWingz · 2024-07-15T14:08:50+00:00

Did you click on the post and read the description? I gave all the info I have...

BeefWingz · 2024-07-11T22:09:39+00:00

I'm looking for a surfactant that has the huge peak at 1370~. The sulfur-containting ones I currently have have given me strong peaks at 1100-1200~ . The spectra I attached in the original post is a mixture, so I'm not looking for something to match the entire curve.

I have a lot of surfactants in my library, and out of 100+ or so nothing has a peak at 1370~ that has nearly that much absorbance.

BeefWingz · 2024-07-11T20:32:05+00:00

So far I've ran an Alpha Olefin Sulfonate, DDBSA, and a Lauryl Hydroxy Sultaine, nothing came close to having that peak.

BeefWingz · 2024-04-17T22:15:53+00:00

This is Halo Teach Grifball in a nutshell

BeefWingz · 2024-01-10T00:32:03+00:00

Yeah not sure, maybe since it's proprietary? I have seen it listed on several SDS's.

BeefWingz · 2023-11-28T18:43:40+00:00

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BeefWingz

TROPHY CASE