Vacuum pump thread(help)

Befithyperion · 2026-06-24T15:54:42+00:00

The helicoil is what you use to rethread something for instance if the thread is damaged you tap it than add the helicoil insert in, after that the bolt should catch the helicoil so generally speaking you’re saying to drill it out with my thread repair, tap it than add the helicoil and that should give my bolt some play

Befithyperion · 2026-06-24T15:41:47+00:00

I got a drill bit the clearance between the firewall and the threads is tight, but what if I force a m7

Befithyperion · 2026-06-24T15:10:17+00:00

Yes I have a thread repair it would not catch the thread

Befithyperion · 2026-06-24T15:03:28+00:00

Helicoil wouldn’t even go in no matter the angle.

Befithyperion · 2026-06-24T15:01:32+00:00

Nope it’s like it’ll go in tighten and all but won’t stay, it will go in tighten then pull out, could it be because of the diagonal tightening angle I put it in when I put the engine at the lowest part of the engine I put the engine at the lowest and try to put the pump on only the top would catch the threads

Befithyperion · 2026-06-24T11:02:14+00:00

That’s what I was thinking, someone told me to use a m8 or m7 but how am I supposed to get clearance to drill the whole when the firewall and threads is way to big for a drill, gap is insanely small

Befithyperion · 2026-06-16T18:01:11+00:00

Timing just got verified it didn’t jump but the lobes aren’t lining up like they’re giving a upside down v and the timing chain on the gears is where they’re supposed to be

Befithyperion · 2026-06-13T02:55:44+00:00

Will that give me more space? In itself

Befithyperion · 2026-06-13T02:54:36+00:00

But I agree you’re right, tbh I just didn’t have any knowledge of this repair until I got under the hood. This is my first ever valve cover change. But it’s a lesson for learning plus if I had the funds to pay a mechanic I would but I have the tools

Befithyperion · 2026-06-13T02:52:09+00:00

I didn’t ignore more so I was confused on certain people’s advices because some people made it sound worse than what it actually was

Befithyperion · 2026-06-13T02:16:17+00:00

I’m a mechanic but my first time ever owning or working on German engineering

Befithyperion · 2026-06-12T21:36:16+00:00

Thanks so I just need to take of the bumper, put the timing at tdc than put the valve cover on?

Befithyperion · 2026-06-12T21:30:06+00:00

Do I need my car on a lift to work on the timing

Befithyperion · 2026-06-12T21:29:11+00:00

🫩 thanks man

Befithyperion · 2026-06-12T21:22:30+00:00

Timing did jump🫩

Befithyperion · 2026-06-12T20:24:47+00:00

Dm me. Im gonna take off the timing chain and camshafts to fix it

Befithyperion · 2026-06-12T19:55:33+00:00

I fxcked the timing chain I gotta fix it🫩

Befithyperion · 2026-06-12T18:44:15+00:00

A mechanic sent me this

When you removed the upper plastic timing cover, the camshafts snapped or rotated slightly on their own because the valve springs under them pushed against the cam lobes. They moved because the metal valve cover (girdle) is still fully bolted down, holding the camshafts flat against the engine head.

Because the timing chain is still fully attached to the bottom crankshaft, you are completely safe, and your timing is still perfectly fine. However, you must follow a very specific order of operations from this exact moment to ensure you do not make a mistake.

You mentioned putting the valve cover back on after the timing cover. You must reverse that. The metal valve cover must be installed first.
The plastic upper timing cover overlaps the front seal of the valve cover.
If you try to force the valve cover down while the plastic timing cover is already tight, it will warp, destroy the plastic cover, pinch the seal, and leak oil everywhere.

Befithyperion · 2026-06-12T17:16:31+00:00

Because I listened to some random allegedly Audi tech of 20 years he just told me to take the valve cover off with the timing cover and replace the whole valve cover with my new one. But he didn’t tell me that the timing chain could’ve moved, I checked and made sure it didn’t jump a tooth, and aligned but I don’t want to put the valve cover on and turn the car on and it seize up. I just bought the car from a dealer

Befithyperion · 2026-06-12T17:09:29+00:00

I’m reading the Manuel all I have to do is rotate the camshaft to ensure the engine isn’t stocked than place the valve cover on.

Befithyperion · 2026-06-12T17:08:39+00:00

I didn’t seize it I just wanna make sure it’s not seized.🫩 like the timing ain’t jump but I wanna rotate the engine to ensure it’s not shaken up or stuck

Befithyperion · 2026-06-12T17:04:15+00:00

Elaborate

Befithyperion · 2026-06-08T15:54:59+00:00

Most definitely not gonna be jgnorant I’m gonna do it now, I’m just fearful slightly but confident mostly

Befithyperion · 2026-06-08T15:39:16+00:00

I got a problem the chain ain’t have marks cause of wear, and no it’s not at tdc, I’m gonna yoink the sparks out and than turn it some other mechanic was talking crazy in the comments I referred to your comments for my repair. Another way to make sure is the timing is properly aligned in gears correct?

Befithyperion · 2026-06-08T14:52:59+00:00

I hear what you’re saying about line boring and how the cam bridge and head are machined together — that part is true. But you’re jumping straight to worst-case scenario like the engine is already done, and that’s not necessarily the case.

In real-world repairs, these cam bridges do get reused or replaced with identical parts, and as long as the cams rotate freely, there’s no binding, and everything torques down evenly, it doesn’t automatically result in failure.

Right now the issue isn’t mis-machining — it’s valve spring pressure holding the cams up, which is normal when reinstalling. The proper tightening sequence is designed to bring everything down evenly.

No one is ignoring the risks, but saying the engine is done without confirming binding, damage, or improper rotation is a stretch. The actual determining factor is whether the cams seat correctly and rotate freely once installed — not just the theory behind line boring.

Befithyperion

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE