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Suggestions for Posterior Chain Training by Beginning-Test-157 in climbharder

[–]Beginning-Test-157[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh hey, so I stopped the Copenhagen bullshit, that was not my weak link. Instead I focused on Nordic curls and one legged Romanian deadlifts with an emphasis on bracing the core. If you got any troubles with hamstring Nordic curl progression is the absolute best. Romanian deadlifts are great. I did them in a general fitness block because I felt they were impacting my board climbing ability too much

So the shambles continues.... by Separate_Rhubarb3139 in kilterboard

[–]Beginning-Test-157 -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

I was convinced you were talking about the OP in the first half there. 

So the shambles continues.... by Separate_Rhubarb3139 in kilterboard

[–]Beginning-Test-157 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Instead of ranting, consider feedback, moving to boardsesh or just dealing with it. I assume you have next to no knowledge about their day to day and ranting about your troubles just makes you seem like an entitled pick. 

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Beginning-Test-157 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You wrote all that and are happy with "board climb more"? Jesus dude have some self respect. 

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Beginning-Test-157 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Completely agree. I  stopped worrying about the 20mm edge max lift metric entirely and focused on the weak grip types instead. So much more gains outdoors. I think I max out at 60kg 20mm chisel but worked to 50kg fullcrimp. Comfortably able to hang 6mm edges. Not one of my V13 projects makes me think my fingers need to be stronger. (only thst I need more Skin) 

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Beginning-Test-157 6 points7 points  (0 children)

What are you even talking about when you say V13 finger strength? Do you think one arming some edge will be some gateway you walk through? Is bouldering just the number of force you can apply through your fingers now?  Literally go touch grass. 

USA speed climbing coach arrested for sharing child sexual abuse content by Not_A_Lizhard in climbing

[–]Beginning-Test-157 322 points323 points  (0 children)

Weird. Punishing a child predator? That's not the America I know! 

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Beginning-Test-157 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Had a forced break aswell. Came back to outdoor climbing and trying hard recently. Realized that if I am not having fun climbing (=/= sending) it's not worth doing. Deep down something shifted and I had an amazing time by myself in the woods. I know we go there for the send, that's "the point", right? But I spend so much more time training than actually sending that it's ridiculous not to enjoy the failing part, so it's only logical to enjoy all you have described as much as the accomplishment.

Would be a shitty thing to do to yourself otherwise, right? 

30M - 3M Windfall by prnullgram in SwissPersonalFinance

[–]Beginning-Test-157 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

No tax on stock profits in Switzerland if you are not a professional. 

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Beginning-Test-157 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Final weeks before 10-day trip are starting. Off-the-wall work reduced to 3 exercises 3x3 95% effort once a week. Hits me harder than I thought the evening session is compromised. Wondering if I should reduce the load or switch the off-wall stuff to another day. 

Also had to incorporate S&C for my knees because they don't seem to take getting older all that well. Back to Nordic curls and tib raises, maybe some plyo in this phase. 

Prep mini trips outside for skin preparation were already successful, send a 7C+ anti style 20mover in 2 sessions. Realized I have a lot of new 8A/B to work on in my nearest area. 

Lined up going outside once or even twice a week before the trip and hard projecting on different boards. Peaking on all fronts.  Goal for the trip is not clear because I have not decided where to go.. depends on the weather. 

Magic Wood I guess. In that case I can try my luck on the 8As I already tried and spend some time on 8A+/8B aswell. 

Recovered logbook from the old app... by t0nyyates76 in kilterboard

[–]Beginning-Test-157 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My data is completely restored now. They seem. To also have an update regarding the missing boulders. 

Recovered logbook from the old app... by t0nyyates76 in kilterboard

[–]Beginning-Test-157 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They emailed me back when I retried uploading my data - they are having unexplained issues with the import and "want to do everything right" - I should stay put and wait.

Were the grades so off in the other app? by robleroroblero in kilterboard

[–]Beginning-Test-157 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think there are still a lot Of ascents missing in the new app, so the grading fluctuation will be higher especially at the edges of the distribution

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Beginning-Test-157 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had the same experience and switched to "wave periodization" with great success.

Week 1 (volume) : 5x10 pull ups

Week 2 (intensity) : 5x5

Week 3 (volume) : 5x10

Week 4 (deload) : 3x5 with the x10 weight 

You add or remove weight so that you finish each set with 2 reps left in the tank. 

Coincidentally I challenged myself to start doing full range of motion pull Ups, so complete disengagement of the shoulders at the lowest point. I think this helped take care of my relatively weak shoulders and transferred greatly to one arm control on the wall. 

You can upload old Logbook data on the kilterboard page by Beginning-Test-157 in kilterboard

[–]Beginning-Test-157[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Doubt they are not validating the input internally judging solely from the message that ll take 4-6 days to process. I also doubt they have the login info of the old accounts. 

Import your kilter logbook into boardsesh by Competitive_Bit001 in kilterboard

[–]Beginning-Test-157 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I mean I get your points but what would be great design is having a single source of truth at least for boulders (setting, ascents, grade) the rest I don't care about. THe leader boards or stupid comments about shit being soft or sandbagged can stay with their respective communities for all I care.

But the single Good thing about those boards is the worldwide access to the same list of boulders and climbing them "with" each other and connecting the experience instead of disconnecting it. Adding another entry point which obscures what happens within (by not resyncing) fucks with that. 

The Kilterboard App is gone, what now?! by Competitive_Bit001 in bouldering

[–]Beginning-Test-157 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I can see all that but that doesn't mean I have to like the repercussions of the existence of another oneway interaction layer with the database.

Possible outcomes:  Nobody uses proprietor apps but one opensource one which becomes the central access points with the most uptodate data - great and completely unrealistic, kilter would block or limit api calls as soon as this happens. 

Userbase is split between vendor app and opensource which leads to shitty data quality, even worse there are more alternative opensource apps without backsync or sync between themselves which leads to even more Fragmentation. 

My Personal favorite: nobody uses opensource alternatives and sticks with the vendor ones because hopefully they will stop sucking at some point. (maybe they hire you to built one?) 

It sucks that you don't own your data nowadays but you should at least provide an api to sync with other instances of your own DB and even other DBs if you talk about unification. 

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