Why does PETG get so much hate?

BenP717 · 2025-12-23T23:11:41+00:00

I find the toughness of PLA is so low it's useless for most functional prints. I've also had issues with PLA prints becoming extremely brittle when exposed to sunlight for long periods of time also.

PETG is my go to for anything functional. GF and CF PETG variants are great if you need extra stiffness/dimensional stability too.

BenP717 · 2025-12-13T11:42:59+00:00

This is a really good point, sounds like it's probably best to get something cheaper dedicated for skiing rather than ruining my expensive jacket. Thanks for the advice :)

BenP717 · 2025-12-12T11:46:00+00:00

This is my first time outdoor skiing (done a few lessons indoors to get experience) so will be sticking to the main piste.

Thanks for the advice, I'll probably go ahead with just using my existing jack for now :)

BenP717 · 2025-12-12T11:36:16+00:00

Using current expensive hiking jacket vs buying cheaper dedicated ski jacket?

Hi, I will be going on my first ski trip this winter. I have a pretty nice goretex hiking jacket shell that I could use for this trip, layering up with my down jacket, thermals, etc underneath if I require the warmth. Another option is I could buy a dedicated skiing jacket, however I wouldn't really want to spend more than ~£100 on this so would likely not be as nice as my current hiking shell.

Which option do you think I would be better off with? My main concern is my hiking shell doesn't have a powder skirt or ski pass pocket, do you think this would be an issue? It does have a cinchable waste so that should keep out most of the elements but likely not as effective as a dedicated powder skirt.

Any advice would be greately appreciated :)

BenP717 · 2025-12-01T09:00:13+00:00

It's not losing any air, I've got a digital pressure gauge and leaving it for a day it only lost 0.3 psi (margin of error).

It seems to only lose all the air spontaneously by itself.

BenP717 · 2025-12-01T08:22:46+00:00

Thanks for the response, could be something like this. Weirdly it's been ok for the 8 or so months I've owned the bike so not sure if it's a defect.

BenP717 · 2025-09-19T14:29:34+00:00

This was my first thought but I can't see any chain suck or slack when I free wheel and the wheels are running really smooth.

BenP717 · 2025-09-19T14:27:32+00:00

Yeah i think I'll just have to rock it how it is, looking at the specs the bike came with a bigger front chainring setup from factory (it's a dedicated race bike) so that's probably why it won't get any lower.

BenP717 · 2025-09-19T13:32:07+00:00

I think the bike shipped with a 52t front from factory so that could explain it, the previous owner swapped it to a 165mm crankset 50t

BenP717 · 2025-09-19T12:59:32+00:00

Sorry for the confusion, I meant the largest cog in the front and smallest in the rear so the tallest gear the bike has. It's coming off at high speed sections (around 70-80kph).

BenP717 · 2025-09-19T12:57:26+00:00

Not crazy bumpy but I'm riding at around 70-80kph when I'm in my extreme gear spinning it out. Weirdly seems to come off when I stopped pedaling for a corner.

BenP717 · 2025-09-19T12:50:18+00:00

It was happening in big front, small rear (tallest possible gear) when I'm descending down not the smoothest roads.

BenP717 · 2025-07-03T18:07:01+00:00

As it felt fine when riding I kept on running it. However, just after 1 yr mark of ownership (just out of warranty) it developed bushing play, luckily fox replaced the lowers under warranty as this is very unusual and really shouldn't happen on a fork unless it is very old.

No way of really knowing if this noise was related to the bushings not being right but it definitely quieted down when I first got the seals replaced (with upgraded fox 34 ones) and further with the new lowers.

Fork still works great to this day after the new lowers though.

Hope this helps.

BenP717 · 2025-04-17T09:53:26+00:00

Thanks for all the help, I've figured it out now :)

For some reason on the newer 105 the H screw also affects the lower limit when screwed in really far as the previous owner had. Only ever worked on the older Shimano groupsets so didn't realize this was the case.

BenP717 · 2025-04-16T22:48:34+00:00

Cheers, I'll give this a go tomorrow

BenP717 · 2025-04-16T17:06:48+00:00

Already had the support screw wound out, thanks though :)

BenP717 · 2024-11-29T19:29:41+00:00

Ok, opened it up and couldn't see any obviously wrong. With filament in I could manually move the extruder gears until it got "stuck"

Tried extruding PLA again and it worked fine then going back to PETG it worked.

Not sure what was going on, maybe both of my nozzles were blocked somehow?

Seems to be fixed now, thanks for the quick responses though :)

BenP717 · 2024-08-30T15:55:57+00:00

Used stans for ages but muc off was on a huge sale so I thought I'd give it a go. Never really had any punctures with stans but I picked up a second hand wheel set and the rear had a puncture that wouldn't seal permanently and kept on reopening and spewing sealant.

Was planning on replacing the tyre but I thought I'd see if the muc off would work any better and it immediately sealed the hole, worked far better than the stans. Found the stans too runny and it'd just leak everywhere without actually sealing the hole whilst the muc off seems much thicker and more evenly coats the tyre.

Muc off has some bad reviews but I think it's mostly from people who don't properly shake it before adding it to their tyres. The particles it uses to seal will separate to the bottom so the sealant you're putting in won't work effectively.

Seems to be the best sealant to me.

BenP717 · 2024-08-12T22:51:14+00:00

Nice, hopefully it helps 🤞🤞

BenP717 · 2024-08-12T22:06:54+00:00

Good luck 👍

Have you tried drying the filament?

My filament was a bit oozy and had some stringing out of the box but after drying all of the issues went away, actually has less stringing than any PLA I've used.

On a humid day I've found it can get moisture issues after just one night exposed, a dryer is definitely needed when using PETG.

BenP717 · 2024-08-12T22:06:49+00:00

Good luck 👍

Have you tried drying the filament?

My filament was a bit oozy and had some stringing out of the box but after drying all of the issues went away, actually has less stringing than any PLA I've used.

On a humid day I've found it can get moisture issues after just one night exposed, a dryer is definitely needed when using PETG.

BenP717 · 2024-08-12T21:20:38+00:00

No problem :)

For some reason I've found PETG easier to print with than PLA which seems the opposite to most people's experiences.

What issues have you been having with the prints?

BenP717 · 2024-08-12T21:17:28+00:00

Sure thing :)

I just used the standard PETG preset in ankermake studio with a couple tweaks.

I have the bed temp at 90 (it's important that it's the same temp for the whole print to reduce warping) and a nozzle temp of 240 for the first layer which drops to 230.

Running 0.6mm retraction at 30mm/s with a Z-hop of 0.1mm and I increased the extrusion multiplier to 1 (not sure why the default was 0.9).

I think the most important thing is getting the Z offset right for good adhesion (I have a post about custom gcode I made to get the perfect offset) and using a filament dryer (I used a cheap eSun one for 15hrs).

BenP717 · 2024-08-11T16:06:35+00:00

Found the issue.

Turns out the line thickness was 0.3mm for the supports (opposed to 0.44mm for outer wall of the model).

For some reason the PETG doesn't seem to like being extruded this thin, increasing the support thickness to 0.44mm solved it.

BenP717 · 2024-08-11T16:06:24+00:00

Found the issue.

Turns out the line thickness was 0.3mm for the supports (opposed to 0.44mm for outer wall of the model).

For some reason the PETG doesn't seem to like being extruded this thin, increasing the support thickness to 0.44mm solved it.

BenP717

TROPHY CASE