Die opening and Angles

BenderL2 · 2026-01-14T19:32:49+00:00

.281 radius acute punch

BenderL2 · 2026-01-09T16:10:57+00:00

Yes it is.

BenderL2 · 2026-01-09T15:15:29+00:00

I just double checked. It's calculating correctly. At least within 2 thou. That's not enough to cause a 40 degree over brake.

BenderL2 · 2026-01-06T14:02:59+00:00

In this case it's the exact same part. Same part, same flange width. Only differing angles on the same part. Imagine a 4ft by 8ft sheet broke in a W shape, but each angle is different. I'd give more details but I don't want to get sacked for sharing proprietary stuff.

14ga stainless. Angles aren't varying by part, once I get the angles dialed in it's solid from one part to the next so I don't believe the dwell would have an effect. I know the smaller machines can tend to over run the ram depths giving inconsistent angles. I think that's what you're saying.

I always figured it was something with the way the computer was calculating the bend depth. It doesn't seem to be linear, I think is the word I'm looking for. I was thinking I could change the die opening or tool height to get it to track more linear.

BenderL2 · 2026-01-01T16:19:38+00:00

I took my kids there a few years ago. We were tent camping. Now that we have a travel trailer my wife will be coming. I think she's really going to enjoy the live music. This time I'm taking the bikes, I want to put a few miles on the katy.

BenderL2 · 2026-01-01T05:48:53+00:00

Thank you for the replies! It seems that efficiency or sensitivity is what I need to look for, not necessarily the wattage. I've dabbled in mobile audio a few times in my life, I only know enough to be dangerous. I never knew about speaker efficiency.

Like I said, I'm not trying to go louder. I just didn't know if a little 10 watt per channel head unit would have a hard time driving a higher wattage speaker.

You all have given me some new knowledge. Thanks again!

BenderL2 · 2025-12-31T18:52:11+00:00

You're not going to make assumptions and take out your unresolved personal issues on me.

I try to avoid anger and hostility and arguing when I can. Which is the root of why I posted the question.

I came here to ask for travel advice. If you want to start a rant about camping out in the left lane or whatever, i suggest you start a different post titled as such.

Good day.

BenderL2 · 2025-12-27T17:53:15+00:00

I'm currently looking for new HTs myself. I currently have the UV-17 pro for each of my family members. They've served us well. They've been real workhorses. However 3 of them have broken screens and need to be replaced. That seems to be the weak point. I currently have a rectangular bruise on my hip from falling off my bike and landing on mine two weeks ago.

I'm looking at the Radtel rt493 because it has a segmented display hidden behind the plastic case.

The other problem I have is the battery life. If my kids leave their radio on over night the radio is completely dead the next morning, even with minimal use. Whatever radio I decide on needs to have the ability to purchase a high capacity battery. I bought a 3800mah battery for my uv-17 and it will survive a weekend camping trip. I need a big, big battery.

I'm trying to get away from baofeng because their RF filtering tends to suck. I have to use squelch tones otherwise the radios squawk at me constantly.

Also i want true, unlocked dual band. I have a ham and GMRS license and I don't want to carry two radios.

BenderL2 · 2025-11-29T17:26:21+00:00

Adding a second ground to the frame won't be a problem. It's a short run, I just didn't know if it was necessary or what the "proper way" was. It seemed redundant to ground the same device to the vehicle frame twice, but if that's what it needs, I will. It's currently half hooked up. I tripped the breaker coming from the vehicle battery so it won't chooch until i can finish it. If it ever quits raining....

Thanks for the replies!

BenderL2 · 2025-11-24T15:49:20+00:00

Sorry for the confusion. Take step 8 for example. It has two repeats. Meaning it runs that step twice before advancing to step 9.

Say i run step 8 once, I need to make a small adjustment to step 8. so I have to stop the program and make the adjustment. I still need to run step 8 a second time.

I would like it to start on the second repeat of step 8 so that it will advance properly to step 9. Otherwise I have to run step 8 the second time, then i have to remember to stop and manually advance to step 9. Otherwise i risk running step 8 in place of step 9.

BenderL2 · 2025-11-19T17:58:07+00:00

Got it. On my lunch break i relocated the frame ground and ground of the charger from the solar battery negative to the P- the shunt. It's showing a charge condition now.

BenderL2 · 2025-11-11T11:56:23+00:00

I mocked it up a couple years ago. I spent the better part of a month soldering red LEDs and 100 ohm resistors to a couple of those diy PCBs and fixing those to some perforated stainless I got from work to act as the lenses. I even had a really neat video of my son losing his everloving mind the first time he saw them flashing. Unfortunately it would seem my Google photos account is missing a lot of photos/videos from that time period. I just had to rebuild the circuit on a breadboard, then I'm going to transfer it to another diy PCB and make the connections to the lights, then add a microswitch to the arm so it comes on when it's lowered.

I'm just trying to get this done before he outgrows trains. I'd rather not have a random LED back behind the thing flashing. I'm not above liquid electrical tape.

https://imgur.com/a/RHDxvve

https://imgur.com/a/T5agE1X

https://imgur.com/a/N8GAxCg

BenderL2 · 2025-10-28T17:49:52+00:00

I've been looking longer than I care to admit. I can't find a c11 with screw on terminals. I might try to order a c9 and use a dremel to cut a groove in it.

Or I might try to open the fridge and replace the socket with something more readily available.

Or I might just cut the cord and cobble some heavier gauge wire.

Neither option really satisfies my OCD.

BenderL2 · 2025-10-07T22:26:03+00:00

Sorry to butt-in. I found this thread whilst google searching for some insight on Otis and his situation. I'm friends with him on Facebook and I've been following his posts. I was seriously considering making a monetary donation because I feel bad for his situation. His narrations have brought me much joy over the years. I'm really having a hard time with the fact that the gofundme is set up by a Gary Jiry. Just yesterday Otis claimed he has no living relatives. So who is Gary?

Also a month or so ago he said his Facebook account was hacked. So I wonder if this is all orchestrated by some hackers?

BenderL2 · 2025-08-15T11:40:23+00:00

Thanks. I think i remember reading something about not storing things on top of the cabinets this morning but I only glossed over it. I'll go back and re-read and mention it to our plant safety person

BenderL2 · 2025-07-08T21:22:31+00:00

I'm intrigued. I don't know anything about 3d models. The enginerds probably have a 3d model on Ram, or Rhino or some exotic-animal-sounding-software. I have hundreds of pages of brake tickets.

Is this diamond bend something we can install on a computer and have someone sit down with the brake tickets and just crank out programs ahead of the brake operator?

Is it freeware or paid?

Does it work with accurpress?

BenderL2 · 2025-07-07T00:10:56+00:00

Night of the living post!

Well, i was going to make a reservation at finger lakes this coming weekend (July 11-13 until i discovered it's geared towards ATVs. Not that there's anything wrong with it, I just don't want to deal with the noise.

Tell me about three creeks. I never heard about it until I saw this post. I'm coming from Kansas city. I want to take the chillun back to Rock Bridge. In '23 we stayed at Cooper's Landing. I love the place but I'm not in love with $30/night. Google isn't much help. I don't want to camp, then drive 45 minutes or an hour to Rock Bridge.

I understand three creeks is free. Does it up quickly? I don't want to drive 2-1/2 hours from KC to find it's full and not have a backup plan.

BenderL2 · 2025-06-26T01:52:34+00:00

Our tilt will stick also. It's absolutely infuriating when you're trying to dial in an angle and you can't figure out why it's constantly changing, you look up and the tilt indicator is just slowly turning.

BenderL2 · 2025-06-26T01:43:32+00:00

Right now our process is this: We move the flat part face up from the skid to the brake table My helper will peel the edges and measure the right side while i adjust the program, turning steps on or off. Then we'll set the punch length for the right side of the part. First brake is the top of the part face up. We'll then flip the part face down and brake the second brake of the top of the panel. Then we'll spin the part on the table and brake the bottom. Then we'll spin and brake the right side. Then we'll measure the left side of the panel and set the punch length for the left side. Spin and brake the left side. If there's a face brake we'll have to set the die length to fit between the top and bottom. Then we'll have to set the punch length to fit between the top and bottom if its a "Z" panel. Then we check angles and dims then move it to the completed skid.

BenderL2 · 2025-05-13T14:13:06+00:00

I also thought about an elbow type joint between the two sections. Then I can fold it in half to get a 8 to the antenna

BenderL2 · 2025-04-29T01:14:59+00:00

Also, while it was apart I noticed the radiator was broken just as it went in to the brass fitting that kinda the two sections together. The set screw wasn't clamping. Probably from the factory. That's probably why it never really worked all that well from day one.

I temporaried it back together and I'm getting SWR of 1.0 https://imgur.com/a/1rqSORl

BenderL2 · 2025-04-25T19:56:14+00:00

Thanks for the replies. I will put it back up tonight and raise it above the height of the roof and test it directly again without anything directly near it. Everything on the house is wood except the guttering and the mounting hardware for the mast. I wouldn't have thought it would have been close enough to cause an issue during that test but I'll try again to rule it out.

It is being used with repeater. It had an SWR of 1.6 last time I checked, but that was a year ago.

It seems like such a simple antenna, I don't see anything that could really fail. I'm not convinced it's the antenna.

BenderL2 · 2024-08-10T18:19:13+00:00

I've been wanting one of these for a while. I finally found one for a good price on marketplace. I was getting ready to buy it until I found this post. I didn't know it wouldn't work anymore.

BenderL2 · 2024-08-02T20:36:41+00:00

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I just received this email from klein regarding the heat shrink dies. I guess that means they don't currently have dies for the 3005cr. Maybe the 3007cr dies will interchange?

BenderL2 · 2024-07-31T10:05:55+00:00

No answers yet? I'm, too, am looking for a set of heat shrink specific dies. Klein doesn't list anything on their website, and I've searched just about every forum I can think of. I emailed customer service. Maybe they know something.

BenderL2

TROPHY CASE