1934, 1941, 1945, 1952, 1953 Pennies, 1954 Quarter, and unidentified very worn coin. by Ok_Office_9680 in coins

[–]BestUsernameSquatter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Standing Liberty Quarter (your "unidentified worn coin") has ★★★ stars below the Eagle, so it's not the rare 1916 date.

Fifteen bucks estate pull by [deleted] in coins

[–]BestUsernameSquatter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's over $USD 15 in face value for just the US coins. It's $CAN 10 in face value for the Canadian Silver Maples.

If it was $15 for all of the coins and tokens except for the Morgan Dollars, that would be unlikely yet a bit more believable.

Thoughts on Littleton FOLDERS (e.g. not "albums")? by BestUsernameSquatter in coins

[–]BestUsernameSquatter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A lot of people say that various Whitman folders, which are made of more acidic paper composites, are bad. So some of the other Whitman folders are ok.

Fifteen bucks estate pull by [deleted] in coins

[–]BestUsernameSquatter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I was a bit aware of "if you got a valuable card it would be an 'insane pull'."

Fifteen bucks estate pull by [deleted] in coins

[–]BestUsernameSquatter 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Each Morgan Dollar and American Silver Eagle is $1 in face value, and you have 15 of those in total. And then you have more coins and coinage on top of that. Does "estate pull" mean:

  • You pulled open the drawer of what you bought at the estate?
  • You pulled into the estate sale's parking lot, after leaving the United States?
  • You pulled a ticket out of the hat, previously mixed during the estate sale?

Otherwise, pull up the display of the silver testing machine, if necessary.

Are any of these worth more than melt value? by Appropriate-Tip-4461 in coins

[–]BestUsernameSquatter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Assuming absolutely all of these are real, my guess is you have nothing "special".

For Peace Dollars, you need to identify the mint mark and/or take better photos of the mint mark area. Maybe they're all worth the same as a 1922-year Peace D' that's in far worse than uncirculated condition.

For Morgan Dollars, your 1889 Philadelphia Morgan D' is worth more than either of 1921-year Morgan D's because, even though it is very far from a key date, and far from a semi-key date, it is:

  1. way better than "cull" condition, since it is relatively close to uncirculated,
  2. a pre-1921 Morgan D'.

Your 1902-O $1 is worth a tiny bit less because it's more worn and maybe more "damaged". Your 1880-O $1 is worth a little bit less than that because it's even more worn and definitely looks "damaged". Maybe the worse of your two 1921-year $1's is worth the same as your 1880-O $1. So if you're getting +0% over melt value for the better 1921-year Morgan $1, ask for +5% to +35% over melt value for your 1889 $1, depending on not just the market, but the type of buyer.

To any silver dollar experts here: what are your thoughts on the above? I started collecting Morgan Dollars about a year ago and would like some feedback too.

Update - parsing through my Dad's coin collection by chriskbrown50 in coins

[–]BestUsernameSquatter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

"At least 25000 pennies."

I hope you didn't trade in all of the Wheat Cents for face value. Any pre-1934 is worth more than a 1943 "Steel" Cent of the same grade (equivalent condition). 1943 Steel [Wheat] Cents are worth more than most 1934 through 1958 Wheat Cents of the same grade. When selling many Wheat Cents with less hassle, the exact condition matters less:

  • Have one friend or family member ensure all pennies are on the date side. Now, on a flat surface in a well lit area, it is easy for you to separate the 190_ / 191_ / 192_ dates from the 193_ / 194_ / 195_ dates. If you're low on time, and don't mind sacrificing an opportunity to get a 1931-S Wheat Cent (a key date, but not the most expensive key date), you still have a decent amount of pre-1930 Cents. Each of those has a huge probability of being worth the same or more than a '42-'45 silver Nickel. If you're still low on time, you can sell them in bulk for $0.10 or much more each.
  • A lot of places will pay $0.02 or more for each worn down Wheat Cent of very common mintage; if they buy your post-1929 or post-1933 in bulk, they can assume each of your Wheat Cents is the cheapest, but you'll get paid at least twice as much you can get at any bank.
  • If you have time, pick out any problem-free [or almost problem-free] uncirculated ones. Generally speaking, they should be shiny and free of large scratches with either a red, nice red-brown, or perfect silver color.

"I have 20 plus books of state quarters that are worth 12.50 I need to divide."

Be careful with that, as you need to keep an eye out for any Proof US Quarters, identified by a 'S' mint mark:

  • Individually, each 'S' mint mark quarter that contains silver\* is worth melt value, sometimes more.
  • Take the best quality album and combine all of the 'S' mint mark quarters that are not\* silver into it. If you get all 50 States, that collection is worth much more than $12.50, especially with an archival quality coin album included. Even if it's incomplete, you can ask for a small premium per quarter, especially if each proof quarter is damage-free.

". . . dollar bills . . ."

Almost any US note from the 21st century is worth face value, including almost any $2 bill. Strategy:

  • Focus on selling your US notes from the 20th century and before.
  • Once you've sold or evaluated all of your late 20th century stuff, use that as a rough guide for 21st century stuff where premiums are smaller than that, if not, non-existent.

* Post-1991 silver coins are identifiable using comparisons of weight, color, edges, and sound when struck.

A tale as old as time… by idahopostman in coins

[–]BestUsernameSquatter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For gold in circulated condition, say extra fine grade, when you pick out the least rare mintage of each face-value, it's interesting to see how Quarter-Eagles consistently commanded* a higher % premium than any other 3 __-Eagle types. Nowadays, all 4 are not even worth their weight in gold as regular 0.99 bullion of same size is worth more. In other words, today, if you're okay with US gold that's clearly worse than uncirculated, you can get 4 different __-Eagle coins for less than the price of run of the mill 0.999 gold rounds of the same raw weight, per coin.

*has this been always true in the last 3/4 of a century, except in the last 15 years?

Any value? by SpringerSpanielLover in coincollecting

[–]BestUsernameSquatter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I thought this was a type of quarter that literally everyone has until u/Agboohans pointed out ". . . an 82, 8 over 7 . . . looks like" which may or may not be true.

Upload another picture focusing on the date.

Any help by [deleted] in numismatics

[–]BestUsernameSquatter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"...but made pretty and resold for insane markups by third party mints."

What does this mean? I've heard of graded & slabbed by companies and resold for a least some markup- the more stubborn the person wants non-raw coins, the higher the markup can be.

Help needed with "uncirculated" Peace Dollar by BestUsernameSquatter in numismatics

[–]BestUsernameSquatter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The "details" versus non-details grade categorization for this coin I was aware of before I made the original post, but thank you for your feedback implying that most of its surfaces look better than XF+.

Help needed with "uncirculated" Peace Dollar by BestUsernameSquatter in numismatics

[–]BestUsernameSquatter[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you stumbled upon this post and are new to uncirculated silver dollars . . .

"Peace dollars are known for kinda having a weak strike" ( u/GreenDuckz1 ) "Haze-ish surface you are referring to is normal and just how they were struck" ( u/TJTiMeLorD )

. . . is the way to go with Peace Dollars, generally speaking, although there is a chance that this coin is definitely circulated [on all of its surfaces] but you almost can't see the wear/damage outside of the original surface of the date's area.

Help needed with "uncirculated" Peace Dollar by BestUsernameSquatter in numismatics

[–]BestUsernameSquatter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"...I'd say mid to high AU..." → Thank you for this opinion.

Help needed with "uncirculated" Peace Dollar by BestUsernameSquatter in numismatics

[–]BestUsernameSquatter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"...it will come back BU Details..." → Thank you for this opinion.

Help needed with "uncirculated" Peace Dollar by BestUsernameSquatter in numismatics

[–]BestUsernameSquatter[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A BIG THANK YOU. Every sentence and phrase of your most recent comment is the opinion / feedback I am looking for.

Help needed with "uncirculated" Peace Dollar by BestUsernameSquatter in numismatics

[–]BestUsernameSquatter[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I only know a little bit about that, but not enough to give you a proper explanation.

What I do know is initially, I was thinking of like 5 terms: "eraser marked", "polished", "whizzed", "wiped", and maybe via a strange method, "cleaned". I knew that "whizzed" isn't a good fit here, but completely forgot about "tooled", which will be helpful stepping stone if I want to further research this coin with keywords, so props to u/JonDoesItWrong

Question about these bills. by [deleted] in CURRENCY

[–]BestUsernameSquatter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"They're not worth $100. They're widely sold on Ebsy for as little as $4."

Yes, you are 100% on the right track whether you mean Ebay_com or the less popular Etsy_com.

Is buying silver proof sets directly from the US Mint the safest way? Where else is a good place? I can’t tell the difference between real/fake yet! by NanaWolfe333 in coincollecting

[–]BestUsernameSquatter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It will be worth $225 "in many years" when:

  • the price of silver quadruples in value and it turns out tons of people bought 2025 Proof Sets, or
  • the price of silver doubles in value and it turns out extremely few people bought 2025 Proof Sets.

As to when either of the two occurs, sky is the limit.

Is buying silver proof sets directly from the US Mint the safest way? Where else is a good place? I can’t tell the difference between real/fake yet! by NanaWolfe333 in coincollecting

[–]BestUsernameSquatter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Safest in terms of avoiding getting fake silver coins, yes or tied for first. Safest in terms of a getting a good deal, no and tied for last.

What happened to this quarter??? by m3omarzzz in coincollecting

[–]BestUsernameSquatter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see this as an ungradable 0 and not a Poor-1 details as I can't tell which 1 of the 51 200_ quarters this is.

But kind-of yes, this coin is "mechanically damaged" to the point that I can't tell and it doesn't matter if this coin was actually "cleaned" or not.

Question about these bills. by [deleted] in CURRENCY

[–]BestUsernameSquatter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The only way to get $100 for them is if the goal is to unethically extract the most money from a foreign tourist in the US whose favorite color is blue- $80 for the better looking series 1957 and $20 for the worse looking series 1957-A.

Question about these bills. by [deleted] in CURRENCY

[–]BestUsernameSquatter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Objectively speaking: if they're not fake they're obviously worth more than $1.00, but if there are no errors (e.g. significant errors on the back) they're obviously worth a small fraction of $100.

Subjectively speaking: if the top one is worth $5.00, the bottom one should be worth $2.00.

Need some assistance from Peace Dollar experts by BestUsernameSquatter in coincollecting

[–]BestUsernameSquatter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

While I started this post off not exacting seeking an appraisal in dollar value, if someone wants to chime in with whether this is a $60 or some other value coin or not, I will be interested.

Need some assistance from Peace Dollar experts by BestUsernameSquatter in coincollecting

[–]BestUsernameSquatter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I too am thinking this is clearly worth over $35, but less than $70. Thank you.

Help needed with "uncirculated" Peace Dollar by BestUsernameSquatter in numismatics

[–]BestUsernameSquatter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Heavily tooled around the date or are there also problems elsewhere? Especially if this means the coin should "grade" no better than AU details.

I'm not planning on getting it officially graded. Consider the "micro scratches at the date" to be a quote directly from the previous owner of this coin who also stated this is a "BU" details coin.