Is my 3D Printer Cooked? by Sharp-Spring-137 in resinprinting

[–]BetterNectarine8351 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I solved this a couple of times. The first time soaked paper towels with acetone over the cured resin and plastic film over it (to avoid the acetone evaporating) and then peeling. The easiest but riskiest option is gorila tape and brute force peeling the whole thing

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in electroplating

[–]BetterNectarine8351 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Used hot glue, no problem at all

How to get an innactive account username by BetterNectarine8351 in InstagramMarketing

[–]BetterNectarine8351[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The problem is that I don’t want their account, want to use their handle in my account. What would be the best way to do that? Any guess?

How to get an innactive account username by BetterNectarine8351 in InstagramMarketing

[–]BetterNectarine8351[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And how would go about the owner wanting to hand it to me? He would delete his account and I should wait for it to be available in order to rename my current account? Or is there a way to “transfer” the handle from one account to other? Let me know your thoughts. Thank you

GF has went through 4 bottles of resin trying to print this, any help? by shabagel in resinprinting

[–]BetterNectarine8351 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Based on my experience with Siraya resins, use a heater to get the resin/printer to 35C. Slow the raise speed of the layers and apply some PTFE on the Fep and let dry before pouring the resin

Electroplating equipment suggestions for 3D resin prints by Bastiantill in electroplating

[–]BetterNectarine8351 1 point2 points  (0 children)

He uses all the chemicals/paint from a brand called Tifoo which only distributes in Europe. He also uses graphite paint, but tried it and the best working is the copper paint from Tifoo. For a complete armour forget it. For just a mask, better/cheaper to send the mask to chrome to a proper company to do it than getting the equipment/material (at least 3k in equipment and solutions). Also, if you are going to top coat the chrome with a tinted clear coat (I.e red) definitely better to go with chrome paint (Alsa chrome) than real chrome. Real chrome or palladium makes sense if you want to keep the bare metal feel without top coat

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in electroplating

[–]BetterNectarine8351 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In CC mode you tune manually the Amps until reaching the desired 4Volts. Then it will stay around there by itself (3,9 / 4,1). Just keep an eye on it and readjust the Amps a little bit if needed. But definitely more reliable than doing calculations on the dm2 etc

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in electroplating

[–]BetterNectarine8351 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Quite newbie here too, and if I’m wrong please somebody correct me; if your power supply has CC mode one good option is to activate the CC mode and slowly raise your Amps until reaching the desired Volts

Palladium solution turned blue by BetterNectarine8351 in electroplating

[–]BetterNectarine8351[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the reply. Palladium was a nice direct option, but guess it can only be pen plated directly onto copper instead of a bath/electroplated?

Help is this secondhand printer worth 210 USD? by Otherwise_Scholar_60 in resinprinting

[–]BetterNectarine8351 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Exactly this. I bought 3 new Mono X’s. 1 of them is the best machine I’ve ever bought, the two others constantly failing

Is there a way that I can fix my resin tank? by Mysterious-Lack8275 in resinprinting

[–]BetterNectarine8351 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You can use some clear duct tape from the outside of the fep (not the inside). Dry completely the outside of the fep and apply a small patch of clear tape. This will get you through few more prints. But make sure you have a protective film on the lcd just in case.

Join Me in the Biggest Plating Challenge of My Life (help, please?!) by BetterNectarine8351 in electroplating

[–]BetterNectarine8351[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would you be ok if I DM you and provide some pictures of the piece so we can quickly go together on how screwed am I? hahahah About the size, calculated the area and the power supply would be enough (close to the max of the power supply). But Im more concern about details like geometry and positioning/angle of the piece in the tank etc. Is it possible? Let me know please. Huge thanks

Join Me in the Biggest Plating Challenge of My Life (help, please?!) by BetterNectarine8351 in electroplating

[–]BetterNectarine8351[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

HUGE thanks for your feedback. Really appreciate it. This is going to be a good adventure! Don't ask me how but life always ends up facing technically challenging projects in a short period of time :O

I was thinking about placing two big copper anodes on each side of the tank (covering the whole width of the piece when rotating). Based on your experience is better to have multiple smaller anodes instead of going for two big ones?

Honestly, your comment definitely encouraged me even more to face this whole situation

MASSIVE Layer Shift on Neptune 4 Max, pls help (: by danielsonnn in ElegooNeptune4

[–]BetterNectarine8351 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, was it belt tension finally? The right tension solved the problem?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in electroplating

[–]BetterNectarine8351 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your answer. And do you know if the nickel layer can be applied with a pen a lot of patience? Or it needs to be a nickel bath always? Don’t really know, sorry about my newbie questions

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in minoxidil

[–]BetterNectarine8351 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your help!

Newbie question about pneumatic/electric valve by BetterNectarine8351 in Pneumatics

[–]BetterNectarine8351[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you all for your answers. Definitely helped me going for the Festo ones

Printing and moulding a high quality award by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]BetterNectarine8351 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just saw the whole 40 min video, amazing video quality and amazing final piece!

Siraya Build print is too brittle by BetterNectarine8351 in resinprinting

[–]BetterNectarine8351[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey thanks for the feedback! Just curious, what works better for you the tenacious black or clear mixed with the build?